Topic: 1967-up Black (Dark Charcoal) interior paint question

[travnemi]

Hey there,
   This is probably a dumb question. Is the black interior paint code for a 1967 mustang December 1966 San Jose build; Ditzler PPG 32586 Charcoal Black Poly? I was told the poly had metallic in the paint, so I wanted to make sure this is correct for the car.

Thanks for all your help,

Travis

[J_Speegle]

The color (you'll find it listed in multiple threads this way) is often referred to as Dark Charcoal Metallic

And the paint code PPG/Ditzler #32586  is the one shown in period paint chip charts through the rest of the 60's for the Dark Charcoal interior color. That code may or not work any longer depending on where your located.

Yes there is very small flakes of metallic in the original product

[travnemi]

Thanks Jeff,

   I just got a little nervous about painting my interior that color. I didn't want the inside looking like a bass boat. But if that the way the black interiors where, I'll hand over this pain code to the painter.

Thanks,
Travis

[J_Speegle]

I just got a little nervous about painting my interior that color. I didn't want the inside looking like a bass boat.

LOL - nope not metal flake like bass boats nor Imron paints jobs of the 80's with the giant flakes  - metallic. Almost not noticeable (like the gray tone) except from the right angle and light.  In the old guns always use to through in a new 1/2" nut to keep the metal flake stirred up in the reservoir

But if that the way the black interiors where, I'll hand over this pain code to the painter.

Think you'll want to share with him the starting with a thin base of black paint before the charcoal as mentioned in the other threads here on the site

[travnemi]

Thanks Jeff

[brennancarey]

Hi

I managed to get the formulation for Dark Charcoal Metallic 32586 for those needing. 
My concern is its a Base Coat and my paint shop tells me I should apply matte clear over it.

Thoughts about this???

[CharlesTurner]

Interior paint should be a satin/eggshell finish.  If it's painted gloss, it will probably look like a fancy bass boat paint job, lol.

[RocketScientist]

Normally metallic paints are designed to be COB (clear over base) and so need a clear coat to seal and protect the base paint. It is also a good way to get the gloss level right.

However, looking at your paint mix it has the matting base as part of the formulation and looks to be made up as a single coat system. In this case you shouldn't need a clear coat. I would suggest test painting a panel and seeing what the color is like and go from there.

[brennancarey]

Normally metallic paints are designed to be COB (clear over base) and so need a clear coat to seal and protect the base paint. It is also a good way to get the gloss level right.

However, looking at your paint mix it has the matting base as part of the formulation and looks to be made up as a single coat system. In this case you shouldn't need a clear coat. I would suggest test painting a panel and seeing what the color is like and go from there.

Yes thats what I thought in that it has a matt base and why then would it need a clear.. however if just the base is required I wonder if the base requires hardener? (because usually base you dont apply hardener into it)

[RocketScientist]

Yes, if you plan to clear coat the base, then the base doesn't need the matt in it. Normally in these cases, you alter the gloss level of the clear to give you the finish you want and so to put it in the base becomes a waste. For example, if you apply a gloss clear over a satin base then the paint will become glossy.

I think colors are  made up to be able to go into either a single or two component systems and so it does not necessarily need a hardener. A paint shop should be able to make the required adjustments to make it fit either paint types. 

[brennancarey]

Yes, if you plan to clear coat the base, then the base doesn't need the matt in it. Normally in these cases, you alter the gloss level of the clear to give you the finish you want and so to put it in the base becomes a waste. For example, if you apply a gloss clear over a satin base then the paint will become glossy.

I think colors are  made up to be able to go into either a single or two component systems and so it does not necessarily need a hardener. A paint shop should be able to make the required adjustments to make it fit either paint types.

Hi RocketScientest... Are you sure, because correct me if I am wrong but I understand that base is always matt and then the clear makes it gloss or matt if you req. The base is always meant to have a clear to protect it and not developed to have any hardener. Sorry for questioning but its a bit confusing...?

[RocketScientist]

You are correct in that when using a clear over the base, the base is always a matt finish. I suspect it is because that type finish of allows the metallic flakes in the paint to lie evenly to give you a nice finish.  If you have ever tried or seen a metallic painted as a top-coat gloss you'll understand why because if you aren't careful the paint dries at different rates and you can see color variations in the paint. Look next time at a car show and you'll pick the differences.

The matt base is always meant to have a clear over the top. However, the paint is a matt because it has been designed like that and they wouldn't do it by specifically adding a flattening base. The difference is that when you want to apply a clear coat (which is normally glossy) you add the flattening base to give it that satin look.

That is the clear over base (COB) system. You can also paint it as a single coat. In that case, you would take a normal top-coat paint (which would be glossy) and add the flattening base to make it satin.

The question of hardeners is different and it comes down to personal paint choice and what is available. The 2K paint systems (with a hardener) will  give you a tougher paint and the 1K (non hardener) paint systems are less durable but makes painting simpler. The base can come in either 2K or 1K versions as does the clear coats. The rule of thumb is that if you choose a 2K base then you have to use a 2K clear coat and that is the same as the 1K systems. You aren't meant to mix them up. If you put a 2K clear which is hard, over a 1K base (which is softer) you can get cracking as the clear can't move and flex with the base coat. Though it's not recommended, you can cheat and put a 1K clear over a 2K base as the clear is the softer of the two. The down-side is that the 1K clear is not as durable as a 2K clear but that is not much of a problem of a low-use Mustang.

I hope this helps a bit.

[brennancarey]

Ok thks... So I will try painting a sample with the matt base without any hardener or clear over it as thats what I am understanding needs to happen here and see how it looks. Problem is I dont really know what its "supposed to look like".... 

[CharlesTurner]

It should be a satin/eggshell finish.  Just the slightest bit of gloss.

In my opinion, single stage is the way to go, flattened correctly, but others have achieved the same appearance with base/clear.