Topic: Replacement for PPG DAR 9000

[SFR950]

Hello Everyone:

I'm new to the forum and in need of some help.  I am re-painting the engine compartment of my '66 GT Convertible, San Jose built car with a spray gun.  I would like to use PPG products and understand that the DAR 9000 was an accurate match if used with 25%-30% DX 265.  The problem is that PPG does not seem to make the DAR 9000 anymore.  Does anyone know of a comparable PPG product?  I have a message in for PPG as well, but would like to hear from anyone who has experience with this.

Thank you.

Shawn

[jwc66k]

Shawn,
Welcome to the forum. Your engine compartment paint question is a reflection of availability, plant and process. The simple answer is there is a lot of variation in the paint used there. Almost any semi-gloss black will be within the specified range of Ford requirements. I use a satin black rattle can. All the cars I've assisted on using that can stuff have not had a rejection by other MCA judges, some have received a Gold. My first recommendation is to not over-restore your car. My second recommendation is to have fun.
Jim

[CharlesTurner]

Try DCC Concept in black, it's a single stage urethane.  9000 is the base black, 9300 is deeper black.  Also, would suggest trying SU4985 universal matting agent instead of DX265, it's a nice flattener that won't make the paint look chalky.

While some prefer spraying with rattle cans, that's perfectly fine, but a catalyzed paint will usually be a more durable finish, resistant to oils, chemicals, water spots and easier to clean.

[SFR950]

Hello Jim and Charles:

Thank you both for the information and your insights.  They are much appreciated and I will consider both.  For this project, I am using a spray gun, but I have seen incredible results with rattle cans.

Cheers!

[1967 eight barrel]

The 9000 is still made. I just had a quart made less than three months ago. It's not under PPG label, and It's not single stage anymore. I used the Omni Plus MPB and a product called Vintage Clearcoat. Part no: 3820. Use the 4:1 ratio of paint to activator for semi-gloss. ( The amount of reducer allows the clear to be semi-gloss to dead flat depending on the ratio. The 4:1 mixture Is closer to 75% gloss. Looks factory, much more durable and fade and heat resistant.
The Omni simply uses a urethane reducer at 1:1. Don't mind the dust and the cat hair...
                                                                                                 -Keith

[SFR950]

Hi Keith:

Thank you for your feedback and great photo.  Your engine compartment looks fantastic and that is the factory original look that I am striving for.  I appreciate your help.

Shawn.

[Bob Gaines]

The 9000 is still made. I just had a quart made less than three months ago. It's not under PPG label, and It's not single stage anymore. I used the Omni Plus MPB and a product called Vintage Clearcoat. Part no: 3820. Use the 4:1 ratio of paint to activator for semi-gloss. ( The amount of reducer allows the clear to be semi-gloss to dead flat depending on the ratio. The 4:1 mixture Is closer to 75% gloss. Looks factory, much more durable and fade and heat resistant.
The Omni simply uses a urethane reducer at 1:1. Don't mind the dust and the cat hair...
                                                                                                 -Keith

FYI if you want the assemblyline look there needs to be sound deadner/sealer on the firewall like the factory. I am only commenting because maybe you don't want the original look for your own personal reasons but others reading who do might get the wrong idea when looking at the otherwise historically correct picture that the firewall is supposed to be as smooth as a baby's behind without the assemblyline sound deadner /sealer. Looks like the restoration is proceeding nicely.

[1967 eight barrel]

Bob Gaines:
There wasn't an overabundance of it on the firewall or the engine compartment, however I did have a pretty good splatter around the heater hoses and the blower motor. Also noted when I disassembled was the left side, where the splash shields were had an abundance of undercoat, the passenger side is light.
Thank you for the compliments, Bob. My first time and really no help. I stumbled onto the two websites well after I was into this restoration.
I will be adding splatter by the blower motor and the heater hoses. when the box is back under the dash.

                                                                                                                    -Keith

[J_Speegle]

Keith while we're looking at your example you posted and for the benefit for others that might view this thread in the future, the change over point/transision between the engine compartment black and the body color isn't consistent with other original cars and would have required taping off the upper panel by workers.  For others seek out the original unrestored picture threads on this site. Any of the 65-68 San Jose threads will provide examples.

Easy fix with a clean rag and a little additional black paint - good time to  catch it, before allot more gets installed

[1967 eight barrel]

Jeff, where did I screw up at with the black... I should fix it soon, before the driveline jumps back in..

                                                                                                                 -Keith

[J_Speegle]

Jeff, where did I screw up at with the black... I should fix it soon, before the driveline jumps back in..

Where the black goes over the body color along the top of the inner fender panel on both sides. You masked off the whole small short transition panel

Examples of how San Jose painters did it the "edge" is often described as a "soft" edge as if they placed a rag or towel along the edge. Many will backwards mask (softly bending  wide masking tape back over itself or using foam tape to reproduce the edge

Picture A7 in this thread

http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=11910.msg71973#msg71973

[1967 eight barrel]

Jeff,
Okay, that makes sense. I did indeed mask to the transition.

                                                                  -Keith

                       

[SFR950]

Thank you all for the great information.  Bob, I took a lot of photos of the slight undercoat overspray on the firewall and will re-create it.  Jeff, thank you for your comment about the black/body color line and your additional details.  These are all very much appreciated...

Shawn

[Raven R Code]

So what would be an accurate engine compartment paint for a metuchen car in 1969? I have a case of Krylon 1613 rattle can but body guy wants to spray it with a gun.

[67gtasanjose]

Check this thread out:
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=13601.msg84000#msg84000

Ditzler DDL 9423 low gloss was available earlier this summer through my local PPG store. I bought 3 of the 6 they put in stock, special ordered from the factory like B Perkins said...and I'm reasonably sure I can get the 3 others if anyone wants them just show me the $$$money$$$