Topic: Door Sound Deadener, sealer, paint and process

[brennancarey]

Hi

67 FB Dearborn car. Dec 66 Build date.

Been searching on how to restore in the internal sheet metal of my doors. I have stripped and blasted everything so now need to apply primer, seam sealers and sound deadener and paint to the internal cavity sections of the doors.

Any help on the process would be appreciated as I dont seem to find anything of the internal areas of doors on any year mustang around here?

Thks!
brennan

[brennancarey]

Hi

can anyone help me and shed some light on this pls?  much appreciated 

[jwc66k]

I'll try. First, I abhor rust. If you've stripped the inside, prime it with a dark flat paint, an anti-rust type preferred, first. For a sealer, try Eastwood  http://www.eastwood.com/ and their sealer http://www.eastwood.com/flex-263-sound-deadener-and-sealer-16-oz-aero.html I'm not recommending this sealer as I've used it a long time ago and there may be better but I remember it working well.
Jim

[J_Speegle]

Most places don't go really in depth restoring the inside of the doors. if you strip the doors the sealer placed between the outer inner skin can't be replaced without disassembling the door. The sealant really isn't visible inside or from the exterior just was sandwiched between the two panels 

Also the sound deadener was applied when the outer skin was not attached so reproducing that surface can be very difficult if you want it ti look exactly like what it did originally

Of course originally the interior of the door didn't get much paint to the back side and very little to the ends and bottom surfaces and little if any to the inner structure.

On a 67 the interior paint goes on before the exterior then was masked off and the car painted - of course the door was attached to the unibody while this was all done.

[JKWilson]

Also the sound deadener was applied when the outer skin was not attached so reproducing that surface can be very difficult if you want it ti look exactly like what it did originally

Jeff is this statement in reference to '67 and/or plant specific? The reason I ask is because for both Dearborn and Metuchen the sound deadener was applied after the outer skin was attached. There is a horizontal reinforcing bar that has a black felt material (almost like roofing felt), stapled on the outside of it to prevent direct metal to metal contact between it and the door skin. A coating of sound deadener was then applied over all of it.

[J_Speegle]

Jeff is this statement in reference to '67 and/or plant specific? .......

Believe your looking at a completely different year.

For the discussion a couple of pictures - sorry only has a 68 door at home so had to rely on pictures taken





Notice in the closeups that the sound deadener goes behind the horizontal beam and no sound deadener on the beam

[brennancarey]

Thanks guys, looking at my doors again I can see that there was no sealer or sound deadener on the inside of the horizontal beam but on the outside or edge against the door skin it had like a rubber/felt layer attached with staples  that prevents it from rubbing against the door.

So now what i have done is had the door sandblasted, you can see where the staples went and where the rubber felt went.
I then painted it with SPI epoxy.

My questions are :

1. What colour should I paint the interior of the door and skin over the light grey epoxy to look as per factory ? Matte black or?
2. I will apply spectrum sludge sound deadener onto the inner door skin as per the layout on my old skin which was just in the middle section correct ?
3. What should I paint over the sludge and colour if anything (see pt 4) ?
4. I am assuming that overspray from inner door inner colour (which is black on my car) would just have overspray that will go onto the inner door and skin through the gaps and cover the sludge and thats it ?
5. Door  Flanges need to be seam sealed BEFORE skin is attached and bent on?
6. Any suggestions on what to use on the horizontal beam to attach it to the skin and should I apply the staples back as nobody will ever see this ?


Thanks guys !

[J_Speegle]

My questions are :

1. What colour should I paint the interior of the door and skin over the light grey epoxy to look as per factory ? Matte black or?

Since no one will ever see it its best IMHO to get a good coat of paint to reduce the chances of future rust developing. a semi-gloss black would be just fine

2. I will apply spectrum sludge sound deadener onto the inner door skin as per the layout on my old skin which was just in the middle section correct ?

That is what I see in the originals

3. What should I paint over the sludge and colour if anything (see pt 4) ?

You can wait to apply the semi-gloss black to the interior of the door until after this step so that everything gets covered or simply just apply a second coat

4. I am assuming that overspray from inner door inner colour (which is black on my car) would just have overspray that will go onto the inner door and skin through the gaps and cover the sludge and thats it ?

Yes so that the semi-gloss black applied earlier will all just blend in and if you do the mask and the open center the exterior spray will just flow into and over some of the surfaces lightly

5. Door  Flanges need to be seam sealed BEFORE skin is attached and bent on?

That appears to be the factories practice at the time

6. Any suggestions on what to use on the horizontal beam to attach it to the skin and should I apply the staples back as nobody will ever see this ?

I would use some structural adhesive to service a similar purpose that they used to bond the outer skin of the hood and trunk lid to the inner structure. Only much stronger

[brennancarey]

Thanks so much Jeff!  I will post some pics of the progress and end result.

[brennancarey]

This is what my door skin looked like when I took it off. the areas where sound deadener is a bit thin is where the blaster took it off so I am thinking it should be 1 pass from below the door crease line.

I used a product called Teroson 9320 which is a sound deadener. Applied it with a brush and a sponge and mineral spirits to keep brush wet in a upward movement. I thought nobody is ever going to see this so its a good place to practise before I hit the wheelhouses, quarters etc.

I tried to replicate the heavy areas like they did and also the step down pass at the bottom.. 
Next I will paint it all in Satin black I am sure once painted I will be close..

Any tips or suggestions welcome ??

[J_Speegle]

This is what my door skin looked like when I took it off. the areas where sound deadener is a bit thin is where the blaster took it off so I am thinking it should be 1 pass from below the door crease line.

I used a product called Teroson 9320 which is a sound deadener. Applied it with a brush and a sponge and mineral spirits to keep brush wet in a upward movement. I thought nobody is ever going to see this so its a good place to practise before I hit the wheelhouses, quarters etc.

If you  have only done one so far (or you have some extra material to play/practice with) I would apply it while the part was vertical to see how the sound deadener reacts to the difference and if you can build in a sag or see if it effects the texture or curls

Just a thought

Just remember when you do the exposed area you'll have to figure out how to make the edges looked sprayed - same issue I had with the Sludge I use

[kammertime]

Jeff,
I had the doors on my 69 Boss dipped so all sound deadener was removed. Will the "sludge" product produce something close to the original "sound" when the door is closed as opposed to the hollow, tinny sound I have now ?

Thanks,
John

[J_Speegle]

Jeff,
I had the doors on my 69 Boss dipped so all sound deadener was removed. Will the "sludge" product produce something close to the original "sound" when the door is closed as opposed to the hollow, tinny sound I have now ?

Believe it could and might even make them quieter than factory depending on how much you apply and how much surface the product is applied over. The product is designed for that purpose - we've just found it works for us to replicate the factory look