Topic: Cleaning Steel Gas and Brake Lines

[Mark69Sportsroof]

Hey Everyone,

I have started the tear down and restoration process on the 68 Mercury Parklane Convertible.  The car has been sitting in a local junk yard since 1984.  I have changed the all the key engine components to get it started.  I did get it to run for 30 seconds before I turn it off.  I used a 5 gallon gas can to feed the
fuel pump directly.

What is the best way to clean the gas and brake metal lines?  I want to clean them while they are still on the vehicle.  I am replacing all the rubber lines.

Thanks Mark 

[J_Speegle]

Guess I would start with what is on the surface right now. Undercoating, paint, grime ....?

Start with some weak simple green type cleaner and work from there. Recently cleaned some - but just a very little grime build up after all these years plus a little overspray from a repaint so had to progress to some enamel reducer to take it off. Finished off with some protective oil and hopefully its protected for a few more years

Just what worked for me

[carlite65]

Hey Everyone,

I have started the tear down and restoration process on the 68 Mercury Parklane Convertible.  The car has been sitting in a local junk yard since 1984.  I have changed the all the key engine components to get it started.  I did get it to run for 30 seconds before I turn it off.  I used a 5 gallon gas can to feed the
fuel pump directly.

What is the best way to clean the gas and brake metal lines?  I want to clean them while they are still on the vehicle.  I am replacing all the rubber lines.

Thanks Mark

are you wanting to clean the inside or outside??

[Mark69Sportsroof]

Thanks Jeff and Carlite65.  I have undercoating on them and the car still has the original paint.  Also looking how to clean the inside of the lines.  Sorry for the confusion.

[Bob Gaines]

Thanks Jeff and Carlite65.  I have undercoating on them and the car still has the original paint.  Also looking how to clean the inside of the lines.  Sorry for the confusion.

If you are not going to take off the undercoating why would you want to clean the outside of the brake and fuel lines? That would make them stand out as different in not a good way . The dealer wouldn't have taped the lines off when applying undercoating. Cleaning the inside makes sense in any circumstances . Cleaning the outside only makes sense if taking all of the undercoating off.

[Mark69Sportsroof]

Bob your right on cleaning the outside gas/brakes lines.  So what is the best way to clean the inside of the lines?

Thanks Mark

[Bob Gaines]

Bob your right on cleaning the outside gas/brakes lines.  So what is the best way to clean the inside of the lines?

Thanks Mark

Mark, you can force (spray with the long thin tube) some carburetor cleaner in the fuel lines and blow out with compressed air . A little harder with lacquer thinner but you can use that too.. Brake lines are a little easier relatively speaking because you can flush lacquer thinner through the system  using the master cylinder (assuming it works. Of course it is best to do this before replacing master and wheel cylinders because the lacquer thinner will expand the rubber and require these thing to be replaced but you typically do that when going through a system anyway. After you get the lines clean with the lacquer thinner . Drain master wipe out and and put in brake fluid . Dot 5 silicone will not allow rust to form in the system as much and for pleasure driving it is more then fine. If it leaks it will not eat the paint ether which is why it is the preferred choice for show cars. If you decide to go the silicone route you need it is best to change all of the rubber lines ,wheel cylinder seals ,master etc. since the silicone is not compatible with regular brake fluid. For hard racing or often spirited driving stay with regular Ford brake fluid . It has a very high boiling point and many track cars use it. I will put in a brake fluid tinted to help determine when i get the lacquer thinner all out then drain the master again and wipe it clean before putting in the Ford fluid that is more clear and once it turns clear you know it is all fresh. Of course you bleed the system the same order you normally bleed the brakes with the farthest point bled first and then work your way back.  you can of course not be as aggressive and skip the lacquer thinner portion and just flush with fresh brake fluid. Kind of involved but the way I do it when the need arises. If the lines are too clogged then you have to replace them . I hope that is not your case.   I hope this gives you some ideas.   

[Mark69Sportsroof]

Thanks Bob.  That's what I was looking for.  I have heard some of the TV reality shows talk about flushing out the gas and/or the brakes lines.  They never describe the process.  I had a local parts store manager tell me that he uses charcoal starting fluid.  I am hoping to save the originals and save a few dollars.

Thanks Mark