Topic: 67 390 - engine painting

[preaction]

So I pulled my 67 390 to update its appearance and add some small parts that need to put on the engine. As Im removing all of the brackets and other parts to prep for a repaint with Ditzler DAR paint (this type of paint is a first for me) I am seeing that my 12 year old rattle can paint job has held up pretty good for a couple of cans of spray paint. I would say that 85% of it is still in place and holding on well. I know I have to remove all loose paint and clean the engine very well in prepping for the new paint but Im not sure if I need to remove all traces of paint for the Ditzler to work its best, has anyone run into this situation ?

[Bob Gaines]

So I pulled my 67 390 to update its appearance and add some small parts that need to put on the engine. As Im removing all of the brackets and other parts to prep for a repaint with Ditzler DAR paint (this type of paint is a first for me) I am seeing that my 12 year old rattle can paint job has held up pretty good for a couple of cans of spray paint. I would say that 85% of it is still in place and holding on well. I know I have to remove all loose paint and clean the engine very well in prepping for the new paint but Im not sure if I need to remove all traces of paint for the Ditzler to work its best, has anyone run into this situation ?

You don't have to take it all off and you can paint over old cured paint butttttt a word to the wise .The top surface is only as good as the surface underneath it. I all ways strip the old paint off. I dont 't want to but it is the best way. I typically have the engine in a well ventilated room and with the air spray gun or airless etc.filled with lacquor thinner and spray the block and scrub with a stiff plastic brush scrub the block . Rinse by spraying the thinner. I keep doing this until it is all off or at least 95% off. It comes off pretty easy. FYI the Ditzler product (I use PPG) will not come off that way I bet. Commercial catalyzed paints are substantially more durable then rattle can paints. A little overkill unless on a driver car that gets dirty and has to be cleaned occasionally . The rattle can paint fades easily when exposed to most chemicals (why it comes off easy with thinner)but the catalyzed paints will not.

[preaction]

Thanks Bob, I am using PPG seems they throw Ditzler in there. I believe I will be removing all of the current paint. The PPG formula is the one I got here and interestingly as I was looking at some old articles I have saved over the years I saw one about paint it was from 1991 and it was from Bob Perkins written in mustang monthly ? and it listed the same formula 25 years ago.

[Bob Gaines]

Thanks Bob, I am using PPG seems they throw Ditzler in there. I believe I will be removing all of the current paint. The PPG formula is the one I got here and interestingly as I was looking at some old articles I have saved over the years I saw one about paint it was from 1991 and it was from Bob Perkins written in mustang monthly ? and it listed the same formula 25 years ago.

It comes in a premixed can from PPG or used to . Yes it has been the preferred method for decades now.A little expensive if you just have to do one engine but worth it IMO. be sure to use the flattener because it is too shiny (compared to assemblyline) out of the can.

[CharlesTurner]

Consider using an epoxy primer on the bare metal, just a light coat.  It will help with adhesion (so long as you topcoat within 48 hours according to the data sheet).

Preparation is extremely important. 

[67gtasanjose]

Along the "preparation" line of thinking, and as much a pain in the arce as it is, I agree that anything under the paint will ultimately affect the finish. (might hurt less to have a tube of 'Preparation H' handy  )
*greese
*old paint
*RTV sealants (silicone based)
*RUST
*oil (from assembly lube and/or hands)
*temperature of the engine casting (or parts)

I am sure there are many things more tings to consider but with a whole lot of effort, comes a whole lot of reward.

[rockhouse66]

I was unable to find this paint from PPG, other than possibly eBay, so ended up using TPC Global's version of the same stuff.  FYI.

[preaction]

I did find it just one state away but the seller did call it old technology.

[Bob Gaines]

I was unable to find this paint from PPG, other than possibly eBay, so ended up using TPC Global's version of the same stuff.  FYI.

It can be mixed from qt size up by a formula . So any PPG store should be able to mix the formula.

[J_Speegle]

It can be mixed from qt size up by a formula . So any PPG store should be able to mix the formula.

That is what I choose to do last year. Did have to travel into a different district to get it but not a big deal.

[preaction]

Does a primer need to be used when painting an engine with the PPG DAR paint ?

[1967 eight barrel]

You must be in OZ... I mean Commiefornia. Few places have the ridiculous regulations that they do. Sad you have to travel to get something of that nature. Yes, I would prime your engine.

                                                                                           -Keith

[Bob Gaines]

Does a primer need to be used when painting an engine with the PPG DAR paint ?

I and others have painted the ppg engine paint without using a primer and it has held up as durable . It is strong as nails without primer (on a spotless clean metal block) but I know of others who swear by using the primer.

[Smokey 15]

 I agree on the primer.  After all the stripping of old paint, etc. I wash the engine with Simple Green and make sure it is completely dry before painting.

[J_Speegle]

Does a primer need to be used when painting an engine with the PPG DAR paint ?

I haven't primed engines in the past and have been happy with the results. Hard enough to get the paint to look like it was originally applied. Often restorers put on allot of paint and with primer IMHO it just adds to the "dipped in plastic look" of some paint jobs