Topic: 1967 parking brake primary cable bracket ( At floorboard)

[1967 eight barrel]

I purchased a so-called concourse correct brake cable ( inside lever to outside equalizer lever) The bracket that bolts to the floorboard in the engine compartment with two bolts is a silver zinc. I seem to remember the originals being painted black.
Can anyone confirm what finish should be on the mounting bracket?

                                                                                    -Keith

[67gta289]

My observation is bare steel.

[Bob Gaines]

My observation is bare steel.

+1 . Also the armored cable covering is bare steel including the cable. Many repros I have seen had everything plated zinc silver.

[67gta289]

Plus mine has the FoMoCo in the rectangular box, not the FoMoCo script in the oval.  I have each type on hand, but my Dec 66 SJ was the rectangular type

[Bob Gaines]

Plus mine has the FoMoCo in the rectangular box, not the FoMoCo script in the oval.  I have each type on hand, but my Dec 66 SJ was the rectangular type

I suspect the repros will have nether.

[67gta289]

I agree. Reference pic attached

[1967 eight barrel]

Thank you again, gentlemen. I didn't want to install it and have to take it back off. By the way, it appears the OE Ford housing is stainless. The Reproductions are as you suspected, zinc plated.

                                                                                          -Keith

[Bob Gaines]

Thank you again, gentlemen. I didn't want to install it and have to take it back off. By the way, it appears the OE Ford housing is stainless. The Reproductions are as you suspected, zinc plated.

                                                                                          -Keith

The OE Ford housing is not stainless. A magnate will stick to it. They rust and seize up. It would have been nice if they were stainless .

[1967 eight barrel]

Bob, true. However, there are different alloys of stainless. The trim that goes around the doors and windows are stainless, yet a magnet sticks to them. However, I can only blame myself for the issue with the Ford cable, as It got full of glass bead and I can't clear it out. As you know, the emergency brake is already difficult to set, and the vehicle wouldn't hold. I am replacing them all. I just restored the hardware and blued them.
Thanks!

[Bob Gaines]

Bob, true. However, there are different alloys of stainless. The trim that goes around the doors and windows are stainless, yet a magnet sticks to them. However, I can only blame myself for the issue with the Ford cable, as It got full of glass bead and I can't clear it out. As you know, the emergency brake is already difficult to set, and the vehicle wouldn't hold. I am replacing them all. I just restored the hardware and blued them.
Thanks!

Do you want to debate carbon content or concede that they are not stainless ? Stainless does NOT typically pit as seen in reply #5.    Not always but have saved my share of bead blasted brake cables by working the cables free with flushing of WD40 and back and forth elbow grease.

[1967 eight barrel]

Bob, I am going to keep the OE. I will work at it later, perhaps a couple cans of WD40 is the answer. No rust, as it was a CA car until it moved with me. Let me ask you a question: Is the OE trim around the doors ( drip rails) stainless? If so, I can stick a magnet to them. It did it by accident night before last recovering a bolt I dropped with a magnetic pick up. high carbon steel also holds up well over time. Perhaps it's simply a quality spring steel..
My point was that a magnet will stick to many types of stainless, not that the cable was stainless.

[Bob Gaines]

Bob, I am going to keep the OE. I will work at it later, perhaps a couple cans of WD40 is the answer. No rust, as it was a CA car until it moved with me. Let me ask you a question: Is the OE trim around the doors ( drip rails) stainless? If so, I can stick a magnet to them. It did it by accident night before last recovering a bold I dropped with a magnetic pick up. high carbon steel also holds up well over time. Perhaps it's simply a quality spring steel..
My point was that a magnet will stick to many types of stainless, not that the cable was stainless.

I would work on the OE .I have seen the repro and don't like them . Go over the armor covering with steel wool to give a little shine before going over it with T9 or similar. Yes the stainless trim must have a higher carbon content for the magnet to stick. I know about this as I used to have street exhausts made up  in a high carbon content stainless so that a magnet would stick which was the test for stainless exhaust in concours . Stainless is very maintenance friendly for a exhaust.   Deduction for stainless in concours. If you can't tell no deduction. 

[OldMustangGuy]

I've been able to blast and tumble my front cable so that it looks pretty good. I haven't attempted to do anything to the rear cables yet as the rubber sheath that covers part of the cable is cracked and/or split.

I assume there's no practical way to replace the rubber sheath on the rear cables?

Can anyone comment on the accuracy of the repros for the rear cables?

[1967 eight barrel]

I can tell you from what I have seen that neither have the rubber tubing over the sheath in the rear.

                                                                                                             -keith

[67gtasanjose]

I've been able to blast and tumble my front cable so that it looks pretty good. I haven't attempted to do anything to the rear cables yet as the rubber sheath that covers part of the cable is cracked and/or split.

I assume there's no practical way to replace the rubber sheath on the rear cables?

Can anyone comment on the accuracy of the repros for the rear cables?

After everything I have read about these black rubber protectors being cracked over 90% of the time and that ones not cracked, steel portions are rusted out 99.9% of the time, then add the fact the reproductions look nothing like originals...it leaves little choice but to attempt a restoration of good originals.

My originals, non-rusty, which survived a southern California, dessert life,... also have the split rubber protectors.
My plan is to clean grime, dirt and surface rust while protecting what is left of the cracked rubber.

Not sure what I'll use yet on the wiper grommets but plan on sculpting or filling the cracks with "The Right Stuff" RTV sealant. It dries with a nice low-luster, very similar to the original rubber material.