Topic: Engine install

[68NordicCat]

Getting close to the point of putting the 302 4v back in my 68 SJ built Cougar. Have installed steering linkage, suspension, fuel lines, brake lines, brake booster & master cylinder on the car and accessories (ac, ps, alt, etc.) on the motor. Don't want to get ahead of myself (just want to put the motor in once), so can anyone tell me what other items I should get installed on either the engine or the car before the motor goes in? Looking for kind of an engine install checklist I guess. Plan on installing transmission after the motor is in. Thanks.

[J_Speegle]

BIG one - did you do all the sealant applications on the firewall? Assuming that you have the main wire loom installed under the dash

- Furniture pads or a bunch of cardboard to protect the shock towers from a slight tap from the engine during the process.

- Pretty sure you didn't install the shock tower supports or shocks yet

- Have all the bellhousing, flywheel and associated bolts, details and ready

- Exhaust manifolds installed?  Heat shield isn't easy to install once the engine is in the car but you run a big risk if its on the engine during install. Your call

- Engine mounts installed?  Long bolts and nuts detailed?

- Have a method to hold up the rear of the engine until you install the trans?

- Engine plate painted/detailed leaving the face bare around the starter location?

- Leaving the front crank pulleys off to give you more clearance with the radiator support?

- Engine at TDC and the dist out or installing the engine with it in place.

- Watch and anticipate how things will end up if your using a chain to life the engine. Once tension is applied the direction can change quickly. Have seen dist broken, valve covers dented, aluminum intakes broken .....

All I can come up with at the moment off the top of my head

[68NordicCat]

- Firewall sealed yes, don't have the wire loom installed under the dash yet. What is the reason for doing this prior to engine install?
- Good suggestion on the pads
- No shock tower supports (coil spring covers, yes)
- Transmission ready
- Exhaust manifolds not yet on, but yes prior to install
- Engine mounts, yes. Finding some differences in what seems to be spec'd for the long, heavy insulator bolts - AMK & assembly manual vs what was on the car that looked to be original. Any guidance on correct size, head style, thread, etc?
- Good point on the engine support, would probably have just mounted it up and maybe torqued the insulators. Any suggestions for what works best? Something hung from the body?
- Engine plate & starter location prepped
- Had thought I would install with all pulleys, belts, and fan in place. Sounds like best not to although only the lower radiator supports are in now and I had planned on installing the radiator after - should it go before?
- Will ensure it is at TDC and wasn't sure if best to install with distributor in place or out of the engine - sounds like out
- Using a hoist and chain, and I've seen the same thing. Engine is on a stand now so I will have to make sure it stays oriented right

This is very helpful as usual. Thanks.

Dan

[CharlesTurner]

It's not that difficult to install the engine with transmission installed.  I've done it that way many times, actually by myself with no help.  I also will have exhaust manifolds installed and sometimes the H-pipe bolted on.

[jwc66k]

- Firewall sealed yes, don't have the wire loom installed under the dash yet. What is the reason for doing this prior to engine install?

The under dash harness is installed prior to the engine because the firewall connectors "clip" into the firewall, the engine compartment harness installed and the firewall connectors are then sealed.

- Exhaust manifolds not yet on, but yes prior to install

I prefer to install the manifolds after the engine to reduce scratches in the engine compartment - but - sometimes it's difficult to install the bolts.

It's not that difficult to install the engine with transmission installed.  I've done it that way many times, actually by myself with no help.  I also will have exhaust manifolds installed and sometimes the H-pipe bolted on.

I agree but my hoist will not go that high, there is a height limitation in my garage too, so its a multiple part installation.

- Engine mounts, yes. Finding some differences in what seems to be spec'd for the long, heavy insulator bolts - AMK & assembly manual vs what was on the car that looked to be original. Any guidance on correct size, head style, thread, etc?

The "book" says 379699-S2, 7/16-14X4 3/4hex 5/8, lead point, grade 2. That's what I've found on the San Jose cars I've seen. The AMK pictured bolt looks good.

- Had thought I would install with all pulleys, belts, and fan in place. Sounds like best not to although only the lower radiator supports are in now and I had planned on installing the radiator after - should it go before?

Consider doing all that after the engine is in and before the radiator is installed. The fuel pump may get in the way. The oil filter is painted engine color but can get damaged or get in the way too.

- Will ensure it is at TDC and wasn't sure if best to install with distributor in place or out of the engine - sounds like out

Absolutely. There are "gremlins" that live in everybody's garage that sneak in at night and turn the engine 90 to 180  degrees.
Jim

[JKWilson]

Personally I prefer to install engine/trans together. It is much easier to me than having to fight the trans into position later. IMHO it is also worth the few extra precautions needed to prevent scratching components/ engine bay. I feel you have a much greater chance of scratching/scuffing things while trying to install/tighten/manipulate fasteners and transmission later on. As Jim pointed out, leaving the exh manifolds off can be a benefit depending on how tight they are in the engine bay. With your 302 though I don't think this should be an issue.

With that said, one piece of advise for installing the engine/trans together; place the rear end on jack stands first. You don't need to raise it very high, but it helps greatly in reducing the angle needed to fit the engine/trans in. It also helps reduce the height needed for the engine hoist. Just a slight angle goes a long way. This also helps minimize damages and scratching because it creates a more "straight shot" into the engine bay/trans tunnel.

[CharlesTurner]

With that said, one piece of advise for installing the engine/trans together; place the rear end on jack stands first. You don't need to raise it very high, but it helps greatly in reducing the angle needed to fit the engine/trans in. It also helps reduce the height needed for the engine hoist. Just a slight angle goes a long way. This also helps minimize damages and scratching because it creates a more "straight shot" into the engine bay/trans tunnel.

+1 on that.  Even without a leveling bar on the engine hoist, the engine/trans bolted together will have the trans end pointing down from the weight distribution.  Not too difficult to pull it up on the end if needed to clear the rad support.

[1967 eight barrel]

You gentlemen must all be used to doing small block vehicles...   The FE with a four speed is easier to do with just the bell housing attached. If you're running Hooker headers, you might even want to leave the bell housing, engine brackets and mounts off and attach them after the headers are bolted up. I even remove the center cross over tube and the drag link and power steering that crosses under the back of the engine.  The exhaust flange bolts are are not easy to get to with the fenders on the vehicle.

                                                                          -Keith