Topic: Need some help identifying a 1965 coupe

[CharlesTurner]

3 24 C3 is the sheet metal stamping date for the dash section.  It decodes to March 24th, 3rd shift at Cleveland stamping plant.  Quite a span between a February 8th scheduled build date. 

[slipkid]

Thanks Charles, you are helping me in understanding these codes.  All sheet metal in the engine compartment is coming up 3-27-2 and 3-27-3d.

[CharlesTurner]

Well, those range of sheet metal codes would be more believable for a factory GT in '65.

[slipkid]

single exhaust car per our dialogue.  Plus, even though there is the correct bracket in the correct location for the correct routing of the brake line at the rear of the car, the single exhaust bracket location is rough - evidence that something was there at some point in time.  The half moon and the sheet metal reinforcement shall remain unexplained.

[CharlesTurner]

With the early February scheduled build date, it was pretty clear it could not have been a GT.  But, at this point, I would not rule it out.  I have seen some weird stuff on early Metuchen GT's.  Inspect the complete metal dash area and rule out the possibility that it came out of another car.  Look where it would be spot welded to the unibody all around the perimeter of the piece.  Any signs of drilled out spot welds or raw/ground edges might indicate some previous work.

Additionally, spend some time looking over the car and write down whatever sheet metal date stamps you see.  Engine bay, trunk, etc...  There are other areas that could help date the car also, which would be things like glass date codes, wiper motor ink-stamp, etc...

The longer I'm in this hobby, the more I am inclined to "never say never"!

[slipkid]

Charles - good afternoon. Here are some date code pics, engine bay and trunk.  I am posting again with more pics.  thanks, Rob

[slipkid]

Charles - the propotioing valve has been replaced with an adjustable unit - here's a pic of the mounting bracket - this is wheer the original valve was.  Also there is a pic of some holes under the dash, below where the fog light switch is mounted.  Thanks, Rob

[slipkid]

Lastly, close ups of the reinforcement.  Looks to me like the seam seal runs under the plate on the drivers side.  I visited a local salvage yard - the yard has a number of first gen mustangs, mostly 66 T codes.  All of the cars I looked at had the single exhaust transverse mount setup and the bolt hole arrangement in these cars is identical to my car.  i have looked and looked for a build sheet.....I have also asked the restorer (Perogie Enterprises) if the could come u with the name of the person they bought the car from.  Maybe I get lucky that way.  I thank you very much for taking an interest in this, I'm sure there are easier, more satisfying, things for you to do.

[CharlesTurner]

Charles - the propotioing valve has been replaced with an adjustable unit - here's a pic of the mounting bracket - this is wheer the original valve was.  Also there is a pic of some holes under the dash, below where the fog light switch is mounted.  Thanks, Rob

That pic you are describing as showing the proportioning valve is only showing the distribution block.  The original 65-66 disc brake proportioning valve would have been cylindrical with in/out connections and an adjustment stud with a large lock nut.  On an original disc brake car, there should be 2 holes for the proportioning valve.  One for the mount tab(cylindrical) and the other for the attaching bolt.  Also, the distribution block for a disc brake car should have 3 ports, drum brakes has 4.

This shows the holes:
http://www.early-mustang.com/charles/vert/3_19/3_19_05%20027.jpg

Original style valve with correct 3 port distribution block:
http://www.early-mustang.com/charles/vert/3_20/3_20_05%20025.jpg

[slipkid]

The restorer replaced the original valve and block.  It is now adjustable.  I've tried to get a pic of the mounting holes where the original was (and the new block is now mounted to).   Here's another shot.  there are  holes - one for the bolt and one for the mounting tab.

[CharlesTurner]

That's the distribution block.  The mounting holes are the same for all models. 

Further down the inner fender is where the original proportioning valve would have been mounted.  If you look at the pic I provided above of the outside shot of the LH inner fender area, you'll see 2 holes, placed diagonal to each other, about 6-8" below the distribution block mounting area.

[slipkid]

Charles - best pics I could get.  the Wilwood proportioning valve blocks alot from the inside but good pic from inside the wheel well.  The sway bar is 13/16, much too easy to fake or would some pics of the sway bar mounting brackest help?   Thanks much, Rob

[CharlesTurner]

Holes look ok for the prop valve. 

[slipkid]

Charles - thank you again.  You have responded to everyone of my posts and it is much appreciated.  I have enjoyed every minute of this learning curve that I am on.  In looking at the bigger picture I cannot see someone painstakingly fabricate the reinforcement sheetmetal (which is identical in shape and attachment to every picture of true reinforcement that I have seen), create the half moon (it is smooth, no cuts or rough edges and no indication that this is not the dash that came with the car), find the correct instrument cluster including the ammeter wire through the sensor, and take the time to create everything else - proportioning valve holes, fog light wiring (including backup light function and wiring holes), sway bar (although painted the bar is pitted and looks old), etc and not finish the effort by changing the glove box door and the exhaust hangars?  Why take the time to do all that and then not finish the job?

Fred Glazier and Dan Nolan are about 90 minutes away.  I'll head up there sometime this summer.  Put it on the lift and have them comb through it.  See what they can say/explain about this car.  Thanks again, Rob

[CharlesTurner]

If I hadn't seen other early Metuchen GT's with some unique features, I wouldn't have led you on this path.  A thorough inspection of the underside might help answer some additional questions.  While I have been objective so far, I think it is best for you continue to approach this with some skepticism and try to avoid drawing any conclusions.