Topic: Dismantle remote exterior mirror

[Fastback2013]

Good morning,

I want to dismantle all the items from my exterior rear view mirror (driver side) with remote control, for re plating/chroming.
I have searched on internet but didn't  find any explanation on how to remove the 3 cables from the control knob, or from the mirror case.
There must be a simple(?) way to do it, but I don't want to do something stupid
Thanks for your help.
Kind regards,
Jeroen

[67gtasanjose]

Hello Jeroen,
I have separated these before many years ago but I recall it being difficult. #1, each cable must be marked to ensure it returns to the same location. Paint daubs work well for marking, use three different colors. Next, since the pot-metal housing are crimped onto the cable casing and the cable tips. You need to be very careful separating or spreading the crimps but once you have, the cables can be disconnected. I practiced on a "junk" one first but you will likely not have that luxury. I also had another 3rd mirror that I simply cut another end off of and prepared the end to go back on to the cables differently, I removed the cables and filed the holes from the inside till the cables fit correctly then lightly crimped them after assembly.

I hope others have found an easier way and chime in. This worked for me on the one occasion I tried it but I imagine there are other, possibly much better ways where original pieces are not requiring replacement to accomplish the task.

Good Luck!

Richard

[ruppstang]

I have done it as well and agree with Richard it is not easy.

[Fastback2013]

Thanks Richard for your time and explanation!
Good idea for marking the cable ends with different colors.
Can the knob being separated from the pot-metal housing?
Must I turn the knob like a screw?
It is obvious that this job isn't easy (at the remote's end), but I do not see how to begin for disconnecting the cables out of the housing of the mirror?
I see 3 holes in that casing and all the 3 cables are going through those holes, but I can't see (visually) were those cables stops (= plate where the mirror itself is attached to).
Thanks for your help everybody.
Kind regards,
Jeroen

[67gtasanjose]

Thanks Richard for your time and explanation!
Good idea for marking the cable ends with different colors.
Can the knob being separated from the pot-metal housing?
Must I turn the knob like a screw?
It is obvious that this job isn't easy (at the remote's end), but I do not see how to begin for disconnecting the cables out of the housing of the mirror?
I see 3 holes in that casing and all the 3 cables are going through those holes, but I can't see (visually) were those cables stops (= plate where the mirror itself is attached to).
Thanks for your help everybody.
Kind regards,
Jeroen

Yes, I believe the knob itself can be unscrewed (though I never tried to) but a detail I didn't mention earlier, you disconnect the ends of the cables at the "knob end" housing (remote control end) and thread the three cables through the mirror housing after unscrewing the top, not disconnecting them from the mirror end at all.

You could be able to purchase a cheap used OE mirror in, shall we say, "restorable condition", for around $20-$40 US plus shipping and make a "practice run" as I mentioned I had done back some +20 years ago. It helps you make mistakes that you won't probably do on your own, plus, if you cut off the cables, like I had done, you can easier mutilate that end without damaging the cables themselves which is crucial....DO NOT BEND THE CABLES AT ALL or it will not work correctly when re-assembled.

Richard

[Bob Gaines]

Good morning,

I want to dismantle all the items from my exterior rear view mirror (driver side) with remote control, for re plating/chroming.
I have searched on internet but didn't  find any explanation on how to remove the 3 cables from the control knob, or from the mirror case.
There must be a simple(?) way to do it, but I don't want to do something stupid
Thanks for your help.
Kind regards,
Jeroen

Something to consider is that typically in the process of rechroming the sharp edges of the housing are rounded off substantially in the polishing process. It might be better if you take the original glass that is date stamped and replace that  into a reproduction housing. If you have a rounded off edge rechromed housing with original glass it is no better then a correct appearing housing with no date code. Of course the ideal would be a original appearing housing with date code glass. That can be accomplished the ideal by putting the right glass in the repro housing. Just more input for the discussion.

[ruppstang]

Something to consider is that typically in the process of rechroming the sharp edges of the housing are rounded off substantially in the polishing process. It might be better if you take the original glass that is date stamped and replace that  into a reproduction housing. If you have a rounded off edge rechromed housing with original glass it is no better then a correct appearing housing with no date code. Of course the ideal would be a original appearing housing with date code glass. That can be accomplished the ideal by putting the right glass in the repro housing. Just more input for the discussion.

This is what I did.
Yes the knob will just screw off.
Marty

[Fastback2013]

Thank you all for your comments and help.
In attachment a close up of the mirror case :  are these the edges you mean that will be rounded up?
If it could be done 50 years ago with 'sharp' edges, why can't it be done the same way now?
Or is there another manor of production?
Out of curiosity : why is an original shell that is re chromed and with more round up edges less in quality (for judging) than a repro shell with 'sharp' edges?
I thought that clean up/ replate/ re chrome original parts was something that adds points up?
Again, I know that such details are less important for my car here in Belgium, then with you guys in the USA !
I am glad that I even have one 
Kind regards,
Jeroen

[ruppstang]

The mirror shell is made from pot metal which is soft. When the old chrome is striped off they basically sand it loosing the crispness of all the edges. The quality of the reproduction chrome is pretty good and may be less costly than the replate too. If you put a date coded mirror in it few judges could tell that it was not original.

[Bob Gaines]

Thank you all for your comments and help.
In attachment a close up of the mirror case :  are these the edges you mean that will be rounded up?
If it could be done 50 years ago with 'sharp' edges, why can't it be done the same way now?
Or is there another manor of production?
Out of curiosity : why is an original shell that is re chromed and with more round up edges less in quality (for judging) than a repro shell with 'sharp' edges?
I thought that clean up/ replate/ re chrome original parts was something that adds points up?
Again, I know that such details are less important for my car here in Belgium, then with you guys in the USA !
I am glad that I even have one 
Kind regards,
Jeroen

It is points down if the original parts can't be made to look as good as original in appearance . You would have to read up on the diecast chrome plating process to understand better the difficulties to strip and  prepare for re chrome a old die cast part compared to rechrome of a new diecast part that has never had chrome on it. 

[jwc66k]

It is points down if the original parts can't be made to look as good as original in appearance . 

Not always true. A chrome shop that specializes in antique car chrome work can "restore" the finish. My complaint is that they are sometimes too good, there is a deep blue "glow" that results.

When the old chrome is striped off they basically sand it loosing the crispness of all the edges.

That's one process, sand, that the shop I used doesn't employ harshly. It's mostly all chemical dips, more than 30 times in a dip of one nature or another, strip, rinse, plate, rinse, etc, with several steps of buffing as appropriate. Filling pits it the artistic part. Pot metal is difficult, but it can be done. You need to point out what you want done and what concerns you have, edges, recesses, flats, etc. I had my original 66 Rotunda mirror re-chromed, base and housing. It came out looking good (except for the deep blue - see above). The hardest part was reassembling the mirror and base, until I took apart a repro and reassembled it to find the "trick" (the long screw alignment). The cable ends were painted green, red and yellow, but the paint had flaked off over time. Testor's Model paint "restored" that feature. Fortunately for me, the interior control arm and plate were not in need of any work. I don't know the availability or quality of chrome shops in Europe, which may be your biggest problem.
Jim

[Bob Gaines]

Not always true. A chrome shop that specializes in antique car chrome work can "restore" the finish. My complaint is that they are sometimes too good, there is a deep blue "glow" that results.That's one process, sand, that the shop I used doesn't employ harshly. It's mostly all chemical dips, more than 30 times in a dip of one nature or another, strip, rinse, plate, rinse, etc, with several steps of buffing as appropriate. Filling pits it the artistic part. Pot metal is difficult, but it can be done. You need to point out what you want done and what concerns you have, edges, recesses, flats, etc. I had my original 66 Rotunda mirror re-chromed, base and housing. It came out looking good (except for the deep blue - see above). The hardest part was reassembling the mirror and base, until I took apart a repro and reassembled it to find the "trick" (the long screw alignment). The cable ends were painted green, red and yellow, but the paint had flaked off over time. Testor's Model paint "restored" that feature. Fortunately for me, the interior control arm and plate were not in need of any work. I don't know the availability or quality of chrome shops in Europe, which may be your biggest problem.
Jim

Regardless of how it is done if the finished product doesn't look like it supposed to it will be points off if noticed . This is not a simple question that has a simple answer. The part that may not be always true is the chrome platers ability and the variable of the core being used. Some chrome shops can be less aggressive on polishing or told to be . Most chemically strip the chrome off anyway. It is the after striping and the polishing prior to the final chrome plating that does the damage. The core used if pitted will require a lot of work which multiples the chances to have it look different . On older diecast cores sometimes if the core doesn't have pits ones will show up caused by reactions to the plating process which cases the process to be redone and added copper (one way) plated over the imperfections to build them up which again requires polishing prior to the chroming process. The point is there is more chances for it to come out wrong then come out right on THIS  particular part given the design. This is a  complex question and answer. The point being that replating a original part is not always the best solution to the best restored part.    I thought I would mention that the difference between the rounded contours of a Rotunda mirror and the sharp edges a 67/68 Mirror are night and day in relation to this discussion.

[jwc66k]

Given the choices of finding a decent or NOS mirror, using one that is in sub-standard condition or having a shop chrome an old one are challenging. A good shop can do the chrome. The problem is finding one. It can be done.
Jim

[OldMustangGuy]

I just recently did one for a 68 Shelby GT350 that I am doing. The chrome shop I went to did a great job on the plating (although the idea of using a repro housing is a pretty good one if you don't have access to a quality plater). As noted, the little tabs that are crimped to hold the cable ends in place are brittle and can easily break when pried apart or re-crimped. Rather than messing around with trying to spread the tabs I just used a Dremel tool and carefully cut them open just enough to slide the cable out. Then, when I put the cables back, I fixed them in place with a daub of automotive panel adhesive. Works great and it's a much easier process.

[J_Speegle]

Was just scanning some TSB's for other threads and since this was in the same group as my focus thought I would post it here. Seems that Ford was having issues with the remote mirrors and addressing customer's complaints. Here was the Fords instructions to the service managers in March of 1967