Topic: glass polishing

[69GT350H]

...   This time, I bought GlassRenu's "Professional Grade Scratch Removal System" (cost $250 +shipping).  ....

Just did a quick WEB search and did not find anything that matched this product. Where might I find it?

Thanks.

[BKnapp]

Found this on google

https://glassrenu.com/consumer/

[jwc66k]

All I remember is if you drag a fingernail across a scratch in the glass and you can feel it "snag", the glass is beyond help, otherwise, try Eastwood for buffing stuff.
Jim

[67gtasanjose]

Guess I'm a bit skeptical regarding waves/distortions after buffing.  Taking out DA marks and scratches deep enough to catch a fingernail require a lot of material to be removed...

My concern also. Know I saw some reproduction glass on a car earlier this year that had waves in the glass also if you got the angle just right. Wouldn't be happy with that after money and or time was spent

All I remember is if you drag a fingernail across a scratch in the glass and you can feel it "snag", the glass is beyond help, otherwise, try Eastwood for buffing stuff.
Jim

I do understand the concerns along the lines of the quotes above, considering the Concours Nature of this forum. The only true acid test is, if the glass doesn't look EXACTLY like new, and ONLY with the correct dates and correct logos, placed in the exact same location and on the same side of the glass as it would have been on the day the car was actually built, it stands the chance of taking deductions when it comes to the Show Field or Judging.

New is New. (Polished) Used glass will likely never pass examination under a microscope, I get that.  If you want brand new dated glass then go through that process and buy the glass new and have it dated or leave it as was delivered (without dates). That option will yield you New Glass results, which, as I understand, fall short of "Concours" standards as well, most notably on TINTED glass, which is what I have been working on.

It all boils down to choices, we have to all make choices on our projects. When you consider that I began with "damaged beyond use" glass, I felt that anything I could do to re-use the original, dated glass ...getting it as close as practical to "exactly like brand-new" again, would better than the alternative choices IMHO. 

This process DOES make it completely "usable" again, and probably nicer that you could ever expect if you had a "before" vs. "after" look at it in person. I did try and shoot a video of not only the damage but also the finished product but in neither video, could you really make out the full extent of either the damage nor the finished product. I was concerned that this endeavor would be dismal, that I would still be unhappy with the results. That concern has been removed. SEEING IS BELIEVING.

[67gtasanjose]

The other thing to consider is that with your equipment, experience, steady hand, lack of fear, and results you might find people inquiring about this is a service.  I would pay for it, and I consider myself as one who wants to do it all myself, farming out only what I have to.  Regarding risk, if someone has original glass as bad as yours, why not try to save it for the cost of one way shipping and a couple hours work.  If a piece doesn't pan out, you toss it and there is no return shipping.  Then they go out and get a replacement, what they would be doing anyway.

Thanks John.

I will first address the "Lack Of Fear" part of the comment. I knew my glass was bad enough to throw it all out, and I mean ALL out so the fear of buying new glass for the whole project must have been the recipe for courage. I suppose my fears of replacing ALL of the glass motivated my desire to at least try another process. I knew I could at very least use it as a business "write-off" on my taxes Putting back all of the damaged side glass didn't seem wise either. After jumping "IN" to the GlassRenu idea and ordering the kit and a new, variable-speed buffer (elsewhere), my "FEARS" increased because now that I have spent the money, am I going to also ruin my glass too?

Then we have the "Doing This As A Service" aspect of your comment. Hmmm. I think the first thing that comes to mind is "How do you avoid angry customers with way too high of expectations?"

Since the time needed to do the "Try it and see how it comes out.", usually will require at least an hour or two PLUS the use of the scratch removal and pre-polishing discs that are not at all inexpensive either (polishing compound isn't too awfully expensive but the discs are), a person would be risking a few hundred dollars for "Maybe the customer will be happy with this" results.

As I mentioned in my previous comment, I am sure that under a magnifying lens, you will still find defects in the finished product, usually "more time" can eliminate that "defect" but people will want a "set price" for such a service. There really can be no "set price" because of the variables but more concerning would be that after spending a few hours, who would want to "Pay, to throw it away"? I imagine this is why contractors ONLY wish to do architectural jobs...Those jobs have likely already been quoted as "replacement glass" jobs too, yet the criteria for "perfection" is less stringent.

[67gta289]

Understood - the risk lies with customer expectations.  If I was in a similar position, with the options of "try it" or buy all new, I might start out with sending you one piece of window glass - side not vent (vent being too small to evaluate properly).  Shipping would not be horrible.  After a couple hours of work you report back whether the patient died on the operating table or will live a long life.  Ship back.  The customer can then decide if the patient will live a long and happy life.  If happy, they can send you more glass.   My guess is that the round trip plus hours might actually be cheaper than new glass.  Plus as you mentioned, it would be "my" original glass.   Not for everybody, but for some, perhaps.

[nham3407]

I went to their website and noted they have a map showing shops across the country using their products. I emailed them to see if the shop advertised in my area was truly a shop or their advertisement to locate a vendor.  Will wait and see.  It may be worth the consideration of bringing your glass to a shop that has the equipment to avoid the higher cost of entry to give this a shot and the experience dealing with their process.  Will see what options I have.  I may contact the company listed in Atlanta and see if they can quote me.

[67gtasanjose]

I went to their website and noted they have a map showing shops across the country using their products. I emailed them to see if the shop advertised in my area was truly a shop or their advertisement to locate a vendor.  Will wait and see.  It may be worth the consideration of bringing your glass to a shop that has the equipment to avoid the higher cost of entry to give this a shot and the experience dealing with their process.  Will see what options I have.  I may contact the company listed in Atlanta and see if they can quote me.

I cannot imagine NOBODY would work on these windows for us on a local level but in the greater Cleveland/Pittsburgh area...ZILCH! I did not wish to ship these out, I wanted to drive them to a location for a quote and with that in mind, I got NO replies from anyone in my area.

Good luck!

[nham3407]

They had this on their site as a customer testimonial.

 had several deep scratches on the windshield of my BMW that were driving me crazy. I found GlassRenu and hired a local technician who was able to get the scratches out of the glass for less than $300 and the glass looks brand new. So glad I called, Thanks!

– Mike S. GA

Will see what happens?

[67350#1242]

Richard,  I am curious if you found the side and rear tempered glass to be more difficult than the windshield which is laminated?
Kurt.

[67gtasanjose]

Richard,  I am curious if you found the side and rear tempered glass to be more difficult than the windshield which is laminated?
Kurt.

I have not done a windshield yet.

Really, the tempered glass isn't at all difficult to even shave off minor to moderate sand damage if you start with the Black disc (dry process)and keep cleaning the glass dust out of the disc as you go, it obliterates the scratches in only a few seconds and depending how deep the sand damage, within a minutes/moments of beginning. The following steps, to step it back up to a luster of more or less like new, is where the time is spent. Double-up on the 10-pack sleeves of grey discs (also a dry step) and once you realize that "New Discs Are Your Friend" and you quit trying to being stingy with them, it will go rather quickly. You simply cannot "be cheap" on this step. When the grey disc step is done 'correctly", the final micro-polishing with the Cirium Oxide solution (wet step) goes by in under 10-minutes a side. The problem is, you might end up having to go back to the grey discs again, and possibly even again and again before you get all of the damage out...That can really tire you out fast since there are multiple movements of your whole body, trying to keep a constant and consistent movement going.

[67gta289]

Sounds like all of that orchestrated body movement for long durations might have the side effect of making your body “buff” as well. Sorry, couldn’t resist.

[CharlesTurner]

Thanks for sharing all the info.  It definitely sounds like a reasonable option.

I had one additional thing to add, just as a side note... I have heard that with aggressive buffing of tempered glass that the surface strength of the glass becomes weakened.  I know of at least one case where buffed door glass was installed, had been ok for a while and then shattered out of the blue when the door was closed.

[67gtasanjose]

Thanks for sharing all the info.  It definitely sounds like a reasonable option.

I had one additional thing to add, just as a side note... I have heard that with aggressive buffing of tempered glass that the surface strength of the glass becomes weakened.  I know of at least one case where buffed door glass was installed, had been ok for a while and then shattered out of the blue when the door was closed.

Yes, I would think this could always a possibility. The instructions suggest thermal monitoring with a laser thermometer, perhaps this example you mentioned is a good reason why. Essentally, like not increasing over ambient temperature something like +40 degrees higher it seems they said.


and John:
That ship sailed off the edge of the earth!

[Bossbill]

I'm about ready to do this. Some questions.

Do I really have to remove the chrome trim at the top of the door window? I guess I do since a 3-5" pad won't get all of the glass in the corners. Huh -- answered that myself.

The side windows are curved yet the instructions want you keep the pad flat. Now what?

How easy was the stainless to remove? My vent came out more fairly easy. But this thing is long. I recall using something slimy to pour around the stainless. Do I remember that right?

I wondered how I got so clever about mounting suction cups to plywood and then I re-read this and see where that idea comes from. Thanks.