Topic: '68 Starter Solenoid problems

[mikelj5S230]

I have a "correct" Autolite repop that has given me trouble, it stuck engaged so the starter was engaged while the engine started and idled.  I was able to quickly shut everything down before any damage happened, and after disconnecting it all and reconnecting it it has started fine with no problems.  But, I do not trust it so I am replacing it with a reliable NAPA unit, not correct looking but it will work all the time.  Anyone have any tips about any of the "correct" repops being any good, or all they all Chinese junk?  And if they are all junk, what do you all do for "concours correct" solenoids that actually work? Thanks.

[midlife]

I have heard that the AMK produced concours-correct starter solenoids aren't very reliable.  I have no personal knowledge of this, only repeating what was stated in other forums.

[Bob Gaines]

I have a "correct" Autolite repop that has given me trouble, it stuck engaged so the starter was engaged while the engine started and idled.  I was able to quickly shut everything down before any damage happened, and after disconnecting it all and reconnecting it it has started fine with no problems.  But, I do not trust it so I am replacing it with a reliable NAPA unit, not correct looking but it will work all the time.  Anyone have any tips about any of the "correct" repops being any good, or all they all Chinese junk?  And if they are all junk, what do you all do for "concours correct" solenoids that actually work? Thanks.

Your options are find a original good enough to restore (replate the bracket),find a NOS unit , or keep a couple repros on the shelf in case one fails . The OEM Ford ones virtually never failed.

[dave6768]

I too had the same problem.  I ended up cleaning up my 30 year old unit.  Lucky for me, all the plating was still in great shape.

[Bob Gaines]

I too had the same problem.  I ended up cleaning up my 30 year old unit.  Lucky for me, all the plating was still in great shape.

I had the exact same problem too on a 66 car just 4 days ago. I replated the bracket of a used original unit I had in my stand by pile to solve the problem. It looks great and I can depend on I too.

[mikelj5S230]

I have a good local electronics restoration guy who thinks he can swap the good guts of the NAPA unit into the correct and new looking Chinese Autolite junk exterior case.  I may let him try that.

[ruppstang]

I have had this problem with several of the reproductions and as said above I now restore originals.

[67gtasanjose]

OK, rebuilding the original is the way to go if you have a good used available (and I do)

Re plating the mounting bracket seems easy enough to do, and sending the bracket out with several other like finish items to be plated together at the same time, would seem to be the most reasonable for pricing.

These were riveted together units and I am sure there are contacts inside that should be filed or sanded to improve internal connections. A source of the rivets would be extremely helpful.

I had already been considering if it was practical to rebuild one (my original) or buy one aftermarket (from Marti Auto Works ~$38) or simply use a later D2 service piece (though not Concours). Decisions, Decisions.

I have concerns about any notion that original "guts" would fit into any aftermarket parts/pieces but I suppose the bracket itself from off of a reproduction solenoid would easily be moved to a later service piece Motorcraft solenoid.

Maybe an ARTICLE in the library put together by someone who has already walked this road would be a DYNOMITE idea? Just asking... 

[Bob Gaines]

OK, rebuilding the original is the way to go if you have a good used available (and I do)

Re plating the mounting bracket seems easy enough to do, and sending the bracket out with several other like finish items to be plated together at the same time, would seem to be the most reasonable for pricing.

These were riveted together units and I am sure there are contacts inside that should be filed or sanded to improve internal connections. A source of the rivets would be extremely helpful.

I had already been considering if it was practical to rebuild one (my original) or buy one aftermarket (from Marti Auto Works ~$38) or simply use a later D2 service piece (though not Concours). Decisions, Decisions.

I have concerns about any notion that original "guts" would fit into any aftermarket parts/pieces but I suppose the bracket itself from off of a reproduction solenoid would easily be moved to a later service piece Motorcraft solenoid.

Maybe an ARTICLE in the library put together by someone who has already walked this road would be a DYNOMITE idea? Just asking...

Someone with more time then I will have to do a article. One of the problems with the repro is that they seem more susceptible to problems like  when tightening the wires on the side posts is that you have to hold the inner nut as you tighten the outer nut. If you don't the possibility of the post slightly twisting or turning could result . That twisting translates into the contact points mis aligning inside the body . A light misalignment results in less contact between the two pints which can result in more resistance = heat = sometimes enough to weld = contact points sticking together  = starter remaining in gauged until battery is disconnected or knocked loose with a hard hit to the solenoid top.  Same caution needs to be exercise with originals but originals don't seem to be as susceptible as the repros.

[drummingrocks]

I, too, have struggled with the repro AMK solenoids.  The one on my '69 Mach stuck closed almost immediately after installing it.  Now, I use a NAPA brand solenoid when I'm driving to and from shows, and swap in the repro solenoid once I'm on the show field. 

[Laurie S.]

I had an AMK solenoid stick on me, too.  I restored an original and carry an electronic one with me, just in case.

[midlife]

I harvest solenoids from old Fords found in junkyards for customers that might be interested in them.  Although not in the best cosmetic shape, they probably were not the reason for the car being in the junkyard.

[70 Cougar]

The repro units are garbage.  Had a brand new one fail on the 2nd or 3rd start up and that's with solid grounds and a fully charged battery.

[rockhouse66]

Very curious how you replate one of these solenoids.  How do you remove the top bracket?  Do you drill the rivets and remove and replate the bottom plate too?  Then how do you reattach these to look as if you hadn't worked on it?

[67gtasanjose]

Very curious how you replate one of these solenoids.  How do you remove the top bracket?  Do you drill the rivets and remove and replate the bottom plate too?  Then how do you reattach these to look as if you hadn't worked on it?

+1

Why I asked for those who have already "walked the road" for help. Maybe I shouldn't have asked for an "article"