Topic: Steering linkage on 65 convert 289 Dearborn built

[fjm]

I am working on reinstalling my steering linkage.  I plan to paint it either semi-gloss black or cast blast that looks (almost) similar to cast iron.  Is black acceptable as concours?  There are some other things I've done that do not meet concours quality and I'm OK with that, but I am trying to make it as close as possible.
What do you think?
Thanks in advance for your help.

[J_Speegle]

I am working on reinstalling my steering linkage.  I plan to paint it either semi-gloss black or cast blast that looks (almost) similar to cast iron.

Neither - Read the past threads about the issues, challenges and experiences with painted parts before you make the choice to paint

One of the problems I think you'll find is that the front suspension has multiple finishes and looks that can not be reproduced with paints. Surfaces such as freshly machined surfaces, test patches, heat treated surfaces and different materials (cast tie rod verses the sheet metal "caps") make it near impossible. And the mono-tone seen on cars where the parts were just rattle canned look so wrong and really stand out today. Might have worked in the 90's.

Also this sort of choice often communicates allot to people viewing the car as to level of "restoration"  if it can even be called that IMHO

Is black acceptable as concours? 

Not original so no they would not be acceptable at any judged show that knows anything about the cars.

[jwc66k]

Here's what the finish of the center link should look like. It was lightly phosphated and oiled. The "ball joint" was sealed with RTV before bead blasting and phosphating. I let the RTV set for over a month before doing any work, then cut it off with a razor blade. Tie rod ends were treated the same way as the center link and the adjusting sleeve and hardware were also phosphated. Tie rod end and the hardware were allowed to darken more than the center link.
Jim

[Bob Gaines]

Here's what the finish of the center link should look like. It was lightly phosphated and oiled. The "ball joint" was sealed with RTV before bead blasting and phosphating. I let the RTV set for over a month before doing any work, then cut it off with a razor blade. Tie rod ends were treated the same way as the center link and the adjusting sleeve and hardware were also phosphated. Tie rod end and the hardware were allowed to darken more than the center link.
Jim

I find that the adjusting sleeve clamps are a darker steel (spring steel?) . Nuts and bolts are darker heat treated steel and I re dye the red lock nut insert with a dot of red dykem . The sleeve itself was bare steel which is a lighter color. I tumble the beadblasted sleeves with metal shot for a fresh steel look. I immediately treat with T9 to keep from flash rusting. These different shades make for nice contrast with each other IMO.  Just what I do.

[fjm]

Well I suppose it's another job that won't be concours correct.  BUT...  All of the parts have been cleaned of whatever coating was on them with a wire wheel and are at present raw metal, so I suppose it's as close to original as I can get it.  I don't have the equipment to do phosphate treatments, etc., and honestly am starting to burn out worrying about details. 
 
@ Bob.....  you mentioned T9 to keep from rusting.  Don't know what that is or where to get it.  I've noticed within a day or two of my wire wheel cleaning that the humidity has produced a light surface rust on the finish.  If I were to wheel clean again would the T9, or something else available you could recommend, be suitable to protect the metal and still look reasonably close to original.  It won't be shown anywhere but maybe at a few parking lot gatherings.  Anything that would protect from rust but let the cleaned metal show would be enough for me.  Probably would do the same to the spindles.

[fjm]

By the way, you guys and the information you offer is priceless.  I've helped a few people on various sites and know how valuable the input can be.

[J_Speegle]

...........  I don't have the equipment to do phosphate treatments, etc., and honestly am starting to burn out worrying about details. 

Have you explored the use of gun bluing repair fluid?

Plenty of threads and articles related to this simply way of coloring metal here on this site

[Bob Gaines]

Well I suppose it's another job that won't be concours correct.  BUT...  All of the parts have been cleaned of whatever coating was on them with a wire wheel and are at present raw metal, so I suppose it's as close to original as I can get it.  I don't have the equipment to do phosphate treatments, etc., and honestly am starting to burn out worrying about details. 
 
@ Bob.....  you mentioned T9 to keep from rusting.  Don't know what that is or where to get it.  I've noticed within a day or two of my wire wheel cleaning that the humidity has produced a light surface rust on the finish.  If I were to wheel clean again would the T9, or something else available you could recommend, be suitable to protect the metal and still look reasonably close to original.  It won't be shown anywhere but maybe at a few parking lot gatherings.  Anything that would protect from rust but let the cleaned metal show would be enough for me.  Probably would do the same to the spindles.

T9 Boe Shield is made by the Boeing airplane company . You can get it from NPD, I recently found that many Bike stores carry it, sometimes Sears has it in the Tool area. It keeps tools and blades from rusting , guns and knifes from rusting,bike parts and chains from rusting and invaluable in protecting car parts from rusting. There are other similar products but I like this one.

[Bob Gaines]

• Have you explored the use of gun bluing repair fluid?
  

Plenty of threads and articles related to this simply way of coloring metal here on this site

+1 . Easy to do . You would still need to go over it with the  T9 but the properties of the blueing enhance the staying power of the T9 even more.

[WT8095]

Well I suppose it's another job that won't be concours correct.  BUT...  All of the parts have been cleaned of whatever coating was on them with a wire wheel and are at present raw metal, so I suppose it's as close to original as I can get it.  I don't have the equipment to do phosphate treatments, etc., and honestly am starting to burn out worrying about details. 
 
@ Bob.....  you mentioned T9 to keep from rusting.  Don't know what that is or where to get it.  I've noticed within a day or two of my wire wheel cleaning that the humidity has produced a light surface rust on the finish.  If I were to wheel clean again would the T9, or something else available you could recommend, be suitable to protect the metal and still look reasonably close to original.  It won't be shown anywhere but maybe at a few parking lot gatherings.  Anything that would protect from rust but let the cleaned metal show would be enough for me.  Probably would do the same to the spindles.

What climate do you live in? is the car kept in a heated/air conditioned garage? How much do you plan to drive it? Is it going to be driven in the rain? If it's going to be driven and not a static museum piece, you have to consider not only restoration, but preservation, and you may not be able to achieve both. Every rusted-out basket case you pick parts from in the junkyard was concours correct the day it rolled off the line. Time, miles, and Mother Nature are going work hard to undo all of your efforts. Sorry, that probably doesn't help reduce your level of worry, does it?   

[fjm]

I live a few miles south of Chicago so you know the weather.  Right now it's 90 and very humid.  After I wire wheeled the tie rods clean eaarly this week I had to do it again last night.  In a few more months it will be zero with snow and salt on the roads.  The car will never see it.  I'll only drive the car from May and maybe into Nov,  and store it in my garage, which is insulated but no heat or AC.

The spindles and linkage parts cleaned up well with the wire wheel.  Considering only wet roads to contend with, I decided to coat them a couple times with non-yellowing (hopefully) Krylon.  I think they look damn good considering the last time they looked so close to original is the day they were installed.  At this point I'm done with them.  Thanks for all the info input.  Much appreciated.

[Bob Gaines]

I live a few miles south of Chicago so you know the weather.  Right now it's 90 and very humid.  After I wire wheeled the tie rods clean eaarly this week I had to do it again last night.  In a few more months it will be zero with snow and salt on the roads.  The car will never see it.  I'll only drive the car from May and maybe into Nov,  and store it in my garage, which is insulated but no heat or AC.

The spindles and linkage parts cleaned up well with the wire wheel.  Considering only wet roads to contend with, I decided to coat them a couple times with non-yellowing (hopefully) Krylon.  I think they look damn good considering the last time they looked so close to original is the day they were installed.  At this point I'm done with them.  Thanks for all the info input.  Much appreciated.

For your own good you had better coat the Krylon clear coated parts with the T9 for added protection otherwise the metal will start to rust under the clear especially at the adjusting sleeves. The parts will start to rust underneath the clear a long time before the clear has time to start to yellow. I know this to be true from personal experience.

[WT8095]

I live a few miles south of Chicago so you know the weather.  Right now it's 90 and very humid.  After I wire wheeled the tie rods clean eaarly this week I had to do it again last night.  In a few more months it will be zero with snow and salt on the roads.  The car will never see it.  I'll only drive the car from May and maybe into Nov,  and store it in my garage, which is insulated but no heat or AC.

The spindles and linkage parts cleaned up well with the wire wheel.  Considering only wet roads to contend with, I decided to coat them a couple times with non-yellowing (hopefully) Krylon.  I think they look damn good considering the last time they looked so close to original is the day they were installed.  At this point I'm done with them.  Thanks for all the info input.  Much appreciated.

An insulated garage is a big plus, but as you know the dreaded "spring rust" will still present a challenge March-May. Maybe not as bad in IL as it gets up here in MN or farther North. (For those of you in warmer climes, up here the temperature swings in early spring create a lot of condensation problems, even in closed, insulated storage areas) Like Bob said, even coated parts can start corroding underneath. Personally I'm planning to rely on clear coat or paint to simulate bare surfaces, and compromise a bit on the authentic appearance in lieu of better protecting the original part underneath. Not the 100% concours approach, and not something I'm advocating for others - it's just the line I'm drawing. Now, if I win the lottery and build that 100'x300' climate-controlled shop I've dreamt of, it may be a different story... 

[J_Speegle]

A word of warning about clears and paint. They too will not hold up to the elements - in my experience clear is little better than oil and a whole lot more hassle to fix or correct that natural and oils.

Make your choice - its not going to be a do it and forget it process no matter what you do.

[fjm]

Considering the climate I'll be driving in I think I'll stick with the couple coats of clear.  It looks pretty damn good right now, and close to original.  Nothing last forever but I'm hoping it last a few years before I would want to re -do.  It's fairly easy to take off and re-do it if I must.  If I can locate some T-9 or equivalent I'll top coat too.

Thanks to all of you who helped with your input.  One thing for sure, I have a hell of a lot more regard for those of you who plug through the problems to make your car concours correct now that I understand what's involved and have struggled to make mine as close as I can.
Kudos to you.