Topic: Gun Blueing

[Brian Conway]

     I would like to use the gun blueing process in lieu of the oil phosphate process on my 9/19/68 Metuchen; shock tower caps, the shock tower braces and perhaps down the road the hood hinges.  Perma blue sells a kit but the liquids are in 3oz. containers.  How much of this stuff is needed ?  Thanks, Brian

[Bob Gaines]

     I would like to use the gun blueing process in lieu of the oil phosphate process on my 9/19/68 Metuchen; shock tower caps, the shock tower braces and perhaps down the road the hood hinges.  Perma blue sells a kit but the liquids are in 3oz. containers.  How much of this stuff is needed ?  Thanks, Brian

If you choose to go that route the 3 oz. containers should be enough to do at least a couple pairs of caps.

[Brian Conway]

Thanks for the reply.  Brian

[Anghelrestorations]

I'm not sure I would do the gun blueing vs the phosphate and oil on those pieces as visible as they are.  Doing that by hand on hood hinges not sure how good that can look.  I have only done that on smaller parts really.   

[Brian Conway]

OK and thanks for the caution.  I guess a re think is in order.  Brian

[J_Speegle]

I think you might be fine with the look of gun bluing  on those shock mounts. Have worked for me. Would give it a try (pretty cheap to do and easy to change) and see how it looks compared to the other P&O finishes in the engine  compartment.

I've also used it to touch up pieces that were P&O'ed  if the repair area is not too large

Wish I had know this was going to come up today - was at the shop and could have taken some side by side comparison pictures

Just me

[sportyworty]

Just go buy a jug of prep and etch (Phosphoric Acid) at Home Depot for 15.00 bucks
Drop them in a stainless pot at about 180 degrees for 20 min. Done then wipe them with some motor oil and let them sit for a day. I have been Browning, Blueing and phosphating  Zinc (GM)and Manganese (Ford)all week here.
Cold Blueing is not durable and provides almost zero rust prevention. Just be sure the parts are stripped clean first Brian.

[Brian Conway]

     Thanks Kerry.  Great suggestions.  So my next two questions are;  where to get something big enough to hold the 2' shock tower braces and is sand blasting the parts necessary ?  Brian

[sportyworty]

Welcome Brian

Restaurant supply store.
 
Chemically strip or wire wheel the steel parts unless you have glass bead a tumble capabilities.

[67gtasanjose]

Berryman in the 5 gal with a basket:
http://www.berrymanproducts.com/products/carb-and-parts-cleaner/berryman-chem-dip-professional-parts-cleaner/

I always liked the results...makes easy work of tough to clean engine parts but a clean bucket can do "paintables" too! I like having 2 buckets, one for the really cruddy stuff and one for a final clean (or carbs)...then simply change in a new bucket regularly. Time is money too, this stuff saves a lot of time.

Hood hinges/latches, door latches, trunk latches...easy-peasey!

[Bob Gaines]

     Thanks Kerry.  Great suggestions.  So my next two questions are; where to get something big enough to hold the 2' shock tower braces and is sand blasting the parts necessary ?  Brian

FYI the 2' shock tower braces are typically painted. Where your Metuchen braces un painted?

[Brian Conway]

FYI the 2' shock tower braces are typically painted. Where your Metuchen braces un painted? 

They are currently painted and it seems they are correct.  Everything else listed is P & O.  Thanks,  Brian

[1967 eight barrel]

DO NOT WIRE WHEEL!!!!!  Bead blast them with a fine glass bead. If you use a wire wheel they will come out more of the blue gloss side.
Use the Birchwood-Casey de-greaser before you use the Perma-blue.  You can use the cotton swabs or a cotton cloth. Coat them and let them process for about five minutes, keeping them saturated with the perma-blue the entire time.
Take them in and rise and wash them in lukewarm water. Pat them off and spray the hell out of them with Birchwood-Casey Barricade. ( Used to be called Gun Sheath) and comes in a 10 oz spray can. I put them in a ziploc bag and left them until I am ready to use them.

[J_Speegle]

DO NOT WIRE WHEEL!!!!!  Bead blast them with a fine glass bead. If you use a wire wheel they will come out more of the blue gloss side.
.................

Have to disagree - 
Used a wire wheel for many years (brass brushes) and have been very happy with the final finish for bare stamped steel finishes such as rear shock plates

Just my experiences

[sportyworty]

+1