Topic: disc rotor wear limit

[67gtasanjose]

You can still get the original style rotors. It uses the original disc brake hub, which you'll have to press the wheel studs out to separate the rotor from the hub. Part Number is: 6004RGS. They are available via OReilly.
Nominal is: .0810 Minimum thickness is: .780. Runout is: .002.

I am trying to figure out how to restore the hub being they have been glass beaded and painted Eastwood's Detail Gray.
Here are pictures for reference.

I hope this is helpful.
                                                                             -Keith

Keith, you might double check this figure 

Bob,
it too .004 to true one and .007 for the other.

Too bad the new rotors themselves are not too even in the first place, did you happen to have them checked before pressing them together with the hubs?

[1967 eight barrel]

I did not have them checked for run out prior to assembly, however, pulling the studs in, I would imagine has a huge chance of distortion. Be SURE to lubricate the splined area on the studs, it really does help in pulling them in.
                                                            -Keith

[67gtasanjose]

I just got my pair in. I cashed in a "Professional's Coupon" (I had my store price-match my local warehouse for the typical hub/rotor combo bought for under $31 each )

I spun them on my brake lathe, very pleased, less than .001" runout

Here are a couple of images. Looking for ideas to make as Concours as possible. I suppose I should machine off the stampings but what about the machining the manufacturer did for balancing? Maybe leave it alone?

[1967 eight barrel]

By the way, they are sold under Raybestos brand name as well.

                                                                         -Keith

[Smokey 15]

By the way, they are sold under Raybestos brand name as well.

                                                                         -Keith

Just make sure they are American made.  Last Raybestos wheel cylinders I purchased were made in china, complete with metric bleeders. 

[67gtasanjose]

Just make sure they are American made.  Last Raybestos wheel cylinders I purchased were made in china, complete with metric bleeders.

DREAMER ON FORUM! DREAMER ON THE FORUM!

There are VERY FEW things still made in this country, just because a name USED TO BE "American", never assume it is.

In the situation of these rotors, the particular item of the discussion, NOBODY AMERICAN nor WORLDWIDE has been known to be manufacturing the original design, two piece hub, separate of the rotor, ROTOR used on the 65-67 Mustangs (for maybe about 10 years? Maybe longer???)

Keith happened onto a supplier who did but noted, they are MADE IN CHINA.

[Bob Gaines]

By the way, they are sold under Raybestos brand name as well.

                                                                         -Keith

Just checked Raybestos company website and they only list "Disc Brake Rotor and Hub Assembly". Nothing else.  Not a big surprise that it is obsolete with them also but I was hoping for something different.

[67gtasanjose]

Just checked Raybestos company website and they only list "Disc Brake Rotor and Hub Assembly". Nothing else.  Not a big surprise that it is obsolete with them also but I was hoping for something different.

I happened to be addressing this note ALSO, and can confirm, only the HUB/ROTOR as an assembly.

Bob, and recommendations to using the ones I pictured yesterday? I felt I should machine off the stampings at least. What are your thoughts, given the "unavailable" aspect of these original type rotors. I have 2 original and another service replacement but only one original is barely under spec without truing it up again and the one service replacement is about the same. The 2nd original is way too thin.

[Bob Gaines]

I just got my pair in. I cashed in a "Professional's Coupon" (I had my store price-match my local warehouse for the typical hub/rotor combo bought for under $31 each )

I spun them on my brake lathe, very pleased, less than .001" runout

Here are a couple of images. Looking for ideas to make as Concours as possible. I suppose I should machine off the stampings but what about the machining the manufacturer did for balancing? Maybe leave it alone?

You may want to spray cast blast in between the ribs on the edge leaving the machined outer rim. Same same on the inside ribs . Flash rusting in the rib area is the most common place it is visable. Of course treat the machined areas with something like boe shield or at least a clear.

[Smokey 15]

DREAMER ON FORUM! DREAMER ON THE FORUM!

There are VERY FEW things still made in this country, just because a name USED TO BE "American", never assume it is.

In the situation of these rotors, the particular item of the discussion, NOBODY AMERICAN nor WORLDWIDE has been known to be manufacturing the original design, two piece hub, separate of the rotor, ROTOR used on the 65-67 Mustangs (for maybe about 10 years? Maybe longer???)

Keith happened onto a supplier who did but noted, they are MADE IN CHINA.

You may say I'm a dreamer.... But I'm not the only one.   Once you get chinese brakes, there will be no stopping you.   

[67gtasanjose]

You may say I'm a dreamer.... But I'm not the only one.   Once you get chinese brakes, there will be no stopping you.   

   WOW, "Imagine" that!

Hey John Lennon, be nice 
I could quote Supertramps Lyrics for "Dreamer", 2nd verse might fit here rather humorously...but I'll play nice
Love the play on words

[1967 eight barrel]

Stop stirring the pot, Rich.. I'll have to jump on the bandwagon.  After dealing with far too many idiots on the job over the years, I have become a very proficient smart ass. 

On a serious note: You saw in the in-cut out, on edge of the rotor " made in China" too, I read.

                                                                                                          -Keith

[Bob Gaines]

You may want to spray cast blast in between the ribs on the edge leaving the machined outer rim. Same same on the inside ribs . Flash rusting in the rib area is the most common place it is visable. Of course treat the machined areas with something like boe shield or at least a clear.

After painting the inside fins try and machine off the stampings on the edge.  That edge and the separate hub are what is going to be seen once wheel is mounted. The separate hub and lack of stampings on the edge will be the defining factor of if "assemblyline like' .

[1967 eight barrel]

Bob, did you see the strange inset on the rotor where the venting is on these?

                                                                                  -Keith

[Bob Gaines]

Bob, did you see the strange inset on the rotor where the venting is on these?

                                                                                  -Keith

It must be some kind of fixture holding area for machining of other areas of the rotor. Not much you can do with that. The main thing is that it is separate from the hub IMO . Taking off the stampings on the edge is just icing on the cake to make it less noticeable it is a replacement .it is till better then the one piece IMO.