Topic: 1967 strut rods.

[1967 eight barrel]

What color should the strut rods be on a 1967 Shelby? I blasted them the first time and painted them in a steel. Is that correct?

[Bob Gaines]

What color should the strut rods be on a 1967 Shelby? I blasted them the first time and painted them in a steel. Is that correct?

The strut rods on a 67 Mustang regardless of Shelby or not would be bare steel. I start out with a unpitted pair and put them in a tumbler to make them look as new.ypu need to use a metal preservative if going that route. Stainless steel paint will put you on the right path to a historic look.

[jwc66k]

The strut rods on a 67 Mustang regardless of Shelby or not would be bare steel. I start out with a unpitted pair and put them in a tumbler to make them look as new.ypu need to use a metal preservative if going that route. Stainless steel paint will put you on the right path to a historic look.

I don't have a tumbler and suspect that most restorers don't either, so I revert to bead blasting and a light phosphate and oil treatment. When I say "light", I mean the phosphoric acid is about half what is the recommended amount for the amount of water and "cook" the items in the acid bath for 1 1/2 to 2 minutes instead of the normal 10. The temperature is the same, 180F minimum (I like 195F), and the oiling is the same. For long items, I use an 18 inch long stainless steel fish poacher (e-bay, $20) and stainless tools to pick up the end sticking out and place that end in the bath, swapping ends about every 20 - 30 seconds. Strut rods should have a darker look as they were heat treated. They should not have a light metallic look surface finish. After the oil is absorbed or dissipates, that may take a month, you can apply the identifying paint (if any). Boeshield T9 is a good treatment after the identifying paint.
Jim

[Bob Gaines]

I don't have a tumbler and suspect that most restorers don't either, so I revert to bead blasting and a light phosphate and oil treatment. When I say "light", I mean the phosphoric acid is about half what is the recommended amount for the amount of water and "cook" the items in the acid bath for 1 1/2 to 2 minutes instead of the normal 10. The temperature is the same, 180F minimum (I like 195F), and the oiling is the same. For long items, I use an 18 inch long stainless steel fish poacher (e-bay, $20) and stainless tools to pick up the end sticking out and place that end in the bath, swapping ends about every 20 - 30 seconds. Strut rods should have a darker look as they were heat treated. They should not have a light metallic look surface finish. After the oil is absorbed or dissipates, that may take a month, you can apply the identifying paint (if any). Boeshield T9 is a good treatment after the identifying paint.
Jim

Jim ,I don't mean to contradict on purpose but I have had many NOS strut rods and they are not darker steel like a typical heat treated steel like coil springs or sway bar. If you bead blast and zinc phosphate they would need to be gone over with steel wool to somewhat shine back up for a historic look. I will zinc phosphate a part that as small imperfections then put it in the tumbler as the zinc phosphating will somewhat fill the minor surface imperfections for a better smoother look. Just what I do. I used to do the stainless steel paint but was not happy with the look so I broke down and got the tumbler .It hurt a little when I bought it but my satisfaction level is better.

[rockhouse66]

I like the look of the gun blue on these items.  Blast then treat with the gun blue, then steel wool to the preferred darkness (lighten when rubbed with the steel wool)  They will need Boeshield or something on them to protect them.

I would also prefer the tumbled look, but most do not have that option readily available.

[gtamustang]

Bob is correct. the strut rods are bare steel with no darkening from a hardening process.

I don't have a tumbler and suspect that most restorers don't either

Some of do have a tumbler big enough for strut rods and most suspension parts. Take a look in the services offered section and you will see that Charles Turner offers a tumbling service and it is pretty cheap. He and I are co-owners of anawesome tumbler and we don't mind helping others.

Regards,
Pete Morgan

[jwc66k]

I guess a show and tell is in order. The attachment shows 64-66 strut rods I bead blasted and phosphated a couple of years back. As long as they are out, I'll douse them is some oil. Compare the finish to the power steering brackets.

Jim