Topic: Convertible power top electrical issue

[Chris]

I was raising the top of my 64 1/2 convertible with the power top switch and the top suddenly stopped rising about 1/3 of the way up. The sound of the motor just stopped and then nothing worked, the power top switch had no effect and no sound was coming from the motor. The top just slowly sank back down on its own.

I need assistance with what is most likely the cause...the motor, switch, power top circuit breaker? I was hoping someone has had this issue before and could save me from checking everything with a volt meter.

[CharlesTurner]

Start with the circuit breaker at the solenoid first.  After that, check the switch and then go to the motor.  Not much to the system.

Had a bad motor in a car recently, it would make clicking noises when the switch was engaged.  Swapped out for another motor, all fine.

[jwc66k]

I was hoping someone has had this issue before and could save me from checking everything with a volt meter.

A voltmeter is your friend.
Jim

[Richard P.]

You can use a test light to check for current also.

[Chris]

I just got back to testing my power top issue. I checked the power going to the power top wire that connects to the starter solenoid and it has power. I went under the dash and found the wire feed that supplies power to the switch. I unplugged the power top switch and checked the feed coming from the battery with a volt meter and it has power. Since power is available at the switch but the switch does not activate the motor, I'm taking the switch to be bad.

I removed the rear seats and examined the motor (pics below) but did not see any obvious issue. I was going to order a new power top switch. Thoughts on my diagnosis?

Thanks.

[jwc66k]

Go the extra step. If possible, with power coming in to the switch, use a jumper wire around the switch. Do it quick, but the motor should show signs of life if the switch is bad.
Jim

[Chris]

Jim,

Need confirmation on how to use the jumper.

Place one end/clip of the jumper in the female end of the wire feed coming from the battery (and that branches off to the motor) and the other end/clip on the three metal/male ends of the same wire, to close the circuit?

The wire feed that the switch from the dash connects to has a female/enclosed connection where I registered power. Then there are some male ends (think two). Use the jumper wire on these?

[jwc66k]

Now you got me worried. Do you have the wiring diagram? Mine show the black wire in the top switch connector as battery (hot), the red and yellow in the connector as the "feeds" to the motor. A jumper from the contact that is for the black wire to either red or yellow contact should make the motor do something, go up or go down. Try the red first as the diagram has that above the yellow. Of course, Ford could have drawn it the other way around.
Jim

[Chris]

Used a jumper wire, connected one end to the female end of the top feed that connects to the battery and connected the other end to either male end (guessing one is to raise and one is to lower the top, depending on switch activation up or down). I got no response from the motor. There was 12.3 volts coming out o the female end of the top wire loom. Picture of my connection is attached. I had to remove the dash light gages to get access.

Chris

[Chris]

OK. Went back and did what you said. Connected one end of the jumper to the power feed/contact on the wire loom that gets power from the battery and feeds the motor. I then inserted the other end of the jumper into the switch feed for both yellow and red female contacts. Got no response from the motor.

Chris

[jwc66k]

Chris,
  Position a battery near the pump motor; run a wire from the negative terminal to the chassis, aka ground; run a second lead to either pin of the connector at the pump motor. If the motor moves, change to the other pin just to verify the motor. If the motor doesn't do anything, it's the motor.
Jim

[NEFaurora]

Had the same problem one time... It turned out to be the log Black Ground wire that runs from under the dash going underhood all the way to the starter solenoid.  The black wire looked intact, but it was'nt...There was a break inside the wire internally.  I found the problem after I ran two jump wires put together and routed around the original ground wire.. Once I did that, everything worked again.. so thats how I knew that it was the ground wire. I ordered a new ground wire..and the rest was history..

)

Tony K.

[Chris]

I gave in and ordered a new switch and motor from VCM, it arrives today. I'll let you know how it goes. I should be able to just plug in the new switch (not install in dash) to the underdash harness and test it that way. If it does not actuate the motor then on to motor swap out. If I have to change out the motor, what is the procedure to bleed out the air in the line?

[Chris]

I plugged in the new power top switch and the motor pushes fluid in the lines (can see fluid moving and hear the flow) but nothing else happens, no pushing up or down of the hydraulic lifters. Guess motor change out is next.

[WT8095]

I plugged in the new power top switch and the motor pushes fluid in the lines (can see fluid moving and hear the flow) but nothing else happens, no pushing up or down of the hydraulic lifters. Guess motor change out is next.

Now that the pump motor is turning, have you checked the fluid level, bled air out of the system, and looked for leaks?