Topic: wrong coil spring compressor?

[socalgt]

I have a coil spring compressor to remove the frt. springs on my '67.  When trying to use it, the threaded rod contacts the spring perch before the spring is compressed enough to remove....I assume it's the wrong compressor for this job....looks like I need one that has a spacer of some type that won't allow the head of the threaded rod to slide all the way down to the top hooks, which allows the bottom of the rod to hit the perch?

[Bob Gaines]

I have a coil spring compressor to remove the frt. springs on my '67.  When trying to use it, the threaded rod contacts the spring perch before the spring is compressed enough to remove....I assume it's the wrong compressor for this job....looks like I need one that has a spacer of some type that won't allow the head of the threaded rod to slide all the way down to the top hooks, which allows the bottom of the rod to hit the perch?

Or you don't have the top portion far enough up near the top of the coil.

[dave6768]

I had the same thing happen just two weeks ago.  I found a piece of 1/2" sch 40 pipe and cut it to about 3" in length.  I belt sanded the ends to get them straight and smooth.  I slid it over the threaded rod so it's at the top sticking out the shock tower hole.  Worked like a champ.

[socalgt]

Realized the problem is no "spacer" between the top claw and the bolt head...saw a clever video showing how to buy a 4 1/2" pipe and putting it between the top claw and the bolt head...keeps the bottom of the threaded rod from bottoming out before the spring is compressed.  Worked fine.

                                                                                             Thanks....

[socalgt]

Were the springs originally installed at the factory with just the thin, insulator between the top of the spring and the underside where it mounts?  I want to make sure I'm not forgetting something. ( It doesn't look there's much of a lip to hold the top of the spring in place)

[jwc66k]

Here's my home made spring compressor. It's based on the Ford tool. It compresses the spring while the spring is still in the car. When the upper A-arm is free, remove it, then lower the spring and remove it. It takes me less than five minutes per side.
Pic 1 - disassembled.
Pic 2 - assembled.
Pic 3 - Ford's tool.
Mine uses a 5/8-18 threaded rod and nuts with a lot of washers at the top greased well for turning. The ratchet wrench makes it easier.  Snap-On Tools sells one that works well.
The type that uses two "hooks" on the inside of the coil is useless. 
The bottom of the spring "fits" in a recess in the spring perch, the top has a stop built into the underside of the shock tower. The only metal spacer I know of is only used on convertibles. There is a rubber "insulator" that is used on the tops. NOS spring perches have a rubber insulator for noise reduction. It was not used on early (thru at least 67) cars.
Always remember, the spring has a LOT of compression so keep clear.
Jim

[socalgt]

Just to clarify installation.....unless spacers are used....is the only part between the actual coil and the upper spring perch, the insulator...nothing more to center the spring?

                                                                                                                  Thanks...

[67gtasanjose]

Just to clarify installation.....unless spacers are used....is the only part between the actual coil and the upper spring perch, the insulator...nothing more to center the spring?

                                                                                                                  Thanks...

I removed ONLY an upper insulator from my 11/66 produced '67. I noticed no other insulator(s) or anything else, even on the lower spring perch/pivot.  The lower side of the coil in the spring simply bottomed out in the pivot at the stop (alignment of the coil). For what it's worth, when I took it apart last year, it was the first time the upper arms were ever removed under my watch (since Spring of '78) and there were no signs of any work at all on the front end suspension or steering previously (at that time in '78). Back then, it needed in '78 lower control arm bushings, strut bushings and an idler arm to get it an alignment so I only did what was needed. Upper Ball joints went in around 1985, and ONE spring perch bushing in '97. That is all. (not counting power steering work)

[Bob Gaines]

Ford didn't start using rubber insulators on the spring perch's until the 70's. If it has them on a 65-70 the perch's have been replaced.

[cobrajetchris]

I have a coil spring compressor to remove the frt. springs on my '67.  When trying to use it, the threaded rod contacts the spring perch before the spring is compressed enough to remove....I assume it's the wrong compressor for this job....looks like I need one that has a spacer of some type that won't allow the head of the threaded rod to slide all the way down to the top hooks, which allows the bottom of the rod to hit the perch?I have a coil spring compressor to remove the frt. springs on my '67.  When trying to use it, the threaded rod contacts the spring perch before the spring is compressed enough to remove....I assume it's the wrong compressor for this job....looks like I need one that has a spacer of some type that won't allow the head of the threaded rod to slide all the way down to the top hooks, which allows the bottom of the rod to hit the perch

You have the compressor upside down, turn it so the threaded rod goes up through the shock tower hole not threading down to the perch. What has worked well for me with the finger type compressor is to let the weight of the car help you compress the spring. What I mean by that is jack up the car and placed the jack stand under the frame rail at the torque box area then install the spring compressor. Place the fingers on the second rung of the springs upper and lower as I have found if you go to the last rung the spring will tend to twist and be unstable. Once in place then put the jack under the lower control arm and jack it up letting the spring compress. You will have to use a open end wrench to turn the nut on the spring compressor. Make sure the spring is compressing even or it may come loose. Remember Safety first as many people have been injured by compressing springs but if caution is used the spring can be safely removed. If you are replacing the spring be sure to compress the spring on the floor side ways so if it comes loose it has nothing to bounce off of and go flying. I will measure the distance I need to compress the spring (between the tower and the perch and measure my progress as the spring compresses on the floor. Hope this helps you out.