Topic: Battery, Tilt, Booster and Fuel Sending Unit

[68 S Code]

Hey guys I'm back! Its been a few years since i've been posting here but i strayed away from the Mustang once the restoration was completed. Now its time to fix a couple of issues which have popped up.

First is that the original fuel sending unit just has never worked properly. I read an old thread and Tim L suggested an NOS versus one of the over the counter repops. Jeff S said he tried rebuilding an original using a repop for parts but was unsuccessful. I assume since my application is a 68 S Code with a July 68 production date the C8ZZ-9275-C with the 3/8" line is correct for my application. If I do get an NOS unit do you think it will be good to go out of the box or I will still need to calibrate it?

Next on the list is I need to get a new battery. Planning to drive it a bit this year so a reproduction Autolite is not necessary. I am thinking battery technology has come a long way in 50 years. I don't want a rusted out battery tray or apron. What would you guys suggest? An Optima? Maybe something else? I need the CCA amps for the 390.

Anyone out there who can help with a tilt column. The column worked fine until I decided to swap out the turn signal mechanism. Fought with the install and now the column doesn't want to tilt. I don't know what I did to goof it up?

Finally the brake booster. Ever since I finished the restoration the brakes have vever worked right. At idle and slow speeds I hardly have any brakes.  Almost as if its a non power brake car. The engine has a stock cam and we checked vacumme which seemd fine. As you get going about 40 mph and step on the brakes they seem fine. My son and i took a vacumme pump to the booster after removing the plastic plug and coulding pump up the booster. Is the diaphram shot? All i did was refinish the booster figuring it would be OK but maybe after sitting idle for 20 plus years it went bad. Any recommendations on someone who can rebuild it?

[68 S Code]

Well i did a search and found Laurie S' post on how to convert an old repop Autolite Battery with a new battery inside the old case. I do like the thought of putting a gel battery inside so will look into that. Now all i have to determine before I start cutting is weather that battery I have is actually a repop. I've had it since the mid 80's and just recently found it in the attic of the garage. Wouldn't want to hack up an original. I may have to do a search to see what the differences are.

[Bob Gaines]

Well i did a search and found Laurie S' post on how to convert an old repop Autolite Battery with a new battery inside the old case. I do like the thought of putting a gel battery inside so will look into that. Now all i have to determine before I start cutting is weather that battery I have is actually a repop. I've had it since the mid 80's and just recently found it in the attic of the garage. Wouldn't want to hack up an original. I may have to do a search to see what the differences are.

Post a picture of the top from about a 1 foot looking straight down and one of the bottom about the same way.

[ruppstang]

Just guessing but you tilt problem may be that a wire may not be routed correctly or bunched up causing the tilt to bind up.
I can not tell much with out seeing it.
Marty

[68 S Code]

Bob, Ill try to get that pic tomorrow. I remember from a few years back that there was some sort of mark on the bottom of an original.

Marty there is a very good possibility that there may be some binding with some wires. I don't believe I routed them correctly because I had a heck of a time with the install. When I push down on the ring with the stalk it doesn't want to tilt. It worked fine before I started screwing around with the switch assembly.

What are your thoughts on the fuel sending unit. It doesn't appear that any of the repops are any good. Should I just bite the bullet and go NOS?

[markb0729]

Try Mustang Barn for a fuel sender.  They sell a repop that is recalibrated to read correctly.  I bought one from them after talking with Dan Nolan about the repop sender problems others have encountered.  Unfortunately, I can't comment on it as I have not used it yet.  You can reach them at 1-800-523-6708.  Here's the online link:

http://www.mustangbarnstore.com/SPD/64-8-fuel-sndg-unit-brass-float--2244142412081398000.jsp

[68 S Code]

Thanks for the heads up on the fuel sender. I found out that original units are date coded. Looking at an NOS unit and if the date code does not match I may go with the repop for now.

Here are some pics of that Battery I found taking up space. I'm guessing its a repop from the 91, 92 stamping on the bottom. Possibly 1991/1992 production date?

[Bob Gaines]

Thanks for the heads up on the fuel sender. I found out that original units are date coded. Looking at an NOS unit and if the date code does not match I may go with the repop for now.

Here are some pics of that Battery I found taking up space. I'm guessing its a repop from the 91, 92 stamping on the bottom. Possibly 1991/1992 production date?

The repro data sticker on top is different compared to a original too.

[Bob Gaines]

FYI the repro batteries are nice for a 68 or 69 and the correct looking battery sticker is available with various date codes from ECS.

[68 S Code]

Bob thanks for the heads up about the ECS sticker. i needed to get ahold of Dave about something else anyways. So now that i have a core which could be cut up, I guess where is the best place to make that cut? Up high or better to just cut the bottom out? The bottom may make drilling and tapping the posts difficult. I do have an original battery shield so I'm thinking that would cover up a cut up high.

[Bob Gaines]

Bob thanks for the heads up about the ECS sticker. i needed to get ahold of Dave about something else anyways. So now that i have a core which could be cut up, I guess where is the best place to make that cut? Up high or better to just cut the bottom out? The bottom may make drilling and tapping the posts difficult. I do have an original battery shield so I'm thinking that would cover up a cut up high.

i have seen it done both ways . I think going in through the bottom works the best. That is the way I have always done it.

[68 S Code]

Bob so when you say bottom just cut an opening in the bottom to fit up over the top of a slightly smaller battery? Would you suggest a gel like an Optima? Or this new glass mat technology? I just don't want battery acid ever again on the battery tray or apron below it. I've had good luck with the cranking power of an Interstate MT-34 which may be a bit bigger than the MT-24 (Group 24 battery i believe) for the 390. laurie may have mentioned a Miata sized battery but I have some of those (Miatas, dont laugh) and they are tiny.

[67gtasanjose]

Some discussion from a thread last year:
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=8564.msg51632#msg51632

[Bob Gaines]

Bob so when you say bottom just cut an opening in the bottom to fit up over the top of a slightly smaller battery? Would you suggest a gel like an Optima? Or this new glass mat technology? I just don't want battery acid ever again on the battery tray or apron below it. I've had good luck with the cranking power of an Interstate MT-34 which may be a bit bigger than the MT-24 (Group 24 battery i believe) for the 390. laurie may have mentioned a Miata sized battery but I have some of those (Miatas, dont laugh) and they are tiny.

I have had problems finding a smaller battery for the inside that would  successfully spin a hot fe engine . smallblock engines are much easier.

[WT8095]

I have had problems finding a smaller battery for the inside that would  successfully spin a hot fe engine . smallblock engines are much easier.

Have you looked at Odyssey drycell batteries? I have used a motorcycle sized one for a 200 six. It lasted about ten years, and that's through Minnesota winters in an unheated garage. The battery sat each winter without a trickle charger. I don't know if they have one that would be big enough to turn an FE and still fit inside an original battery case. Many of them have bolted on brass terminal posts. The posts can be removed, leaving nice screw terminals to use for the conversion.