Topic: Heater Box

[Brian Conway]

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CCQQFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fforums.vintage-mustang.com%2Fvintage-mustang-forum%2F593767-remove-1969-heater-box.html&ei=UmAYVY6BOdTYoATy8oA4&usg=AFQjCNHizf526vwWyZFwlWhcB6UlnYKKcQ

[13Outlaw]

I apologize for not responding until now. I am replacing the tq boxes etc.

[Vcode]

I presently have mine out of my car and am rebuilding it.











A question I have is what type of sealer is used on the case?
I found a hard type sealer that was used where the two black case halves meet. I was able to chip it out with a screw driver.

There is also a sealer used where the metal housing part was riveted to the box and also where the blower motor plate attaches to the metal housing. It was still gummy.

Thanks,
Dale.

[13Outlaw]

Dale, nice work I will be doing the same thing, hopefully someone will chime in and have some insight on what to use.
Thanks
Shane

[Vcode]

Shane,
I got the heater box done and installed over the weekend.
I used screws to put the case back together - I was afraid rivets might damage the fiberglass.
After I glued the seals on I couldn't get the door housing to fit into the case.
It was a very tight fit. I had to remove the seal on the edge where the door housing screws to the case. The seal was causing the door housing to sit too high.
I also had to remove one of the triangle piece that fit on the ends. The fit was so tight it was rolling seal up.
The seals in the kit I bought are not like the originals. The original triangle seals were still on the door housing when I removed it. It was a very soft open gray type foam. The seals seal are a lot stiffer.
My case was warped at some spots to maybe that is what caused the problems

Dale.

[13Outlaw]

Dale,
That looks real nice! Two questions, did you repaint the case? Did you buy new metal for the inside or just sand and paint it? Mine is pretty thin and had some rust. If you did buy new metal, where did you get it? Thanks!

[Vcode]

Shane,

I did not paint the case.
I only painted the door assembly and heater core holder.
I also painted the blower motor & cage and the motor mounting plate.

I reused the door assembly and heater core holder.
My door assembly need work. I blasted the door assembly then had the holes filled with filler.
I do not know if the door assembly is available?



I never got a response on what sealer to use and when I asked around locally everybody had a different opinion.
I ended up just using black RTV - so if I had to take it apart again I could.
I only used sealer on the big metal housing that attaches to the case and where the motor plate bolts to the metal housing.
I did not use any sealer where the case halves fit together.

Hope this helps.

Dale.

[jwc66k]

I do not know if the door assembly is available?

That control assembly looks like the same one used on 64 thru 68 (non-air conditioning) heater boxes. I'll let others confirm. If so, find a donor.
As to the door, are you referring to the above, or the door that allows air into the passenger's area?
I do like the RTV fix you used, whatever it takes.
Jim

[Vcode]

That control assembly looks like the same one used on 64 thru 68 (non-air conditioning) heater boxes. I'll let others confirm. If so, find a donor.
As to the door, are you referring to the above, or the door that allows air into the passenger's area?
I do like the RTV fix you used, whatever it takes.
Jim

The door assembly picture I posted is for the Temp Control (Cool - Warm).

[jwc66k]

I did a quick review and can't seem to find what year car that heater is used for. I did check Ford Car Parts and the item is called "Valve, Heater Temperature Control" by Ford, is common for 64 thru 68 Mustangs, p/n C0DZ-18A545-B.
Jim

[13Outlaw]

Dale and Jim, thanks for the info. Dale the pics are a big help, I'll be doing the same as you and repairing them.
Shane

[13Outlaw]

Dale, quick question, I am thinking I can get away with not taking the large metal piece off of mine. Any input that would make me want to reconsider? Not that I want to cut corners, just not sure I see the need? Thanks again!

[Vcode]

Dale, quick question, I am thinking I can get away with not taking the large metal piece off of mine. Any input that would make me want to reconsider? Not that I want to cut corners, just not sure I see the need? Thanks again!

How does your Heat / Defrost lever work?
Mine was bent and very hard to move.
I needed to trim a little bit of the rubber seal that is attached to the Heat / Defroster door and my case was warp a little that area.
No way to get to the door out unless you remove the metal housing.

By the way around last Christmas time I paid a visit to the Mustang Shop in my area they had one of the repo 1969 Heater Boxes in stock.
The case is a black plastic - not fiberglass.
I checked it out and couldn't move the Heat / Defrost lever. I had both hands on the lever and couldn't not move it.
We looked to make sure wasn't any shipping foam or something stopping the door from moving, but there wasn't. I asked the counter person and they didn't know why it wouldn't move. I noticed there was a name on the box - so I think this was a return.

Dale.

[13Outlaw]

Ok makes sense.. I didn't drive mine much before I started restoring the car, but my last 69 was hard to move. I remember this one being easier, but when it's out on the floor it is stiff.. So looks like I need to, thanks for the input!
Shane

[Vcode]

Do you remember what screws you used instead of the rivets to reassemble the box?

They were #8 or #10 - can't remember exactly which one it was.