Topic: 67 deluxe interior black paint - episode xxx ;-)

[Fastback2013]

The interior of my (Fastback) car is in a 2 tone Ivy Gold finishing.
So the amount of black paint is rather little.
As I can figure out :
- speaker grills in doors
- center console + radio bezel
- vent slide grille of upper quarter panel
- inside of gauges
- heater box
- ...
Is it correct to assume that the flat black paint is the same for all those applications?
When comparising all those parts it seems (to me) that there isn't much difference in tone?

Concerning the center console : was there also a protection (of clear) coat on top of the black paint?
Each time you maintain the interior of your car, you rub over real paint (in case it wasn't protected), so that isn't real strong?
A second question concerning the center console is the finish of the cups where the seat belt cups are placed in.
I do not have those (insert) cups for the front seat belts, but which is the correct finish? (black or bare metal or ??)

In attachment a collection of pictures where the flat black must be painted (red arrows) because I have re-chromed all my interior parts, accept the last picture of the speaker grill (assumed if it is all the same black paint).
If it is the same paint, then I can search for the correct paint, since my speaker grills aren't redone (yet).

I hope that it sounds (a bit?) consistent 
Thanks for the effort.
Kind regards,
Jeroen

[Bob Gaines]

I think flat black is a incorrect way to describe the sheen in the speaker grills and air vent in upper grills. I am not familiar with the console pieces but would think they would follow.  Flat black indicts devoid of any sheen at all. As items in the field ,speaker grills in your picture and NOS parts indicate there is some sheen . Although a variation of sheens exist between parts semi gloss would be a more appropriate discription then flat given the slight sheen.

[ruppstang]

Flat is incorrect. I use a satin black on all of those parts.
Marty

[Fastback2013]

Thanks for the reply's.
Do forgive me when I used the wrong term for describing the 'black paint'.
Apparently there is a difference between flat black and satin black, (or) semi gloss black.
Can U provide a branch of paint that would be correct?
Or is it the save st way to take a sample of the black of the speaker grills?
Can I then paint all the necessary parts with the same black paint?
Would the restoration of the heater box be also correct then?
Kind regards,
Jeroen

[J_Speegle]

First they don't have to be all the same level of gloss or flat - they would not have likely been originally. We see this all the time - for example all the pulleys, brackets and engine compartment all the same "color" Remember that most of these things your redoing were painted miles from each other with different paints in different conditions likely months apart from one another.

The gauges is often a version of a blue that when applied and built up gives a black look.

Door grills to me are a bit glossier than the heater door (guessing you have no AC - you didn't mention) The heater "box" or main body was not originally black nor painted

Yes you can paint them all the same paint on the same day - different conditions can produce different finished looks

Not sure if your shooting from a gun or from rattle cans - or even what is available in your area of the country or world.  For rattle cans (when used) I often use one of maybe 6 different brands to get the different looks and finishes. I shoot them all on a nailing bracket (in this case a flat approx 4" x 8" piece of metal used to join wood studs together)  available at any lumber yard. This is the style with just holes not with the spiked points

Then take and spray out a 1-2" band of paint on the plate/bracket so that I get an example of each finish one next to another. I know Charles has done the same with rattle cans and out of a gun in the past. 

Then use that as a guide to choose the finish closest to original.

Just what has worked for me.  Brands available locally for me in rattle can include SEMS (touches up well but is more stain than semi)  - Trim black,  Kyrlon Semi-gloss - not semi-flat , Duplicolor - engine black (not engine paint) , OSH in house brand,

In the past I've baked the steel parts I've rattle canned to improve the finish, look and hopefully the longevity but on the pieces your doing this is not an option for many and you will find that some paints will not handle the bake.


As far as some of the console questions - no clear coat over the black paint. Takes many years to wear through the original paint in normal daily use as a driver so would expect as a weekend and show car it will last a long time unless your wiping it with something abrasive or with chemicals

[Fastback2013]

Hello Jeff,

Another great thanks for all the effort for replying all those questions!
It's like calling a encyclopedia 
I can certainly understand the fact that there where much different suppliers and that each would use what they have at hand, not necessarily meaning that it was all the same paint/finish.

As for the gauges, that I didn't know that it was a kind of blue. Very interesting. Could U give some more explanation about that? All I can say/see when I look at the gauges that the centerpiece looks black 

U are correct; I do not have AC, so it is mainly the heater door that must be taken care off.

I must admit that I do not paint all those pieces myself. I do not have the time neither the craftsmanship for doing that myself. It is therefore that I must give my (professional) painter as much as details/information as I can possible can. For that I can not thank you enough !
They always spray it with a gun, not rattle cans.
I live in Belgium and apparently it is not possible to ship rattle cans to here, so I need the 'correct' code/number for the paintings. I have send an email to PPG and there is not a problem to ship paint in boxes, but I must be certain that I order the correct paint/number.

I have all the samples from my original pieces, and I (well, somebody else  ) can reduplicate them, but my problem is that I am not sure for nothing on my car.
Which is authentically, and which is been replaced through the years.
When U have just one car (and I am truly happy that I have one  ), you can't compare. That's why I must relate on your experience and your efforts to help my further.

Also thanks for the explanation for the console. So do not seal them off with a layer off clear coat. It is true that I will not use abrasive or chemicals 

Have a great sunday.
Kind regards,
Jeroen

[J_Speegle]

As for the gauges, that I didn't know that it was a kind of blue. Very interesting. Could U give some more explanation about that? All I can say/see when I look at the gauges that the centerpiece looks black 

Got to ask at this point - are you asking about the Gauges or about the gauge bezel? The surround

I do not have AC, so it is mainly the heater door that must be taken care off.

No it can be shot attached. Just takes allot of masking and care. IMHO easier than replacing the rivets