Topic: Heater Hose Tube - 6 Cyl

[suskeenwiske]

I've become increasingly curious about whether or not the Nut was originally designed to move freely around the Tube; I tried but couldn't budge it...any more pressure would have bent the Tube.

Other than it being rock solid, it has all the earmarks of an Inverted Flare Fitting.

I'd hate to start this engine up when the time comes and find water spraying every which way, so I'd rather ask if anyone has any information about this.

Thanks

Ray

[CharlesTurner]

Is this pipe required for A/C cars?  If so, I would have to agree that it's a flared fitting.  You could probably rent a coolant system pressure tester to check for leaks before cranking.

[WT8095]

It sure looks like a compression fitting. A tube with a solid fitting would be difficult to get properly aligned in this spot, as it has to be pointing the correct direction when the threads tighten up. Plus, it looks like the valve cover would be in the way, which makes for an awkward order of assembly/disassembly. Seems really unlikely that Ford would use anything but a compression fitting in this situation.

Can you tell if the nut has straight threads, or are they tapered? Generally speaking, a flare or compression fitting will have straight threads and the nut should turn. If the threads are tapered, it's not a compression fitting and the nut should be solidly attached to the tube.

[C5ZZ]

Ray,
I noticed the same thing on mine, it is a flare fitting so originally the
nut would have spun freely on the tube, any water etc that got on
the tube over time would have been trapped in the clearance that
was there so now the nut basicly is locked in place. When I installed
mine it tightened up to where the tube pointed in the correct location
and hasn't leaked, just make sure the flare seating area is clean and
in good condition and you should be fine.

[suskeenwiske]

I'll give breaking it loose another shot. Let it soak in WD-40 for a while and heat if that doesn't work. Right now I have to remove the Valve Cover and loosen a Rocker Arm just to get it off...better now than later.

Thanks all.

Ray

[GT500KR]

Ray,

 After removing it, try putting the nut end in a vise. Position it so that two of the "flats" on the nut line up with the jaws on the vise. Be sure to protect the nut from the jaws with wood, or something else that will not mar the part. Tighten the vise so that it squeezes the nut just a bit. BE CAREFUL! This will create a barely perceptible distortion of the opening, making it oval shaped, breaking the tension and allowing the penetrant to flow in between the nut, and the tube. Don't squeeze it too much! Let it sit, then remove from the vise and turn to the next flat. Squeeze, oil, repeat. Do the next flat the same way. Then take the pressure off slightly and with the nut still in the vise, wiggle and turn the pipe with slight pressure down as if you were trying to screw it through the nut, until it starts to move. If it is still stuck, repeat the oil and squeeze process, and try again. Sometimes if you quit, then sneak up on it the next day when it least suspects it helps too! 
Apply heat only as a last resort.

 Check the flare, and the matching face in the fitting, clean it up, and install.

 This method has worked for me in the past, Good luck!

[suskeenwiske]

Thanks...makes perfect sense; patience is key and heat is definitely my last resort.

Ray

[1966sprint]

I have my pipe out and being repaired, due to be picked up tomorrow.  It had severe corrosion on the hose side.  Looked for someone to make a new one for me first, was not successful. The local shop was planning on brazing a new end on the tube.  I figure the repair will be covered by the hose.  Getting it out of the brass fitting on the engine was not a problem fortunately.

[suskeenwiske]

Well, I applied a lot of heat followed by a cold bath several times and then soaked it in WD-40 for 24 hours before it finally broke loose. To my surprise, I found very little rust but did find an abundance of some sort of sticky compound that resembled old gasoline varnish.

The Tube was a little out of round and only took a few scrapes with a razor blade to fix. A good soaking in lacquer thinner should finish the cleanup before I can restore the appearance.

Ray

[GT500KR]

Congrats!    It gave up after just the right amount of torture 

[suskeenwiske]

For now anyway, but it's not connected and under pressure yet...who will have the last laugh, parts like these can be very sinister!

[NEFaurora]

I thought the pipe was only used on the Thermactor 200 6cyl cars.

You're all saying that it was used on A/C cars as well?

)

Tony K.

[suskeenwiske]

The 6 Cylinder Secondary A/C Support Bracket that bolts to the Main Bracket and the Engine would interferes with the routing of the Heater Hose.

The Tube goes around this bracket making it far more serviceable and prevents the Heater Hose from kinking or chafing against the Bracket were this Tube not there.

These are some Internet Photos, (not my car), that I found to show how it works. The earlier Photo in this thread is of my Engine minus the Brackets.

Thanks

Ray

[NEFaurora]

Funny, My '66vert originally came with A/C though it never got the pipe, then again, The A/C was Dealer installed.  That's probably why.  Interesting!

)

Tony K.

[CharlesTurner]

...The A/C was Dealer installed.  That's probably why.  Interesting!

Yes, most definitely why.