Topic: Unibody Restoration: cut & weld before or after media blasting???

[67gtasanjose]

Allot of restorers are now choosing not to replace the whole pan but sections as needed since the factory welds are so hard to get right. Also saving good sections provide a guide for the floor color, overspray patterns and such to be used later

+1 Here in the rust belt, this is the norm. Depending on the caliber of job expectation, the #1 choice of clamping the sections together (not shown in the article) is using these style clamps: (do your own shopping)

http://t.harborfreight.com/8-piece-butt-welding-clamps-60545.html?utm_referrer=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2Furl%3Fsa%3Dt%26rct%3Dj%26q%3Dbutt%2520welding%2520sheet%2520%2520metal%2520clamps%2520harbor%2520freight%26source%3Dweb%26cd%3D1%26ved%3D0CB0QFjAA%26url%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.harborfreight.com%252F8-piece-butt-welding-clamps-60545.html%26ei%3Dl5bYVNfLAcyfgwTPm4S4Bw%26usg%3DAFQjCNGvakW_PVuf9WjwiWf7x38he9EPEQ%26sig2%3Dm6qO19r_MT17SyTFmwCqbQ

http://offer.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewBids&item=181656173036&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2565

These are very helpful in keeping panels aligned and help to prevent panel warping. HEAT is your enemy, everything must be kept cooled down.

Another trick for filling larger gaps between butt welded sheet metal panels is to take a body straightening dolly and using a trimmed piece of copper sheeting, form it around the dolly (trimmed to fit snugly and peened into shape around the body dolly. Using this fabricated body dolly and the copper sheeting, place it behind the gap in between the panels. The welding will not stick to the copper and the welder will fill the gap using less heat transferring into the metal.