Topic: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.

[NEFaurora]

Subject: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.

This is a new thread that I am creating here to document and offer resolutions to this 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.  When the problem starts, You turn the ignition key, and you will here a Clicking or knocking/banging sound from underneath the dash.  I have searched all of the web, and the resolutions offered for this problem are extremely poor.  Anything of good use will be put here in this thread to address this problem since it is so "Rampant" in Ford Mustangs from 2005-2009 and beyond and other Ford vehicles.  This thread will mostly focus on the S197 platform since this IS a Mustang forum.  I expect this thread to eventually be the "Go To" place for this issue on the entire web.  Since I have this issue currently in my own 2007 Ford Mustang Vehicle, I will eventually post up pictures and video to help deal with this issue and help people resolve the problem without having to go to the Ford Dealer and Spend over $600 to get it fixed when their car is no longer under warranty.  I only ask that Any/All posters of this thread Please stay on target and Please do not veer off of the subject too much.  Thank You all. 

Tony K.

[NEFaurora]

To Start this thread,

Here below is a typical example of the problem.   This guy below in the video had no idea what the problem was, but his video beautifully shows the issue.



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Tony K.

[NEFaurora]

From what I currently know:

There are (4) Blend door actuators behind the dash.  (1) is behind the dash cluster and panel, and the other (3) are behind the glove compartment area.  (3) of the actuators are all the same part number, but (1) of them is different, with a different part number.  I do not know which one yet.

Still investigating.

Here is a weblink to another forum talking about the subject with some other links as well:

http://mustangforums.com/forum/2005-2014-mustangs/680494-is-your-ac-making-clicking-noises.html


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Tony K.

[NEFaurora]

Here's another weblink that I found, but some real pics of a REAL car would really help here.  I aim to fix that soon.

Check out this weblink on the subject.. Some good info:

http://www.schematicsdiagram.com/2012/03/how-to-replace-blend-door-actuator-on.html

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Tony K.

[rodster]

Interesting, I never heard this on my 09 GT but then again, it's still under warranty. 

What does Ford do to fix it?  Sounds so common there should be a TSB on it?

[67gtasanjose]

From what I currently know:

There are (4) Blend door actuators behind the dash.  (1) is behind the dash cluster and panel, and the other (3) are behind the glove compartment area.  (3) of the actuators are all the same part number, but (1) of them is different, with a different part number.  I do not know which one yet.

Still investigating.

Here is a weblink to another forum talking about the subject with some other links as well:

http://mustangforums.com/forum/2005-2014-mustangs/680494-is-your-ac-making-clicking-noises.html


)

Tony K.

You are dealing with a problem that is not related to Ford products alone. I work as a mechanic and have seen this mostly on GM vehicles. The amount of work depends what actuator has failed. In the case of the first Youtube video you posted, it sounds like the "mode door" actuator.

Secondly, there will be codes stored in the BCM to verify what problem(s) are going on. Many times the dash could need removed, making a bad idea for a basic do-it-yourselfer to attempt doing it. Besides, without a code verification, you could have more than 1 of the 4 actuators on the fritz and how would you like going back in and pulling the dash a 2nd time?
Just my 2 cents and I pray my 05 stays well behaved 

[NEFaurora]

"Interesting, I never heard this on my 09 GT but then again, it's still under warranty.  " - All I can say is, It WILL happen soon, Hope it happens before the warranty expires.  There are already people complaining who own 2012 and 2013 cars that have the issue.

"What does Ford do to fix it?"  - Ford does fix it under warranty free of charge, but if the warranty has expired, You are on your own!  (S.O.L.)

"Sounds so common there should be a TSB on it?" - There is a TSB on it, but it basically says just to bring the car to your Ford Dealer for service... Go figure.  The average charge is about $600.00 for the repair (On just one Actuator!) - Highway robbery if you ask me.

All of the (4) actuators are accessible underneath and behind the dashboard cluster.  The only problem is that you have to be on your back and have a good flashlight to get the ones under the dash behind the glovebox.  Mine of course was the one behind the dash cluster that went bad.. so I'll be dealing with that one, but checking the others as well behind the glovebox as well.  There is some good news with this.  One is that the actuator replacements from Rockauto.com and O"reilly Auto Parts are on about $30 for each actuator.  The other good news is that when you have a bad actuator, You can tell it's bad by it's knocking sound.  You Just have to feel the actuator to see which one knocks.  That is the good news.  The bad news is that you have to get on your back finally and do the job yourself!  I'll take some back muscle pain VS. having to pay a dealer $600 bucks.  That is a good trade off.  If you are overweight and can't get on your back, Then perhaps paying the dealer is the only option, But the goal of this thread is to make is less painfull and easier for everyone.  The previous poster is correct about GM Cars and Trucks also having the problem.  Those actuators in the GM vehicle are differently design, but still have the same basic issue.  The NYLON GEARS strip and go bad, but they are removable.  I wouldn't be surprised if somewhere down the line if someone were to come out with a kit with the identical gears in a repair kit made of aircraft aluminum to finally solve the problem.  The auto industry really CHEEZED out when it came to making these actuators.  Usually, You'll get 3-4 years of use out of one before it finally goes bad.  The good thing for us though is that the (4) Mustang Actuators are relatively easy to get to - to replace compared to other vehicles, with the one behind the dash cluster being the hardest, but even that one is not too bad.   You really don't have to run any codes to find the BAD actuators, They will be knocking like all hell and will be easy to find.  After installing the replacement actuators, You can cycle through the whole A/C system to see if the problem disappears.  After a full cycle of the A/C system, If there is no more knocking heard, and everything works correctly, You are done.  No codes need to be run to do this fix, although it would never hurt of course.  Since owning my 2007 Mustang Convertible, This Actuator problem has been THE ONLY real problem that I have ever had with my car, other than having to re-glue the door vinyl on my door panels..but that was easy..and didn't cost a penny!  The car has been diehard reliable with no ther complaints.

I'm going to order my actuators soon, and will start the project documenting everything here with pictures and most likely video as well. with my IPOD 4S Touch.

)

Tony K.

[NEFaurora]

The (4) Actuators themselves are only held in by 2 screws, and one plastic clip plug that easily comes out.  The big trick is that once you go to replace one, You have to make sure that actuator plastic crank pin fits correctly into the hole that it came out of when you go to replace it with a new one.  That is the big trick.  It is difficult to see when you are on your back!...lol...

Tony K.

[rodster]

All I can say is, It WILL happen soon, Hope it happens before the warranty expires.  There are already people complaining who own 2012 and 2013 cars that have the issue.

Hmmm, still a problem on the new cars? Too bad Ford didn't make an improvement. 


Guess I better get cycling through mine to get them to fail -before- the warranty runs out! 

Slightly off topic, but these type of problems are the reason I consider starting to trade up every few years to always have something with a warranty.

[ChrisV289]

Mine went out on my 09 as well but was covered under the extended warranty.  What sucks is a weld broke on my catalytic converter and that is not covered.  They want$1700 to fix that (1200 - part, 500 labor).  ordered a direct fit replacement from Summit for $410 and will do it myself.  Dealers want way to much to fix things...

[NEFaurora]

The 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater issue seems to be the only major gremlin in the 2005-2009 cars.... That's pretty good if you look at the big picture.  The only other known issues I know with the S197 platform are the gas tank filler problem on the '05 and '06 Models, and the '05 and '06 Convertible rear windows coming unglued by themselves.  These issues were both fixed with the '07 Models.  I don't know of any other major S197 issues....Ones that matter anyway.. Re-gluing s197 vinyl on door panels don't count...lol...

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Tony K.

[rodster]

The 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater issue seems to be the only major gremlin in the 2005-2009 cars.... That's pretty good if you look at the big picture.  The only other know issues I know with the S197 platform are the gas tank filler problem on the '05 and '06 Models, and the '05 and '06 Convertible rear windows coming unglued by themselves.  These issues were both fixed with the '07 Models.  I don't know of any other major S197 issues....Ones that matter anyway.. Re-gluing s197 vinyl on door panels don't count...lol...

)

Tony K.

That's good to know.    I like my 09 and the body style so not anxious to trade up.

Is the Actuator the actual cause of the problem?  Wait, I think I hear mine clicking now....better get them all changed before the warranty expires. 

[Deuce]

These issues were both fixed with the '07 Models.  I don't know of any other major S197 issues....Ones that matter anyway..

At 90K miles I had the dealer change the spark plugs for scheduled service; I opted not to attempt myself because of all the bad press.  I think I read somewhere that the replacement Motorcraft plugs are of improved design to lessen the chance of breaking off in the spark plug holes.  So, not sure if considered an issue or not, anymore.

[NEFaurora]

Well Ok!

It was gorgeous outside today here in FLA... About 72 degrees and not too Sunny..  A perfect day for my A/C Blend door actuator repair project.  Well, I dug into it!  Dreading this project for months knowing what was in store, I tore into my 2007 Dash and didn't look back.  I took quite a few good photos which I will post here soon!  I might do a video also on it.  We'll see.   Anyway, I took out the dash cluster and I located the "problem" hidden actuator located all the way to the right side right behind the dash cluster.  If you have huge hands, Don't even attempt this project.  You have to contort your hands quite a bit.  I have average size hands and it's been quite a bear, but I was able to get in there and remove the Actuator.  The bottom screw of the actuator I was able to screw out, but the top screw, You can't even get to it, so I had to break off the corner of where the 2nd screw is attached in order to get the actuator out.  The top 2nd screw, You can't even get to, but I have a small plan for that as well.  Since the actuator was being replaced as I said, I just broke off the corner of it just to get it out..so putting in a new actuator, It will obviously have a new unbroken corner hole so I can finally put the top 2nd screw back in where it belongs.  Seeing as how you can't even get to the top 2nd screw of the actuator, I am going bust out my dremel and cut-off wheel and do some minor plastic cutting so I can maneuver an 8mm long closed loop wrench to attach the troublesome top 2nd screw.  I tried using every 8mm tool known to man to get the 2nd top screw out..and no dice.  It's in a weird spot, and the A/C plastic return plenum chamber is in the way of the bolt, but you can move the plastic chamber up with a little force to kind of feel the bolt with your hands. By cutting out a small piece of plastic with the dremel, This will solve the problem of being able to get to and tighten the screw.  Why Ford didn't do this, I have no idea.  It's just a small piece of plastic that I have to cut out..About an inch to inch and a half.. No big size... The dash cluster will cover it all and no one will ever see it.  I will update with new pics to come that I took today.  I don't know what the designers of Ford were thinking when they designed the area around this 2nd top screw of the actuator.  So Stay tuned!

PS: Just for kicks, I took apart the actuator and of course, It had two broken teeth off of one of the main nylon gears.. no surprise.

)

Tony K.

[67gtasanjose]

...I am going bust out my dremel and cut-off wheel and do some minor plastic cutting so I can maneuver an 8mm long closed loop wrench to attach the troublesome top 2nd screw.  I tried using ever 8mm tool know to man to get the 2nd top screw out..and no dice.  .

Having been a mechanic at a dealership and as a self-employed professional mechanic for over 30 years now, I have to say there ARE shortcuts that benefit having to do things "By the book". I will always be "FOR" doing shortcuts that do not require butchering the car to accomplish the job with 100% reliable work. I have heard and seen countless horror stories of things the "hacks" have done at the dealerships (and private garages, car owners etc.) to save time. In the professional world, EVERYTHING is commission-based, so the faster you get done, the more money you take home. This inspires the "shortcuts" but promotes doing "hack-jobs". There are limits to how much "corner-cutting" I support.

Let's just say, should my '05 GT ever need the actuator behind the cluster...and since I have "big hands", I'll look for another way to do this particular job. Maybe a video WILL help those of us who may eventually need to do this. Maybe it isn't as bad as your written description sounds (to me anyways) and it really is a good way to "Gitt-'er-Done" but an inch to an inch and a half of chopping sounds like an awful lot IMHO.

Well, sorry to write what probably sounds harsh but I've had to repair messes made after shortcuts. Sometimes the cost of those repairs exceed the value of the cars. Shortcuts concern me till I can actually SEE the proof of time-saved vs. quality of the job done.

Richard