Topic: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.

[rodster]

Take a good look at the inside of the Actuator and you can now see why these things don't last.  Look at the White Nylon cog on the Uppermost left...See The missing Teeth??  It's stupid crap like this that gives car companies a bad name.  A 35 cent broken piece on a $40,000 car = lots of trouble that could have been avoided.   I would "assume" in the future that "Someone" - Scott Drake (AHEM!)...will probably come out with a light alloy cog replacement set to replace the cheap Nylon Plastic cogs that are in there.  The actuator is actually a Serviceable unit believe it or not!   

Same problem with '98-'00 Contour sunroof motors. No one has made a replacement gear so a good part to look for in junkyards assuming you can find a good one.

Seems Ford doesn't learn....

[drummingrocks]

Without trying to derail the thread (again?), here are some images and instructions from the 2005 Mustang Ford service manual (12/04 edition, should be similar for '05-'09), images that can help assist any reader in choosing their own battle of gaining access to that screw. I included all of the dash removal procedures too, (again, not to derail the thread) to show the alternative "by the book" method. Keep in mind that the complete REMOVAL of the dash is over-stated, it would appear you only need to loosen and move the dash away about an inch or two back, leaving most of the wiring and such attached.

Nice, I agree that it'd be worth trying to loosen the dash rather than cut the area mentioned.  Since this is such a widespread problem, I too believe that the aftermarket will eventually come up with a gear made of a different/better material, kind of like they did with the nylon gears in Fox-body convertible quarter windows.  If this many of these actuators are breaking just a few years into ownership, imagine the fun we're going to have 40 years from now!!   

[NEFaurora]

"If the cycling of the actuator is minimized.."

Dude,

ALL of the actuators recycle once the ignition key is turned.  They are programmed to all go into a recycle mode right before the car starts once they get juice going to them.

Good luck with that one.

I found this out when I first investigated the issue.

)

Tony K.

[rodster]

"If the cycling of the actuator is minimized.."

Dude,

ALL of the actuators recycle once the ignition key is turned.  The are programmed to all go into a recycle mode right before the car starts once they get juice going to them.

Good luck with that one.

I found this out when I first investigated the issue.

)

Tony K.

Really?

Great....   

Uh, don't start the car so often or keep it running instead of shutting it off....

[NEFaurora]

By the way, In case anyone was wondering, My 2007 Mustang V6 only has 79,000 miles on it.  Low miles considering its age..

I plan to wrap up this project soon, but I got sick with the flu this last week and a half and its been raining like cats and dogs here in FLA this past week.  I'm waiting for things to dry up a bit.. It might be another week before I can get back on this project to complete it.

)

Tony K.

[NEFaurora]

I got back on this project this morning...  I was able to get the "hard to get to" top hex screw out from the broken corner of the actuator from behind the dash...It took me almost an hour to get it out.  I have been working this project awhile, and it has been a learning process indeed.   I have come to the absolute conclusion as I listed earlier above that in order to get out the "hard to get to" actuator behind the dash cluster,  You can remove the bottom Hex screw for it lying on your back from underneath the dash, but for removing the top screw, You MUST break off the corner of the Bad Actuator with the top screw still in, in order to remove the Bad actuator.  No way you are going to get to that top screw.. No way.  Once the corner is broken off, the Actuator comes right out through the top of the dash.  Now that the old actuator is out, You can now barely get to top hex screw with the broken off corner, and remove it, but you can get to it.  Putting it back in once the New actuator has been installed is totally different story.  So far, I installed the new actuator from the top of the dash, and made damn sure that the plastic pivot pin is in it's pivot hole (VERY IMPORTANT!, If the plastic pivot pin is not installed correctly in its correct position, You will jam and ruin the new actautor!..so make damn sure that the plastic pivot pin is in its correct place in the slot.)....then after the actuator was correctly positioned with the pivot pin installed in the slot, I went underneath the dash on my back again and tightened the lower hex screw of the actuator to secure it nice and tight, but not mother tight..  I then went back above again and made sure that the plastic pivot pin was still in the slot, It was, and it and the actuator were nice and snug and not going to go anywhere.  I then tested the entire A/C system...  and Voila..!!!!!  The problem was fixed,  The actuator works as it should...and now I have nice cold blowing A/C.   I am debating whether I should waste anymore time in my life to try and install the top actuator "hard to get to" -should really be - "impossible to get to..Top Actuator screw"...  I might just leave it out since the actuator is tight enough with the lower center screw holding the entire actuator on.  The actuator is not heavy..and it's not going anywhere...so I may just leave it out as this project is coming to a close.   *** I did find out though that it's not necessary to take your entire dash apart to do this job....Just follow along my procedure as I did above, but I also found out that It's also NOT necessary to cut any plastic to get to the Top actuator screw, since even if you did so, You still would not be able to tighten it anyway...with the Hard plastic Vent Plenum behind the dash in the Mother F'n way..So you can completely IGNORE my rudimentary Cutting photos listed above since it's just not necessary...  You'll most likely just leave out the top actuator screw as I will probably do since it's really not necessary to complete the project and make things work.  Job Done, and You're on the road again...but this time with the A/C completely working again blowng cold...and no Knock...Knock...Knock....!!!


Well, That's all for now...  I'll add some more pics of some of the other actuators later to round out this thread....

)

Tony K.

[Deuce]

Thank you for the great write up and documentary! 

I guess the rest of us can expect these issues sooner or later.  But then again, I wonder what percentage of any year is affected so far?  (Only the Ford dealers would know and they probably aren't talking...).

If the actuators cycle with every start up, then it's apparent those cars with higher usage will fail first.  My 2008 is a daily driver with 142K miles and so far, all is quiet...

Thanks again,

[NEFaurora]

"My 2008 is a daily driver with 142K miles and so far, all is quiet..."

Wow...You're really.really lucky with that kind of mileage..

)


Tony K.

[Sharee Moana]

I have had this problem as well.  2007, V6, 128,600 miles.  This started little over a year ago.  Would only happen when using AC so it didn't bother me (like in the winter) as much as it does now that it happens every time I start my car.  I love my Mustang.  Learning more about fixing stuff on my car, thanks to YouTube, in my 30's since my dad has been sick however I haven't had a whole lot of luck with this.  Guy at the place I get my oil change wanted to diagnose for $80 to see which piece was clicking but wouldn't quote me on the cost of all of the pieces.  So that's a no-go.  Any help or advice is welcome!  So glad I'm not the only person that has this problem!

[jjjefferson]

Oh Joy!  I get to work on this very same motor on my 2007 Mustang GT with only 45,000 miles on it.  I tell ya...this is the crappiest Quality Control  vehicle I have ever owned!!!

I've had to have the convertible top replaced at 32K ...guess what...extended 7 year warranty DIDN"T cover that.  Yeah...the rear window seal went...but they only cover '05 and '06 on the TSB....I was screwed.
Had both lower control arms replaced at 25K
Had leaks in the trunk from day 1.  Multiple trips to the STealership where they just kept filling body panel joints with silicon goo.
The CD player no longer works and just clicks at you every damn time you open the door.  Kills the battery if you let it sit over winter (which this care has NEVER seen)
The AIR Bag's have been replaced on both driver and passenger after multiple trips to the STealership because the dash light just kept coming on.
The leather panels on the doors are now peeling off.

And now the drivers side HVAC door motor is going click click click.....  45,000 miles...all Mid-Atlantic highway driving...no snow...ever.  8 years old.  Anyone want to buy a "Cherry" Redfire Mustang GT V8 Convertible?   LOL.   

Thanks for the pics.  It looks like I only need to take off the Instrument panel cover and then the panel itself to get "some" access.  3 hours on my back sweating my b*lls off trying to get a socket up there....just ain't happening.  Tomorrow the battle resumes.

JJ

[67gtasanjose]

Oh Joy!  I get to work on this very same motor on my 2007 Mustang GT with only 45,000 miles on it.  I tell ya...this is the crappiest Quality Control  vehicle I have ever owned!!!

I've had to have the convertible top replaced at 32K ...guess what...extended 7 year warranty DIDN"T cover that.  Yeah...the rear window seal went...but they only cover '05 and '06 on the TSB....I was screwed.
Had both lower control arms replaced at 25K
Had leaks in the trunk from day 1.  Multiple trips to the STealership where they just kept filling body panel joints with silicon goo.
The CD player no longer works and just clicks at you every damn time you open the door.  Kills the battery if you let it sit over winter (which this care has NEVER seen)
The AIR Bag's have been replaced on both driver and passenger after multiple trips to the STealership because the dash light just kept coming on.
The leather panels on the doors are now peeling off.

And now the drivers side HVAC door motor is going click click click.....  45,000 miles...all Mid-Atlantic highway driving...no snow...ever.  8 years old.  Anyone want to buy a "Cherry" Redfire Mustang GT V8 Convertible?   LOL.   

Thanks for the pics.  It looks like I only need to take off the Instrument panel cover and then the panel itself to get "some" access.  3 hours on my back sweating my b*lls off trying to get a socket up there....just ain't happening.  Tomorrow the battle resumes.

JJ

As I have said before in this post, I would still suggest this job is NOT one for a "D0-It-Yourselfer" unless you are a very skilled person with access to service manuals/procedures/tools needed to do the job. (by the book)

Besides a dealership, that it looks as though you have a 0% faith in their skills based on your description of repeat visits over the same issues, THERE ARE QUALIFIED SHOPS with people (wherever you might live) who can do this job at a more than reasonable rate.

Try looking for shops specializing in AC Service and repairs. Auto Body shops often have the skills and tools needed to pull dashboards back enough to accomlish this job without having to cut things out of the way for access.

As a auto repair shop owner, I do these kinds of jobs several times a year. Every time I get one, I research the procedures beforehand because I need to know how to estimate the job. Usually, jobs like these do cost $400-$600.

When we buy a new car, we seem to be willing to pay $400-$600/month for the life of a loan to an impersonal  bank or institution (60 months or longer) but when we have to cough up a "month or two of payments" for a repair to a family man trying to put food on his table and also just pay his bills...we cry and howl at the moon.

Again, we are talking about a potential FUTURE CLASSIC CAR here...I have a 65 Mustang at the shop right now that has had such work done to it over the years...Is is CRAZY t think this "one job" will not matter if I do it this way. Small compromises add up over the years. My suggestion is to not start doing them in the first place.

[okicombo]

I am an auto tech, not so much a Ford enthusiast, but I came across this thread and thought I should share.
I have had an 09 come back twice due to the clack noises. Originally we unplugged them one at a time to isolate and replaced the three culprits with Dorman brand actuators. On the first return trip, the following week,  I found two of the Dorman actuators making new noises so I replaced them with oe Ford actuators. All was well for a week then it came back again so I yanked the last Dorman out and put another oe Ford actuator in. Holly shit. What a Frickin joke. I've been doing this for over twenty years and don't remember seeing this kind of mess.
Anyway thats all I got. We shall see if it stays gone this time.

[67gtasanjose]

... I found two of the Dorman actuators making new noises so I replaced them with oe Ford actuators. All was well for a week then it came back again so I yanked the last Dorman out and put another oe Ford actuator in.

Also being a tech and shop owner, I have to agree OE parts many times are a better way to go. (but not always). I try and weigh the savings over doing a job twice. Since any "savings" are passed on to the customer, while any DEFECT you assume full liability on...it really makes a difference in how I will quote a tough job like these can be.

Something else I have to wonder about and because I have used Dorman actuators before too (without any problems) I wonder if there is something binding the doors on these Mustangs that cause this problem. Case in point, I have seen GM vehicles that have a rubber wiper inside the air ducts on the air doors. The rubber gets brittle and breaks of, binding up the door. MAYBE something like this could be occurring on these Mustangs?

[GT500KR]

 I hate to see all you guys struggling with this. Some times shortcuts turn in to "long cuts". I've fallen into traps like that, and they are never fun.

 That being said, do yourself a favor, and PULL THE WHOLE DASH OUT!

 Sounds crazy, right? in the past,  (in the 70's, 80's, 90's) it was a nightmare. But modern cars are built in sub-assemblies to make the build easy at the plant. This makes it easier for us too. Only hitch is you don't have the "fixture" they use at the plant, so you'll need a helper to get it out. Just pull the cluster, knee bolster, some trim panels, (most have little or no hardware, just snap on and off), and about a dozen bolts. A couple of big wiring connectors too. Take 1 bolt out of the steering joint, and the whole column stays with the dash.

 I've done it. You will be amazed at how well that dash is assembled, and engineered. Follow the instructions on the PDF. With a helper you can be done in a couple hours, to an afternoon, depending on your skill level.

Hope this helps.

Charlie

[Wide13]

I did this repair last week on my 09 GT and thought I would pass along some tips and reaffirm some that I got from this thread.

Lower the steering wheel.  I did not need to remove mine.
Pop the trim around the instrument panel out.  It just pulls straight out.
Undo the four screws holding the instrument panel in and lay the panel on the dash out of the way but still plugged in.
The actuator you are looking for is on the right side of the speedometer hole in the dash.  You can see the bottom screw and a red clip on the wiring.
Pull out the trim piece on the left of the radio.
Undo the two screws on the bottom of the lower dash piece and pop it out.  You have to kind of twist it to get the left edge out.
Pop out the light switch and undo the two plugs.  It will start pinging like you have left your lights on.  You can now get the lower dash piece out of the way.
Replug in the white light switch plug and the beeping will stop.
Get a short 5/16 wrench, preferably with a ratchet built into the closed end
Lay on your back and undo the bottom screw on the actuator from underneath the dash
Pull the actuator out breaking off and leaving the top screw still in.  It comes off pretty easily.  Make sure to pull it out and up.  Undo the plug on the actuator.

The hard part about this job is the top screw is literally behind the plastic pipe that goes to the left dash vent.  You can see it through the two holes where your instrument cluster is.  The only way I was able to get to this screw was to roll up a small towel (think bathroom hand towel size) and put it between the metal frame and the plastic pipe.  Then push the towel as far to the left as possible.  This will lift the pipe up an inch or so and you can get to the top screw from underneath the dash.  It won't be easy and you will have to contort you hand to get the wrench around it, but you can.  Once it's lose you can undo it with your fingers.

On the actuator next to the lower screw hole, there is a small cutout that looks like a + sign.  Where your actuator goes there is a small plastic tab sticking out that looks like a - sign.  The tab goes into the horizontal part of the + sign.  This lines the screw holes up and holds the actuator in place so you can put the screws back in.  Make sure the tab coming off of the arm of the actuator is inside the hole of the vent door assembly.  If they don't line up, move the vent door assembly to match the position of the actuator arm, not the other way around. 

Put in the bottom screw first (easy). 
Put in the top screw last (hard).  Once you have it in by hand, I was able to tighten it about halfway with my small wrench/ratchet but then the actuator body got in the way.  I just left it and have had no problems with it.  In retrospect, I think I could have used a small socket head and a flexible socket driver to finish it up, but I'm not taking it apart again for that. 


Plug the wiring harness into the actuator.

I think like the earlier guy said, the bottom screw and the tab holding it in are probably enough if you can't get the top screw out.  This part is very light and the arm doesn't move very far or with much force.

Tips:

The towel thing is key

To put the right trim panel back on, you will need to pop up the center console a little.  Just pull up on it and it pops up.

Put a shop light in the spedo hole in the dash to backlight while you are working underneath.

DO NOT PLUG IN AND RUN THE ACTUATOR UNTIL IT IS MOUNTED  it will spin all the way around and probably break something inside.
I did this, and then the Dorman cheap one made an immediate clicking sound worse than the first one did.  So I had to run to Ford and get an OEM one that works great. 

So I've basically done this twice from top to bottom.  First time with trial and error took me 3 hours.  Second time took me about 45 minutes.