Topic: door striker question

[poboy427]

I pulled off my door strikers on my Nov 65 built car and notice there is a rubber piece under the post. I was looking to send them out for fresh gold zinc until I saw the rubber. I realize new ones are avail but I was trying to save the 10 65 date code on one and 11 65 on the other. What are my options?
Ray

[poboy427]

I'm thinking about trying to source another pair to send out for gold zinc. I've seen some restored so perhaps they can be bathed without worrying about the rubber/vinyl under the pin roller. I should practice on a pair before sending out my original pieces.

If that does not work I thought about cutting the back rivet to separate all and then when back from the gold zinc,reassemble and mig the pin back in place being careful to zap it with the welder one strike at a time with the wire welder-cooling the entire unit between welds so as to not melt the area in question.

Lastly, I see variances in these things. Some stamped with a W and some with a S and some with variance in the date code area. Is the W like on my Shelby indicative of SJ strikers?

[jwc66k]

I've sent several sets out to be gold zinc plated and had little problem with the rubber. The temperature of the zinc bath is not the problem, nor is the acid, it's the baking to reduce the residual hydrogen, somewhere around 400-450F. I've also done some prep work, re-stake the striker to the plate (big hammer and a big drift pin) and filed down any "dings" on the striker, then bead blasted the entire assembly. Don't forget the plates between the striker and door, they're gold zinc too. The screws are clear zinc.
Jim

[poboy427]

Thanks Jim,

I was just wondering about the screws. Repos are gold zinc and the original look to be silver and now you confirm. Also phillips head bolts have unique head markings too.

My plater wants $100 min for each color. I will source a pair to throw in with my latches and give him a shot to see how he does but it will cost me another hundred to get my originals done as I'm running out of stuff to make an order.

Lastly Jim, was the phillips screws on the SJ door latches gold or silver-hard to tell?

Ray

[jwc66k]

Those screws are not Phillips Head drive but another similar drive called Pozidrive. The "cross" is wider on the screw with a more blunt point. I use a hand impact tool and a 3 pound hammer to remove and install those screws. Lots of thumbs get smashed in doing that. The finish on the screws in the latch is -S8, clear zinc. Inspect the door sheet metal carefully around the latch's screws for cracks.
If you have a set of the Mustang Assembly manuals, you can look up the pertinent data in a spreadsheet in the library.
Jim 

[67gtasanjose]

Those screws are not Phillips Head drive but another similar drive called Pozidrive. The "cross" is wider on the screw with a more blunt point. I use a hand impact tool and a 3 pound hammer to remove and install those screws. Lots of thumbs get smashed in doing that. The finish on the screws in the latch is -S8, clear zinc. Inspect the door sheet metal carefully around the latch's screws for cracks.
If you have a set of the Mustang Assembly manuals, you can look up the pertinent data in a spreadsheet in the library.
Jim

Not to Hijack the thread ...
Because these HAND HELP impacts tend to be abusive to the operator and the sheet metal objects POUNDED ON...I LIKE THE AIR CHISEL ATTATCHMENT

This tool is one of my best friends: 

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=&item_ID=636879&group_ID=675907&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

[poboy427]

Yes I have the snap-on hand impact tool. All bolts/screws came out nicely. One screw on each latch had tool marks from PO so I replaced them from another junk door I had. Clear zinc on the hardware and gold zinc on the latch and striker. I see a lot of guys lump the hardware in with the latch and striker and gold all but it is the little details that make the difference.

Now if the plater dude doesn't loose them

Thanks again for all the help and hopefully this helps others as well.

Ray

[jwc66k]

Not to Hijack the thread ...
Because these HAND HELP impacts tend to be abusive to the operator and the sheet metal objects POUNDED ON...I LIKE THE AIR CHISEL ATTATCHMENT

This tool is one of my best friends: 

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=&item_ID=636879&group_ID=675907&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

You are 100 percent correct about self-abuse use. I do have a question though, how long of an air hose do you use at a junk yard? 
Jim

[rodster]

Not to Hijack the thread ...
Because these HAND HELP impacts tend to be abusive to the operator and the sheet metal objects POUNDED ON...I LIKE THE AIR CHISEL ATTATCHMENT

This tool is one of my best friends: 

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=&item_ID=636879&group_ID=675907&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

Hmm, so you use the hammering of the air chisel and turn the attachment with a wrench?  Never saw this before.

[67gtasanjose]

Hmm, so you use the hammering of the air chisel and turn the attachment with a wrench?  Never saw this before.

Yes, I feather on the air trigger while light effort turning the screw.  Not only on striker screws but since I live in the rust belt, it helps with rusted fasteners and many many other situations requiring help. By the "hammering" of the air chisel is more of an in/out motion, it prevents the twisting off of the fasteners that threads are rusted by "shaking" the rust from the threads. IT also pounds the socket driver in while the turning effort is being applied so it prevents stripping out the fasteners drive points.  Differentials transmissions and transfer cases often have a 3/8" square drive fill plug and here in the rust belt, often are stubborn to turn. 

A very-very handy tool that I use very very often and will always find new uses as time goes on.  They sell them in 1/2" drive also.

You are 100 percent correct about self-abuse use. I do have a question though, how long of an air hose do you use at a junk yard? 
Jim

Jim, I haven't worked in a junkyard since the early 90's...there isn't a hose long enough to bridge that distance
....but I see they have portable compressors on the back of their yard buggies these days and besides, I wouldn't be surprised to see electric hammers like the electric, battery-operated impact wrenches (previously air chisels/hammers)

They are always making a "better tool", I have the hand held impacts...but I usually only use the bit sets with the tool I speak about here.

Richard (FORMERLY known as the "Junkyard Dog")

[rodster]

Yes, I feather on the air trigger while light effort turning the screw.  Not only on striker screws but since I live in the rust belt, it helps with rusted fasteners and many many other situations requiring help. By the "hammering" of the air chisel is more of an in/out motion, it prevents the twisting off of the fasteners that threads are rusted by "shaking" the rust from the threads. IT also pounds the socket driver in while the turning effort is being applied so it prevents stripping out the fasteners drive points. Differentials transmissions and transfer cases often have a 3/8" square drive fill plug and here in the rust belt, often are stubborn to turn. 

A very-very handy tool that I use very very often and will always find new uses as time goes on.  They sell them in 1/2" drive also.

Thanks for the info.  Could have used one on my 84 SVO differential plug.    Looks like a handy tool to add to the toolbox. 

Darn site is going to cost me more money. 

Must be unique to SnapOn, don't recall seeing one before?