Topic: Fighting Barrel Nuts on '67 Console Trim

[drummingrocks]

No matter how many times I've had the console out of my '67, I've always found the barrel nuts up inside the storage area of the console nearly impossible to get to.  I've tried everything: swivel sockets, mini wrenches, swivel ratchets, regular wrenches, etc.  And while I do finally get them out every time, they never seem to come out without a fight.  How in the world did Ford intend for these things to be installed and removed?  And how in the world were they installed so fast on the assembly line?  As best I can tell, you can't remove the long trim plate from the console without removing the trim around the storage area, so I don't really see how the console could've been installed as a complete assembly.   

Here's a picture with the nuts I'm talking about circled in red (but if you've done this job, you know exactly the ones I'm talking about):

[J_Speegle]

Aren't those accessable (been a long time since I've worked on a 67 console) through the compartment there with the door open?

Think that is how I got to them (1/4 socket, ratchet and extension )

But believe Ford never meant for them to be removed once the console was installed in the car as the unit would have been built and then installed as a unit (minus the shift plate)

[drummingrocks]

Yes, they're accessible from the front of the storage compartment.  They're still really tough to get out, though.

[67gtasanjose]

For others who may read this thread:

I have found these nuts are removed AFTER the console (as an assembly) is removed from the car. The shifter plate is removed FIRST by lifting (about an 1/8" to 3/16 inch) against the spring clip, on the back of the shifter plate straight upwards. My car is an auto trans, so care has to be given around the brushed aluminum shift indicator so as not to scratch it while using any tools to accomplish this "lifting" process. Once lifted, slide the plate rearwards to clear the radio bezel plate (where the slide-up door is). Manual trans cars can be lifted from around the back side of the shifter opening, between the shifter bezel and the shifter boot. I guess somebody could insert a thin knife blade (protecting the camera black finish) along the edges of the shifter plate, near the seam to the back plate of the console as well, so one or the other idea has always worked to get it lifted and slid rearwards.

The 68 padded version (or Cougars) would need the pads removed first and is much easier overall to get apart.

Once the console is out, super easy to get those nuts out.

Richard

[drummingrocks]

Interesting, I may need to give that approach a try next time I need to remove the console.  This is still one of my most hated jobs on the '67.  The way I was doing it before, it never gets any easier.  How do you put the shifter plate back in without mangling that spring clip?  I'd be afraid it would rattle from having the tension taken out of it.

[67gtasanjose]

How do you put the shifter plate back in without mangling that spring clip?  I'd be afraid it would rattle from having the tension taken out of it.

The spring clip is designed to spring back, the bigger problem might instead be that the spot welds holding the spring clip on could be loose from age (because of the corrosive nature in the pot-metal it is made from) or inadvertently loosened, if pulled up too high. You only want to lift it as high as it takes to slide it back over the other piece, enough to get it behind the radio plate. It wouldn't hurt (if you have a perfect or very nice console base chrome panel) to use a very thin cloth as an insulator from scratching as you move it rearwards.

Also, as long as the spring clip is tight and not bent, other known console "rattles" are 1.) NOT putting insulating tape under the shift plate, and 2.) rivets or peened areas around the slide-up door are loose.

Easy does it! ...and it is done easily!

I've never enjoyed taking my console out for the 36 years I've had mine, so I would never say it was "easy", but working in the salvage yards as a teenager, I took a fair share out this way and at that time (not thinking about scratches) never had one break off or bend beyond usable condition.

A bigger problem I have found is that the roll-up door tracks interfere with the console base chrome panel when trying to assemble a console. I am re-doing mine again and ran into this snag twice within the last year, haven't figured the best way out of that one yet, but I think it has to do with setting both pieces in simultaneously into the plastic console base, folding at the seam in the middle when doing so. I am wanting to refinish the brushed area and remove the overlay and I am fishing for ideas to get a nice OE look without an overlay kit.


Richard

[drummingrocks]

...I am fishing for ideas to get a nice OE look without an overlay kit.

Richard

Let us know if you come up with anything on redoing original brushed aluminum.  My '67 is presentable, but it's certainly not show quality.  I can't see any way to bring it back and get that satin/brushed appearance without fine sandpaper, and I don't think that'll look right either.