Topic: Early (Feb '65) '65 Convertible Top?

[autonomousbronco]

Hello All,
 
       I have to replace the convertible top on my Feb '65 San Jose plant car. I have spoken with Mr. Perkins and he was very helpful and recommends looking into Arrow conv. tops, as they were the original supplier. Also, I have been told that Kee conv. tops come close to original as well. Any suggestions are highly appreciated. I can upload pictures if necessary.

       It's a shame that I have to redo the top, the car won several grand nationals (late '80's) but after the competing, the top suffered 4 puncture marks from unauthorized football players riding on the back as the car was driven onto a TV set...oh well...

        Thanks in advance!

[CharlesTurner]

Kee auto tops has a pattern in their system of an original Feb '65 San Jose top I sent them.  I worked with the owner, Erman, on this.  He was very helpful and enthusiastic to help.  The only detail lacking is they use the same top material on the edge binding.  On original tops, the binding is what is referred to as 'crush' grain.  This would also have been used to make the front wind-roll.

On the rear window, I'm afraid you'll have a hard time getting that exactly like original.

[autonomousbronco]

@ Charles

Thanks! Do you have Erman's contact info at Kee tops? Also, my rear isinglass appears fine, only has minor surface scratches...Is it possible to have it incorporated into the new top?

[CharlesTurner]

http://www.keeautotop.com/

Not sure what you mean about the rear "glass"?  If you have a '65, it should have a plastic rear window.  If your rear window is good, you might be able to leave it and install a new top.  Some of the manufacturers are specific on rear bow height.  If you're off a little bit, it can throw off the fit.

If there's a good upholstery shop in your area, might be best to discuss with them.  '65 convertible tops are tough as the long middle tacking strip extends into the rear sails of the top.  Then the well-liner staples in there too.

[autonomousbronco]

Sorry for the boating terminology creeping in. Yes, the rear plastic window seems to be in great shaped (just minor scuffing).  Do you have any advice for polishing out these scuffs. I'm concerned about causing discoloration of the material or lensing that could cause visual distortions.

Also, regarding Kee Convertible Tops below is a link to the page found for my application:

http://www.keeautotop.com/catalog/convertible/page38.htm

I was curious as to which would be appropriate or closest to concours:

Superior: 33SP Black/Black,   Stayfast/Topline: 14SF Black/Black
Add For Cloth Binding $20.00

Thanks again for the advice, I was really scratching my head.

[CharlesTurner]

I'm not sure on all the terminology on their website.  Probably best to see if you can speak to Erman and have them lookup what I have bought in the past.

Sounds like you probably ought to change out the rear window also.  But if it's really ok other than some scuffs, maybe some plastic polish would help.  I would be scared of making a mess if using a small buffer with compound.  I suppose if you unzip from the top frame and unbolt from the car, you could lay it out and buff it on a table.

[autonomousbronco]

As I'm sure you know, its not about saving a few bucks on the rear window...We all agreed to substantially lighten our wallets when we entered concours. The main reason I'm trying to keep the rear window is that it has proper de-bossed stamp on the lower corner of the plastic. So it's really a catch 22  keep the current correct window and possibly get dinged for the scuffing or get a new plastic window and possibly get dinged for improper markings on it. Thank god I don't own an unrestored survivor car...I'd be cross eyed at the "fix-it" or "live with it" impasse.

[CharlesTurner]

Sounds like removing the rear window to buff will be your best bet.  Tape up the edges so no compound gets on the surrounding material. 

[5F08KGT]

As I'm sure you know, its not about saving a few bucks on the rear window...We all agreed to substantially lighten our wallets when we entered concours. The main reason I'm trying to keep the rear window is that it has proper de-bossed stamp on the lower corner of the plastic. So it's really a catch 22  keep the current correct window and possibly get dinged for the scuffing or get a new plastic window and possibly get dinged for improper markings on it. Thank god I don't own an unrestored survivor car...I'd be cross eyed at the "fix-it" or "live with it" impasse.

Are you saying that your rear window is THE original with the "proper" "de-bossed" logo/lettering?

There IS a CORVETTE interior maker called Al Knoch that has the correct logos/stamps and will stamp a window for you.

I have an Electron (sp) top on my car, which I am very happy with

[autonomousbronco]

@ CobraSpeed Thanks for the plastic polish recommendation my daily driver is a '12 Challenger R/T...I'll have to stop by the parts counter next time I'm at the dealer. I looked at the new Mustangs but, I really liked that the Challenger was more comfortable (bigger seats and cabin) for the long road trips.

@ 5F08KGT, I doubt it's the original plastic glass, however...I am sure of the fact that it is the top that the car had won Grand Nationals with so I'd like to stay with the current plastic glass if possible. Regarding your electron top, is it close to the original as far as material used, pattern etc?