Author Topic: Traingular seal @ Vent Frame  (Read 950 times)

Offline Angela

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Traingular seal @ Vent Frame
« on: January 23, 2014, 01:46:52 PM »
How do you guys glue this tiny little rubber seal to the chrome vent frame? I've tried three different 3M products (including the weatherstrip adhesive) as well as the "Herco" stuff that folks recommend for the door weatherstrips. Nothing holds. I scuffed up the rubber seal, yet don't wish to scuff the chrome.

What glue works in this application?

Offline Murf

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Re: Traingular seal @ Vent Frame
« Reply #1 on: January 23, 2014, 06:53:16 PM »
Just put those in a week or so ago and used 3M super weather strip adhesive, the yellow color, the same as I used on all of the weather strip.  It sat for several days after being glued on the vent frame while I fooled with all of the stuff in the door (started with a bare shell after painting) so had plenty of time to dry well.  It stuck like, well, glue to the chrome vent frame.  Just wiped the chrome with thinner to clean the surface, and wiped the rubber as well with the same lacquer thinner.  Applied the WS cement to both surfaces, let it sit until  dry and then stuck the rubber on the chrome.  Did the same thing a couple of years ago when the frames came back from the chrome shop and they were well anchored when I replaced them early this month.   Maybe I had just some good luck.  Putting all of the stuff in doors and adjusting the strikers and the windows is my least favorite part of owning a Mustang and am glad to have that in the rear view mirror - if those little rubber strips hadn't stuck it would have been the final insult on that aspect of a restoration.
John Murphy

1965 "K" GT fastback Honey Gold exterior, Ivy Green and White Pony interior, many options
1966 Conv., high option, removeable hardtop, thermactor "C" engine, AC, Springtime Yellow exterior, Black Pony interior
1968 California Special, "J" code, ,many options, white with red interior

Offline Angela

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Re: Traingular seal @ Vent Frame
« Reply #2 on: January 24, 2014, 10:19:45 AM »
Hey thanks for the response! Wow, the yellow stuff huh? I tried that stuff too.... seems to hold better than the clear adhesive, but I was still able to pull the seal off with very little effort. I, too, wiped down the rubber seal before applying the glue. I used PPG wax & grease remover instead of lacquer thinner.

While you were installing the vent frame, did you find that this rubber seal gets pinched by the door? Or, does there appear to be very little force on the seal meaning that perhaps the glue doesn't have to be extremely strong?

Also, since you stated that you just went through the door glass install process, if you have any tips you could share, I'd love some help!!! I am somewhat hopeful I could begin installation this coming weekend.

Offline Murf

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Re: Traingular seal @ Vent Frame
« Reply #3 on: January 24, 2014, 12:24:18 PM »
Angela, the little rubber parts were never disturbed while installing the vent window frame assembly.  The originals were stuck on the frames with a "peel and stick" type arrangement by the way.  My advice on putting all of the mechanisms back in the door is to put in the rear track and bolt it loosely, slip the scissors mechanism in the door but not bolt it, then slip in the window glass with the two large rollers on the rear of the glass in place in the rear track.  Than put the operating scissors in the window tracks, then the small (short) track on the roller and then bolt the operating mechanism and the short track loosely to the door, followed by the vent window frame which also has the front track hooked to it.  It is just a tedious job and one I an not comfortable with.  It requires patience and small hands - I have small hands.  You will finally get it all in place, start by fitting the vent frame to the front of the rubber seal that surrounds all of the windows, then work on the window itself. IF there are any "footprints" left from the position of the previous adjustments they will provide a good starting place.  The long studs on the vent window frames require a little thought to install before the track and frame are in the proper position, screw them all of the way in and they will finally get in the proper hole.  Leave the rubber stop out until last since it makes putting the fuzzies in place possible.    My hands look as if they were run over after doing these.  Delonzo sent me a "how to" for the rear windows but they also were a struggle.  The window installation is just not my cup of tea but if one spends long enough it will finally happen.  Also tape up the edges of the painted surfaces near where you will be working - both the outside and inside of the door.  Good luck.  One final tip - make sure BEFORE you do ANYTHING that ALL of the plastic rollers will freely roll - they may well be locked on the axles and require a lot of "love' before they are free.  If you do not free them the windows take extra effort to operate and the mechanism is under extra strain.  Lastly, when you get frustrated just walk away for a while and come back when you calm down.
John Murphy

1965 "K" GT fastback Honey Gold exterior, Ivy Green and White Pony interior, many options
1966 Conv., high option, removeable hardtop, thermactor "C" engine, AC, Springtime Yellow exterior, Black Pony interior
1968 California Special, "J" code, ,many options, white with red interior