Topic: San Jose K Code Motor Mounts

[6S280]

My 66 Shelby is an October 65 San Jose built K code.  In studying the blog "http://65kresto.blogspot.com/" I was paying particular attention to the restoration of the motor mounts.  Is that representative of the Hi Po motor mounts for the entire production run (1964 through late 1965) or were there finish changes during that time period?   

[jwc66k]

The mounts should be natural which is what Charles did. I didn't find any paint or any other stuff (rust, oil and road crud excepted) on my San Jose Oct 18, 1965 "K" car that used the same mounts. I found the same natural finish mounts on my San Jose Oct 15, 1965 "A" code hardtop, although the mounts are similar but not the same. As the hardtop was used for a daily driver I replaced the mounts with the later 66 type. Charles went into much more detail than I was prepared to do and I might consider pulling mine out and doing them the way Charles did - or not.
Jim

[CharlesTurner]

I'm not aware of any production changes, they were just plain steel as Jim mentioned.

They're not very difficult to restore, considering you have a nice set to start with.  I strip them in the blasting cabinet and then run through a vibratory tumbler to get the surface finish right.  Then gun blue the studs and heat the welds with a map gas torch.  Coat with rust preventative like Boeshield T9 or similar.

[6S280]

Thanks to Jim and Charles for their feedback.  Happy New Year!

[6S280]

Charles, another question.  What media are you using in the vibratory tumbler to clean up the surface finish referenced in your last reply?

[CharlesTurner]

I'm using angle cut ceramic.

[6S280]

Got the motor mounts out of my car last night and cleaned them up this morning.   Some of the parts have a semi-gloss black finish that has a factory look about it.  Similar to other under-hood items such as pulleys and brackets.  Its a thorough coating not something shot while bolted in position.  Before I remove the paint, were these pieces ever painted black from the factory as opposed to natural?

[CharlesTurner]

It would not be typical to see them painted black.

[J_Speegle]

Got the motor mounts out of my car last night and cleaned them up this morning.   Some of the parts have a semi-gloss black finish that has a factory look about it.  Similar to other under-hood items such as pulleys and brackets.  Its a thorough coating not something shot while bolted in position.  Before I remove the paint, were these pieces ever painted black from the factory as opposed to natural?

Likely PO since we all rattle caned these things if they were ever taken out (like anything else   just trying to make things look freash and I would guess Shelbys were thew worst since they were special

[livetoride60]

Old post, but thought I'd put my questions here since it's the same topic.

Cleaned up the motor mounts for my Oct 64 SJ K code, and was wondering from the experts if this finish looks about right.  (that one piece is shiny because of it's angle to the light).  It's just original parts that have been run through my machine shop's hot tank, then soaked in evaporust, and then the steel parts where given a light steel wooling.  Didn't steel wool the cast piece. 

I'm thinking they don't need any gun bluing.  The phosphate is still pretty good on that bolt.  Wanted some opinions.  This car will be in the concours driven class hopefully.

Speaking of driving, I do plan to drive the car (dry days only) and was wondering how the Boeshield holds up?  Really don't want to be reapplying it all the time, especially to hard to reach parts like these.  I could lightly powdercoat with clear.....semi-gloss for the steel and satin on the cast.  I've done this before and it's fairly unnoticeable if done lightly.

Interested in thoughts.

Also, the picture of the frame mounts are after hot tanking (rusty) and after evaporust.  That solution is alkali from what I understand, and left a pretty good coat of surface rust which wasn't there originally.

Thanks,
Rich

[CharlesTurner]

Look good to me.  Be sure to use a good coating so they won't rust.

[livetoride60]

Thanks Charles.  Will I get dinged on points if I powdercoat them clear?  I have Boeshield, but really don't want to maintain them.  Clear powdercoat looks better than Eastwood cast blast, etc paint IMO.

[Bob Gaines]

Thanks Charles.  Will I get dinged on points if I powdercoat them clear?  I have Boeshield, but really don't want to maintain them.  Clear powdercoat looks better than Eastwood cast blast, etc paint IMO.

I have found the boeshield to be better then clear coat in most instances . Moisture can migrate through the clear. Maybe a light clearcoat with boeshield on top  . Done that.  Powdercoat will work for maintenace but the look of powdercoat clear would  look far off compared to not and maybe stand out more out of place then compared to painting cast blast. 

[CharlesTurner]

Thanks Charles.  Will I get dinged on points if I powdercoat them clear?  I have Boeshield, but really don't want to maintain them.  Clear powdercoat looks better than Eastwood cast blast, etc paint IMO.

IMHO, you will ruin the appearance by powder coating.  Try out that new stuff called Rust Prevention Magic.  NPD has it in their catalog or I'm sure can be bought online.  I've been having good luck with it so far, especially on parts like leaf springs that I soaked in evapo-rust.

Another trick is to not rinse the parts with water after they come out of the evapo-rust.  Dry them off with a paper towel or rag.  Before you apply any coating, use a heat gun or map gas torch to dry all the moisture out of the pores.

[J_Speegle]

............ Before you apply any coating, use a heat gun or map gas torch to dry all the moisture out of the pores.

+1  and watch those fingers