Topic: Dash Pad & Pad Trim; alignment with windshield gasket

[Angela]

Is the metal dash pad trim (2 pieces which overlap in the middle/center of the dash) supposed to rest directly on top of the dash pad, and tuck below the rubber windshield gasket? OR, does the metal trim just supposed to lay partially on top of the windshield gasket and partially on the dash pad?
I have three dash pads to play with (including the original) and while test fitting all three dash pads, I find that none of them allows the metal dash pad trim to lay down below the windshield gasket in the corners (near each door). The trim will lay nicely in the center of the dash, but not at the corners. No amount of elbow grease or cursing helps. Do they all fit terribly like this? If not, what am I doing wrong? I am having a heck of a time with this.

Last but not least, is there any way to replace the lower two studs within the dash pad? I'd love to use my original dash pad, but both studs are missing (i.e. torn out). Otherwise, it's a nice dash pad without any holes or cracks. I suppose the grain/texture is pretty far gone from decades of UV exposure though. :-(

[Oz390]

Sits over both the pad and gasket.  Does not go under the gasket.

[Angela]

Hmmm, OK, thanks! Perhaps I should clarify that when I say "under", of course I don't mean literally underneath the gasket, I mean below it... i.e. beginning at the dash pad and moving UP, one would see the dash pad, then the metal dash pad trim, then the windshield gasket, then the glass.

OK, so I think you're saying that the metal trim lays on top of the gasket and the pad. If true, based on what I'm seeing, there must be almost 3/4 to 1" of the screw in free space between the interior surface of the trim and the sheet metal where the screw engages.

[Oz390]

It sits on top of the gasket, obviously it can't go between the glass and seal.

And if you expect mm accuracy and fit across the width of the dash... don't!    They do not really line up that great IME.

[Oz390]

Very quick and rough sketch showing how it goes...  there is a large gap, thus the use of the 1" or so screws....

[Angela]

Thanks! Great drawing! That's exactly how I see the trim fitting, both with the original and with the repro pad.

I hate the repro pad. I think most are well aware of the repro pads having too much visible grain, and I see that as well. Has anyone run across a method to replace missing studs (one at each lower corner where the pad meets the dash face)? My original could probably be put back into service, if there was a way to replace these two studs which are presently missing. I'm also assuming the original pad could be dyed using NPD's rattle-can paint.

Since the dash pad studs appear to be set into the foam as it was molded, thus far I cannot think of a way to replace them once they're gone.

[Oz390]

I asked the same question about the studs and got answers on why they were gone (really moot, just need a fix... not theories as to why they are missing), but no solution for repairs. 

I found the that the rear valence "tabbed" studs are very similar in size, and am looking at using Sikaflex to mold them in place.  Will make a few holes in the foam (blue in sketch), radiating out and away from the fix fill (hatching) and hopefully this will form a good bond.  More than just surface with some "legs" into the solid foam.

I did one some time ago and think I used silicone caulking but think the butyl rubber Sikaflex might be better.