Author Topic: back again new problem with 6 cylinder  (Read 1181 times)

Offline tnguy624

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back again new problem with 6 cylinder
« on: November 11, 2013, 11:37:04 PM »
Everyone was so helpful with situation of the streaks on the side of my block, by the way have new gaskets and am ready to tackle that! I am once again hoping I can get some advice.

I have another situation that started on the way home from my last car show a few weeks ago. Prior to going to the show the car ran great accelerated wonderfully and all things were happy in Mustang land. There was a large "mountain" i had to travel on the way to the show with a long climb. I noticed that I could not get over 65 MPH with the car at full throttle, once I reached the peak, and started down everything seemed fine, car ran and idled great. On the way back from the show the as I was going up the incline the car lost power going up and at full throttle I was lucky to keep the car at 55 MPH. Once I got off the interstate and came to my first stop, as I accelerated the car made a horrible knocking noise, I slowly accelerated and was able to get up to local speed limits of 35.

Once home the first thing I did was check the timing it was still at 12 deg BTD, the proper setting for a 66 200 with c/4 and w/o thermoreactor. I checked the plugs, there was slight carbon build up but I know that was from the autochoke that i had been working on setting properly. The engine has a slightly rough idle now, not as smooth as it was, but not horrible. With the engine idling in park, I can rev the engine up and it speeds up with no problem When I put the car into drive or reverse at idle, and put a load on the engine, the idle get a bit rougher, when I accelerate in gear I still have  the engine knocking sound. I don.t believe its spark knock, because I don't see how it could happen so suddenly. I only use the high octane fuel in the car and the car ran fine up till that day. I also check all the vacuum lines and hoses all were tight and secure and no crack in tubing. Carb is secure and no leaks at base of gasket.

The car has 1300 miles since rebuild. A few theories I have is 1. the carb has something internally wrong. 2. The head gasket that I am going to replace is letting air in, . As always any help advice, idea would be so greatly appreciated, thank so much in advance for anyone taking the time to help me out!

Terry
1966 Convertible
Born Jan. 17, 1966 Dearborn
Rebirth began Feb. 2012
Reborn July 2013

1966 Sprint
Born  May 27, 1966  Dearborn
D-4 Interior: Parchment/Emberglo
V    Exterior: Emberglo
Rebirth began March 2009
Reborn May 2011
Moved to Australia Dec. 2011
MCA # 78931

Offline suskeenwiske

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Re: back again new problem with 6 cylinder
« Reply #1 on: November 12, 2013, 02:54:29 AM »
Terry,

I could write a book on all of the possible reasons for your trouble so I'll touch on the more common causes.

Elevation change on older cars can be tricky; you may have been running rich as you gained altitude thanks to the thinner air. You can make adjustments to the Idle Mixture Screw, possibly netting some moderate results but what you really needed was to change the jets; not all that convenient.

Fuel delivery is another possibility. A weak Fuel Pump, clogged Filter(s) or an incorrectly adjusted Float may have left the Fuel Bowl low, starving the engine for fuel, and in some cases, if the incline is extreme, the fuel in the bowl could overflow. Did you notice any black smoke trailing you as you were climbing the mountain? You did mention carbon on the plugs.

Engine temperature is another area to look at. If the engine gets too hot it will cause the fuel to burn more rapidly during the combustion cycle. If full combustion takes place before the piston reaches TDC, the result is a knocking sound; sometimes referred to as pinging. You get the same knocking if the timing advance is too great or if you use low octane fuel. Lower octane fuels burn more rapidly than higher octane.

Check the water level in the radiator. Insufficient water and anti-freeze will also cause higher engine temperatures, again resulting in a premature combustion cycle.

Make sure that the Diaphragm in the Distributors Vacuum Advance is supple. If the diaphragm has hardened or developed a small hole, the timing while driving will be off; something you may not notice at idle when checking the timing. Make sure that the Distributor is secure and check the inside of the Cap for Carbon Tracking.

The plugs could also be at fault. If they overheated during your trip, the insulators may be glazed or cracked or if the ground electrodes have eroded, they could fire prematurely. Incorrect or poor quality plugs can also be the problem.

If there is any carbon build-up in the cylinders, there may be some hot spots that can cause premature ignition. See if your local auto supplier has anything you can spray into the Carburetor or add to the fuel that will help blow the carbon free. I could tell you to use plain water to blow carbon free but unless you are experienced at spritzing water through the Carburetor, I would not attempt that method.

Make sure that all of the Carburetor Linkage moves freely. At full throttle, the linkage sometimes bends.

If for some reason the fuel that is metering through the Carburetor is being restricted, you may be running lean. Lean = Higher Engine Temperature = Rapid Combustion Cycle = Knocking.

It could be that all you need is a tune-up and it wouldn't hurt to disassemble the Carburetor to make sure that all is clean and that no gasket damage has occurred. Inspect all of the parts for damage, ruptures, etc. Check the Air Filter and change the Oil; make sure that the Oil is not Milky looking.

Hopefully, something above will fix the problem. If not, send a note; there's more stuff that can be checked.

Take care.

Ray
« Last Edit: November 12, 2013, 02:57:20 AM by suskeenwiske »
Ray
1965 Dearborn Coupe
6 Cylinder, AT, PB, PS, AC
Est. Build 23A