Author Topic: Auto t-handle  (Read 3029 times)

Offline Chris

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Auto t-handle
« on: May 17, 2013, 06:55:39 PM »
Does anyone know how to reattach the t-handle for a 65 auto so that it shifts correctly? When I slide the t-handle and black plastic button unit over the shaft, the button does not work, it does not have any spring to it and the shifter does not shift.

Thanks,
Chris
64 1/2 Poppy Red Convertible, 260V8 auto, 19 June 64

Offline jwc66k

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Re: Auto t-handle
« Reply #1 on: May 17, 2013, 08:36:51 PM »
You have to push the cable arm over and hold it before the "T" and button get attached.
Jim
I promise to be politically correct in all my posts to keep the BBBB from vociferating.

Offline Chris

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Re: Auto t-handle
« Reply #2 on: May 17, 2013, 08:40:09 PM »
I tried that, held the plastic part that has the cable attached over all the way to the right and then slid the t-handle and plastic button over the top. After that was done, there was play in the button, no real resistance when pressing it in and the shifter did not shift.
64 1/2 Poppy Red Convertible, 260V8 auto, 19 June 64

Offline Chris

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Re: Auto t-handle
« Reply #3 on: May 17, 2013, 08:41:44 PM »
How much tension is supposed to be in the cable arm? It lays over to the right and stays there by itself, does not spring up. Is it supposed to have more tension to spring up after being pressed over?
64 1/2 Poppy Red Convertible, 260V8 auto, 19 June 64

Offline NEFaurora

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Re: Auto t-handle
« Reply #4 on: May 18, 2013, 06:36:03 AM »

From the looks of your fist pic, It looks like your cable is snapped and broken.  There should be tension on the cable so that the roller part "Snaps" back and can move back and forth with tention on it.  Yours looks like it's just flapping in the wind with no tension..  You may have a bigger shifter problem than you think.  You may have to remove the shifter and replace it.  I've never tried to fix one of those cables before, but I can imagine it's a Beotch!

Tony K.
Tony Kovar (NEFaurora@aol.com)
1965 Mustang Convertible 200 cid 3spd manual
1966 Mustang Convertible Sprint 200 C4 Auto
2007 Mustang Convertible V6 Auto with "Pony Package".
1966 Mustang Sprint 200 Registry Owner/Moderator
MCA#70001

Offline NEFaurora

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Re: Auto t-handle
« Reply #5 on: May 18, 2013, 07:55:08 AM »

PS:  As I said, You'll have to remove the shifter.., but not the entire assembly.   It is held by one nut from the topside.. No need to go under the car. You just need the chrome stem of the shifter with a good cable in it to make the fix.  You'll need remove the console selector slider assembly above to get to it..  Replacement NOS and repro Chrome C4 shifter stems usually can be found on Ebay from $50 to $100 bucks tops...on a good day. There's plenty to go around, so you should have no problem finding the part.

Tony K.

Tony Kovar (NEFaurora@aol.com)
1965 Mustang Convertible 200 cid 3spd manual
1966 Mustang Convertible Sprint 200 C4 Auto
2007 Mustang Convertible V6 Auto with "Pony Package".
1966 Mustang Sprint 200 Registry Owner/Moderator
MCA#70001

Offline C5ZZ

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Re: Auto t-handle
« Reply #6 on: May 18, 2013, 11:43:31 PM »
The cable itself is available so if your lever is good then just buy the cable.

NPD sells it, 7D246-1 "Cable, Shifter Lever" $22.50
MCA # 00945

65 Fastback, 6 cyl, AT, AC, PS, PB
Rangoon Red/Red Interior

Offline kutzoh

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Re: Auto t-handle
« Reply #7 on: May 19, 2013, 01:15:11 PM »
Chris-
     Here's a pic of how the tension cable is attached at the bottom of the shaft-

http://s642.photobucket.com/user/kutzoh/media/IMG_1621_zps79ee3f4c.jpg.html

Don't know for sure it that's your problem. I do have a spare shaft assembly that came out of a 12/64 coupe if you're interested, It's yours for the price of postage. BTW, I didn't find removing them that difficult just take pics. I re-chromed my original and reinstalled.

Hope this helps,
Greg
64.5 Dearborn coupe, D-Code, June 28, 1964   Skylight Blue


Offline krelboyne

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Re: Auto t-handle
« Reply #8 on: May 19, 2013, 02:28:40 PM »
We have all of those individual pieces for the shifter on our website.

The 1965 - early1967 cable did not have a slot at the bottom of the threaded stud. It makes is very difficult to get that nut on the bottom tightened or removed, without twisting the cable.
Scott Behncke - Carcheaologist
West Coast Classic Cougars
503-463-1130
1968 GT/CS 302-4V San Jose 05B
1968 Cougar XR7 Dearborn 09A

Offline Chris

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Re: Auto t-handle
« Reply #9 on: May 21, 2013, 11:32:45 PM »
Quote
Chris-
     Here's a pic of how the tension cable is attached at the bottom of the shaft-

http://s642.photobucket.com/user/kutzoh/media/IMG_1621_zps79ee3f4c.jpg.html

Don't know for sure it that's your problem. I do have a spare shaft assembly that came out of a 12/64 coupe if you're interested, It's yours for the price of postage.

Thanks, nice picture. I'm pulling out the assembly this weekend to have a look, may take you up on the offer of the spare assembly. I have one on hand, but it's the very early version with the small T-handle, think it came out of a March '64 mustang, so I'm not looking to part that one out.

Chris
64 1/2 Poppy Red Convertible, 260V8 auto, 19 June 64

Offline kutzoh

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Re: Auto t-handle
« Reply #10 on: May 22, 2013, 09:43:15 AM »
Chris-
   If your going to be removing the shift lever now is as good a time as any to replace the 2 plastic bushings down inside the cup. For reference, Virginia Classic Mustang part #IN-574  $2.60, but ANY parts supplier will carry them.

Greg
64.5 Dearborn coupe, D-Code, June 28, 1964   Skylight Blue


Offline Chris

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Re: Auto t-handle
« Reply #11 on: May 26, 2013, 10:17:19 AM »
I fixed the shifter. The plastic triangle shaped parts that surround the metal cable and ball were cracked and missing at the top, allowing the cable to shift around. This also reduced the tension in the cable. When set correctly, the metal cable tension will have the cable and ball retainer straight up, not laying off to one side like mine was.

You have to remove the chrome shifter rod to make adjustments to the cable tension. There is a black rubber pad at the bottom of the shifter housing that covers the access hole to the nut that secures the shifter rod (under the car, just above the transmission). Remove the pad and take the nut off with a 9/16th socket...the rod come right out from the shifter from inside the car, you do have to first remove the upper sections of the shifter such as the top plate and gear indicator cover. This is also a good time to replace the light bulb in the metal housing attached to the shifter rod. The cable isn't hard to adjust. You hold the nut at the base of the shifter rod with a 3/8th wrench while screwing in the cable that is attached to a 2in rod with a philips screw driver, this tightens the cable.

Chris
64 1/2 Poppy Red Convertible, 260V8 auto, 19 June 64