Topic: Welding Concerns

[koski19]

I'll be moving my 66 Mustang into the shop in May for sheet metal work. I have some welding skills and this will be the biggest project I've undertaken. I know off the bat I need a new complete floor pan. I plan to use Scott Drake #C5ZZ-6511135-EP (w/o seat risers) or #M107-8-FFC-P (with seat risers).
The reason I chose the Scott Drake part is because:
1. The shipping is only $40.00
2. The Mustang Parts Store is local. I won't need to drive 250 + miles to pickup the parts.
So here are my questions:
1. Do I need to brace the body front to back and X when removing the old pan to keep the body from twisting?
2. What type of wire is use Flux Cored or Solid Steel?
3. I wasn't thinking of buying a car dolly so has anyone built a car dolly to move the car around? If so, would you share your plans.
4. If you installed a floor pan would you share your experience and after thoughts?

Thanks
Jeff

[Sam Cro]

Jeff,

Please define your welding skills ! by asking the question what wire should you use I determine your Skill level at the newbie/entry level and would Not recommend doing this on your own.

Sam
well over 30 years of welding and teaching it 

[koski19]

Thanks for the info....

Jeff

[Sam Cro]

Jeff,

what is your welding skills level ?

Sam

[koski19]

I would say beginner. However, I have used a stick welder mending equipment in construction cracks, broken brackets and hinges. I've had a Linclon Mig welder for light work around the ranch mostly fixing things that break. I have a 135 amp Mig welder and will learn and hone my skills as I work on the Mustang's sheet metal. Make mistakes? You betcha, but learn and move on. This is why I have asked the questions in my post. Hopefully, this forum will help provide some direction. I'm simple not going to farm this work out to a shop. I'll learn welding as I have learn to repair engines, transmissions, brakes and suspensions and have earned my ASE certifications in those areas.
Thanks Again
Jeff

[Stangly]

I would definitely practice alot on thin sheet metal to get the hang of it.  There are many posts on the web that go over this floor pan replacement.  AMD also makes some great DVD's walking you thru the process.  I didn't have any welding experience but did alot of practicing before I started on the actual car.  You can't learn if you never try, good luck.

[koski19]

I would definitely practice alot on thin sheet metal to get the hang of it.  There are many posts on the web that go over this floor pan replacement.  AMD also makes some great DVD's walking you thru the process.  I didn't have any welding experience but did alot of practicing before I started on the actual car.  You can't learn if you never try, good luck.

Thanks for the info on AMD I'll check them out. I'll be posting before and after photos as the work progresses. I have reference books and a couple of friends that weld sheet metal. I'm looking forward to the challenge.

Jeff

[cobrajetchris]

In order to answer your questions about installing a 1 piece floor and using support braces depend on several things. Is your car a convertible? Are the rocker panels rusted out? Do you have all the drivetrain in or has the car been completely taken apart? If all of the sheet metal is on how does it fit especially the doors. CHRIS

[koski19]

In order to answer your questions about installing a 1 piece floor and using support braces depend on several things. Is your car a convertible? Are the rocker panels rusted out? Do you have all the drivetrain in or has the car been completely taken apart? If all of the sheet metal is on how does it fit especially the doors. CHRIS

At this point Chris, the engine, transmission, and driveline are out. The car is a coupe. The doors are still on. The rocker panels haven't yet been checked out. The car sits on the side of the garage as I prep the garage for the work. Rearraging the garage, new natural lighting fixtures and laying a new epoxy floor covering.  I'll be moving the car into the garage this next week. I then plan to complete a full inspection. At this point I can see that the floor is rusted through on the passenger side/driver side at the firewall. The floor behind the driver seat has a patch panel that was installed using sheet metal screws. The rest of the back seat area looks solid but needs a closer look. I plan to take the car apart removing the front and rear suspension, headlights, grill, bezels, badges, chrome, bumpers, brackets, wiring radio, heater, ducting, etc.
The body will be placed on  roll-able stands, moved outside power washed and dried with compressed air. Moved back into the shop for inspection.
I was thinking of a full floor pan but looks like maybe just the passenger/driverside pans are needed.  Decision hasn't been made, no parts ordered.
The car was DSO Los Angeles and I bought it in New Mexico. From the information I have gathered from the previous owner the car stayed in those two states..........Jeff

[cobrajetchris]

I would complete your teardown as you planned however if you have extensive rocker panel rust out or to any other structural part of the car I would leave the suspension in the car. This way you can put the car on stands under lower control arms and rear axle so when you replace a structural part the car is siting like it would if it was on the ground vs. putting the stands under the frame rails that might put the body in a bind. If your structure is solid and all you need is a floor pan, in my opinion bracing should not be required. Do your inspection and we can go from there.....CHRIS

[jwc66k]

The 66 Comet, Falcon, Fairlane and Mustang Shop Manual has a diagram of the frame dimensions for Mustang. Using the suspension as support is a good idea but a rack that supports the front and rear frame rails is better. A rotisserie is better yet.
Jim

[Sam Cro]

I would say beginner. However, I have used a stick welder mending equipment in construction cracks, broken brackets and hinges. I've had a Linclon Mig welder for light work around the ranch mostly fixing things that break. I have a 135 amp Mig welder and will learn and hone my skills as I work on the Mustang's sheet metal. Make mistakes? You betcha, but learn and move on. This is why I have asked the questions in my post. Hopefully, this forum will help provide some direction. I'm simple not going to farm this work out to a shop. I'll learn welding as I have learn to repair engines, transmissions, brakes and suspensions and have earned my ASE certifications in those areas.
Thanks Again
Jeff

Not much reason to ask if you intend on doing it in the first place . with that said I wish you well and by all means get help from your friends .

Sam

[koski19]

Not much reason to ask if you intend on doing it in the first place . with that said I wish you well and by all means get help from your friends .

Sam

Sam, your insite, opinions and suggestions will always be welcomed....Thanks for your response.

Jeff

[koski19]

I would complete your teardown as you planned however if you have extensive rocker panel rust out or to any other structural part of the car I would leave the suspension in the car. This way you can put the car on stands under lower control arms and rear axle so when you replace a structural part the car is siting like it would if it was on the ground vs. putting the stands under the frame rails that might put the body in a bind. If your structure is solid and all you need is a floor pan, in my opinion bracing should not be required. Do your inspection and we can go from there.....CHRIS

Thanks for the info Chris. Yes, the teardown and inspection are for front in my mind. I'll leave the suspension in tack until the pans are replaced. I have quite a bit of reference material from my last 66 coupe. This coupe I'll go deeper into it than in the past....Jeff

[koski19]

The 66 Comet, Falcon, Fairlane and Mustang Shop Manual has a diagram of the frame dimensions for Mustang. Using the suspension as support is a good idea but a rack that supports the front and rear frame rails is better. A rotisserie is better yet.
Jim

Jim.....I would love to have the rotisserie, would be great! Need to accept what I have and do the best job possible. I do have that manual and several other for reference........Jeff