Topic: Heater box color

[Oz390]

I have a (I think) an eary '65 heater box w/no rheostat and 3 wire motor.  4Y** ink stamp.  Think this is a 64 1/2?  (more famialr with '68's) 

In disassembly and cleaning for restoration I noticed the housing is a medium grey color, not as black as the 67/68's I am used to seeing (and 1 '66 restored for a friend).  Is this normal, were the early ones lighter, or did they vary within each time range and some could be black and some lighter ? 

I usually wipe lightly with vinyl dye on a rag to recolor the blacker ones, but that won't work on this one without changing the color quite a bit.  Want to leave it light if that is correct.

[CharlesTurner]

I've never paid much attention to the color, but I think you're right that there is a variance.  It could simply be the conditions the box is kept.  On the ones that are very light gray, maybe look at the inside and see if they're the same color.

[jwc66k]

I have a (I think) an eary '65 heater box w/no rheostat and 3 wire motor.  4Y** ink stamp.  Think this is a 64 1/2?  (more famialr with '68's) 

In disassembly and cleaning for restoration I noticed the housing is a medium grey color, not as black as the 67/68's I am used to seeing (and 1 '66 restored for a friend).  Is this normal, were the early ones lighter, or did they vary within each time range and some could be black and some lighter ? 

I usually wipe lightly with vinyl dye on a rag to recolor the blacker ones, but that won't work on this one without changing the color quite a bit.  Want to leave it light if that is correct.

I have one in the to do pile from a 66 Shelby and I would say it's a medium gray as well. I mask the shell and bead blast the painted parts, hinge, door, motor housing, etc, remove the masking and lightly blast the shell avoiding the date code. A wipe down with solvent (thinner), mask and paint the metal (protect the rivets) and a coat of Eastwood semi-gloss clear Diamond on the shell. All the inside stuff is about the same although I'll paint the metal frame to keep it rust free. I think that's about it. When I get into doing it, I probably do more steps than I spelled out.
Jim

[kutzoh]

Here's mine out of my June '64 build. Had it lightly blasted and clear coated.



Disclaimer: Metal finishes may not be concours correct

Greg

[Oz390]

Thanks, I was considering blasting the shell, but was not sure if it would mess it up  Guess not!  I drill out all the rivets and blast the metal bits separate, paint/clear, then reassemble...

And on the inside/outside quesiton, yes the color is consistent an looks a lot like kutzoh's.  In that photo, on the finishes should the two cable brackets be natural or black?

I thought only the dash mount L bracket, actuator arms, and rivets shuld be natural. Or does that vary from 65 to 68? 

Thanks.

[jwc66k]

Thanks, I was considering blasting the shell, but was not sure if it would mess it up  Guess not!  I drill out all the rivets and blast the metal bits separate, paint/clear, then reassemble...

With respect to rivets, how do you figure on putting in new ones? And what is your source for replacements? In other words, don't drill out any rivets untill you can answer those questions.

And on the inside/outside quesiton, yes the color is consistent an looks a lot like kutzoh's.  In that photo, on the finishes should the two cable brackets be natural or black?

Black.

I thought only the dash mount L bracket, actuator arms, and rivets shuld be natural. Or does that vary from 65 to 68? 
Thanks.

Yes. My current project is "vintage early 60's rust" on the dash bracket. I may paint it black. Rivets I mask and paint satin clear. One arm I lightly phosphated, the other got a dab of flat light grey model paint. I think that the San Jose 67 housing I did several years back was darker than my 65 and 66 housings, which may be a year and/or plant difference.
Jim

[Oz390]

I've restored about 6, the rivets are pretty easy.  Hansen Rivets sells all you need, but the rivets are tubular, not split/star end, but I can live with that minor dfference on the inside of the box.

http://www.hansonrivet.com/w02.htm

Put in with a hand press.

http://www.hansonrivet.com/w82a.htm

I bougth a 2" throat, and have since seen a 3 head set, which is the way I would go now, as some need to use the hand clincher.

http://www.hansonrivet.com/w78.htm

I've used it on a few grilles too.  Expensive, but when you need it, worth it.

Actually IMHO a lot easier than many DIY tasks on thes cars (rather do this than remove and reinstall door glass and all the door guts!).

The box being competely disassembled makes blasting metal parts far easier.



And I find masking makes it real hard to get crisp edges and "dotting' tape or something else on top of the rivetes is a bit trickey, or they get painted.  Looks OK, but not the same (not that anyone is ever going to see it or appreciate it, but on the bench I inspect 'em all too closely).

They are not perfect, but I'm pretty happy with my efforts.  Here is a '68 I did a while ago.





I use stainless steel rivets, so not correct, but I like the fact they will not corrode. 

I don't clear coat the housings.

I do paint all exposed interior metal surfaces with a cold galv grey paint, not leave them natural.  A compromise for durability vs original I can live with.  I also tried a light wipe of POR-15 manifold grey with a rag, two light coats, on some.  And that seems to work OK too (I think the one in the photo may have used this process) .  Not quite "natural" but keeps it from rusting so fast.  Have used clears in the past, but found rust would get in under some, possibly just not thorough prep, but went with color that was close instead.

Thanks for confirming black on the brackets.

[jwc66k]

I use a tool with a smaller reach. I got it many moons back and yes, it was expensive. I also use an arbor press (Harbor Freight) with some home made adapters to get into hard to reach places. See below. Most of the items I've done are 64-66 ash trays and 64-66 grills.
Jim