Topic: Door Window Edge Molding Attachment

[BuckeyeDemon]

Anyone have a recommendation of the proper method of attaching the stainless vertical door window moldings?

i'm assuming an adhesive/sealer is used.

thanks.

[7Lscjracer]

Probably the same stuff used to secure the door glass to the brackets which we all know wasn't very good since 69 glass is renowned for falling out.
I got a puck of 2 part epoxy from an auto glass shop, but never used it since I switched to bolt-in glass.
It has a dark center circle of catalyst, and a lighter outside ring of glue.
Try your local auto glass shop or body shop supply wholesaler for a glass to metal adhesive.
The procedure might be detailed in the assembly manual, but I don't have that book, so can't help you there.

[BuckeyeDemon]

Wow, I just put new window moldings on back in '09 and for the life of me, can't remember what the stuff was called that I used. But, I can tell you this, I bought it at my local auto paint store and it came in a tube about the size of a caulk tube. But seems I remember, it had a small screw-on lid and you squeeze it out. It's black in color and sort of pastey...Hope this helps.

was it a urethane window sealer?

[J_Speegle]

This is the one at the rear edge of the drivers or passenger door that seals to the rear quarter window?


If so the rubber gasket/liner seems to hold the stainless in place just fine for me - nothing like the bonding to the lower window mech track


Just like the quarter window to its vertical mount/chrome trim

[BuckeyeDemon]

This is the one at the rear edge of the drivers or passenger door that seals to the rear quarter window?


If so the rubber gasket/liner seems to hold the stainless in place just fine for me - nothing like the bonding to the lower window mech track


Just like the quarter window to its vertical mount/chrome trim

hmm.  mine aren't like that.  i recently did the small quarter windows where the rubber holds the channel onto the glass.  the stainless piece for the door glass isn't anything like that.  the rubber is held in a different location and doesn't hold the piece to the door glass.  the Ford Tooling seals look like the original seals.

strange.

[J_Speegle]

hmm.  mine aren't like that.  i recently did the small quarter windows where the rubber holds the channel onto the glass.  the stainless piece for the door glass isn't anything like that.  the rubber is held in a different location and doesn't hold the piece to the door glass.  the Ford Tooling seals look like the original seals.

strange.

Not strange - just my mistake/confusion.

It seems to me that it was just the pinching of the trim on the rear of the window that retained it originally so I've never added any glue or sealant

Sorry for the confusion.

[BuckeyeDemon]

here is a pic looking into the stainless molding where the window is inserted.  there is black residues placed about every inch in the channel.




view of the stainless molding (exterior side)




view of the stainless molding (interior side).  part of the seal is torn that forms a flap that rests against the quarter window.

the seal tucks under a flange to help hold it in place on mine, but not the flange where the window is inserted.

[shelbyboss302]

There is suppose to be a black plastic channel insert that holds the vertical stainless to the leading door window edge. These are usually missing due to them getting brittle, cracking and falling off in sections. NOS stainless moldings do not come with the black plastic insert and a lot of shops just use urathane.

[BuckeyeDemon]

There is suppose to be a black plastic channel insert that holds the vertical stainless to the leading door window edge. These are usually missing due to them getting brittle, cracking and falling off in sections. NOS stainless moldings do not come with the black plastic insert and a lot of shops just use urathane.

wow.  that's even more strange to me.  with a set of calipers i measure the ID of the stainless channel to be in the range of .210" to .220" and the window is around .230".  the channel in the molding where the glass goes is very consistent looking in gap (doesn't appear anyone squeezed it down).

that piece of black plastic would have to be thin to fit in that groove.

i wonder why the diagram above doesn't show this piece of plastic?

[shelbyboss302]

Looks like there were more than one suppler for these moldings or running changes. I pulled out some NOS ones to compare with the original ones on my car and there are some differences like the width, length, and the way they were assembled. NOS ones are spot welded as opposed to a welding wheel. Original ones also had a change in the top of the molding that was shaped to accept the weather stripping when door was closed. I posted some pics of the originals that have the plastic insert as discussed above. For the thinner ones, I guess you could use a skim of urethane. Hope this helps.

[BuckeyeDemon]

thanks for the discussion.  mine are spot welded.  i guess it's conceivable the were replaced with some Ford pieces sometime in the 70's.

i took some time to sand them and polish.  after that i ended up using 3M 08609 super fast urethane window-weld.

[kammertime]

I think that the stainless trim is different from a 69 to 70. If i remember correctly, the rubber weatherstrip is also different between the 2 years.

John