Topic: 29K (October 64) Dearborn Seam Sealers and undercoating

[jtfx6552]

I'm at the point where I need to add seam sealers and undercoating. I have some pictures taken before disassembly, but of course they are about 30% of the pictures that I should have taken.

I think I need at least 2, maybe 3 types of seam sealer. A self leveling smooth type for the drip rails, and a brush on thicker type for the overlapping seams inside on the floors and in the trunk, and on the exterior on the bottom of the floors at the rocker. Possibly a third type for seams on the underbody exterior on the front frame rails and around the shock towers, and possibly areas that may not have had any seam sealer originally? Which leads into another question, did the rear frame rails to the floor have any seam sealer?

I thought the Osbourne manual would give me some hints, but there are so many types of sealers listed, and of course by part numbers that are essentially random codes to me, it really wasn't much help. Further, I'm not sure everything shown in the Osbourne manual was actually done. If someone knows how to decode what is in  there, maybe that would help?

Anyone have any hints as to what they used?

[J_Speegle]

Will look through my pictures and hopefully post some helpful pictures when I return home again.

What body style (hopefully to get you closer to what you need) are you working on?

As a note we try to use the term "undercoating" to describe the product dealers sold and sprayed all over the place and "sound deadener" for the product Ford applied at the factory. Just helps keep the information as focused as possible

[jtfx6552]

Thanks Jeff, it is a fastback.

[jtfx6552]

Ok, I looked for the pictures i do have,. Tis one is pretty good. I am wondering how best to recreate it what is shown? Looks like 2 or possibly 3 different products at the bumper bracket? Looks like a runny self leveling type at the trunk floor, something thicker or stiffer less runny around the bracket at the tail light panel, and maybe a piece of dumb gum across the top of the triangle shaped part of the bracket at the tail light panel?

I guess the last two could be the same stuff?

Thoughts on what modern products most look like this appreciated.


Does seem a little crazy to turn the below into the above, ah the joy of "restoration"..

[J_Speegle]

First for the trunk I don't thing there is anything that will change the top (exterior paint) color like the original sealants unfortunately.

For the drip gutters and the cowl I've used 3M Firm and fast while on seams in the trunk and fender wells I've used elastomeric black (with no texture in them) sealants purchased at the local Home Depot or Lowe's. Works for floor to rocker seal for example Can also be used on the cowl to firewall pinch weld but be careful as many produces will crack and lift when applied that thick. Will also work for the trunk floor to wheelwell seam or spread out with a brush or thinner rag on other joints in there.  If applied with just the gun it can be spread out and smooth with a wet finger before it sets up

For the sound deadener lots of guys are using the Lord Fusion product - I've not tried it yet. The challenge is to get something that you can put on real heavy (1/8" or thicker) without loosing the surface texture. Some have chosen to use one product for the build up and one for the final texture and spray out.

Remember that in places like front and rear wheelwell the application does not magically stop at some neat edge but must make sense and reproduce what was done on the assembly plant line. We too often see the spray (in the rear wheelwell) stopping at the bottom edge of the inner wheel well with no overspray or pattern continuation on the frame rail or floor in the area (remember that body color goes over the deadener in the rear wheelwell)

Guess the easiest way to say it is to not be so neat or careful though this will drive painters crazy as they will push to tape and come back later to reproduce overspray and such - this rarely turns out as it should\


Looking at the picture of your trunk - you missed the dolly mark (bare metal around the mounting point in the trunk)

[jtfx6552]

Looking at the picture of your trunk - you missed the dolly mark (bare metal around the mounting point in the trunk)

Interesting, I knew that around the bottom dolly holes should be bare, but I didn't realize the one from the top side should be as well?

Was the car bolted down to the dolly or something? How big in diameter should the bare spot be?

[J_Speegle]

Interesting, I knew that around the bottom dolly holes should be bare, but I didn't realize the one from the top side should be as well?

Bare? well yes bare galvanized metal that the frame rails were formed from


Have you checked out one of the members only section - The Library. Especially the How to Reproduce Body Dolly Marks?

http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=2275.0

Was the car bolted down to the dolly or something? How big in diameter should the bare spot be?

Have seen slightly different sizes depending on year and plant (sometimes two different sizes in the same year and plant.

Sorry don't have a measured size of early Dearborn but they appear to be approx 1/2" wider than the rear frame rail width

[CharlesTurner]

The top of the trunk where the dolly washer would attach would be plain steel, so it would be bare.  The bottom would be galvanized like Jeff mentioned.  All the thick steel on the bottom of the car was usually galvanized.