Author Topic: Testing a dash clock  (Read 10092 times)

Offline 68 S Code

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Re: Testing a dash clock
« Reply #30 on: December 08, 2011, 12:02:02 AM »
Did some checking and found another guy locally who rebuilds these clock. Half the price of the one which was recommended. Also found another guy down in Tennessee who sells reconditioned movements at a reasonable price. Looks like I will give these at try before switching over to quartz. For now I will stay away from repop. Let you guys know how it turns out.

Offline sharpm1

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Re: Testing a dash clock
« Reply #31 on: December 08, 2011, 12:18:28 AM »
My process was pretty straightforward to get the clock going.  Removed it from cluster.  Sprayed a little contact cleaner on the gear mechanism.  Then with a horologist oil bottle...lightly oiled all pinion points.  Before I was done with the lubrication job...the clock started on its own.  It was pretty cool to observe.  My contact points were in the almost OPEN position which told me the clock simply stopped due to dirt/dust.  The contact points were not in bad shape.  This is a pretty nice little time piece.  I think this took about 15 minutes or so to complete once out of the car. 

Offline 70cj428

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Re: Testing a dash clock
« Reply #32 on: December 08, 2011, 03:15:08 AM »
Hi guys,  Just FYI, when it comes to clock repair, cheaper may not be better, try and get some references before leaving your clock for repair. In my 30+ years as a professional clockmaker I've seen a ton of stuff screwed up by inexperienced/sloppy repair people, especially car clocks as they were very inexpensive clock movements to begin with and were never designed to be dissassembled and serviced. I recommended ISI in my post above as I've used alot of their conversion movements in the past and had very few problems, but I'm in no way affiliated with them....... I can tell you that a quality quartz conversion  in your original clock results in a MUCH better clock than an overhauled or even NOS original, It will keep much better time using almost no power so you won't have to worry about drain on the battery, and low voltage won't damage the clock. Once installed, the conversion is almost undetectable with the exception on the second hand motion. A quartz clock's second hand moves with an abrupt jump every second, the original balance wheel mechanism moves the second hand in more of a sweeping motion.  I know that the vette guys can lose points in concours judging having a quartz clock, but I'm not sure at what level it becomes an issue in mustang classes, maybe one of the judges here can chime in.................

As for disconnecting the battery, I personally feel that your chances of a spontanious electrical fire in a well maintained/restored car are extremely low, but being able to move the car quickly is pretty important.  ( I still do clockwork by appt. only, but I became a professional Firefighter in Phila, PA when I was paying 2100.00 a month for healthcare, we had a job about a year ago where a 66 mustang A code 4 speed convertible and a street rod burnt to the ground cause they were parked in by another, immobile car in a body shop)  I'll stop rambling now,...John 


PS. Disconnecting the battery may be a good idea on a rimblow car with an old switch, I've had 2 cars over the years start spontainously blowing the horn while parked cause the switch shorted   :o

Offline 68 S Code

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Re: Testing a dash clock
« Reply #33 on: December 08, 2011, 11:45:54 PM »
John your response surprised me as I would have thought the opposite on the movement and how the second hand either swept or ticked off the seconds. Well I will do a little investigation on these other less expensive guys before I leave the clock. Thanks for the info on ISI. I spoke with Lori a few days ago.

Offline 68 S Code

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Re: Testing a dash clock
« Reply #34 on: December 13, 2011, 07:03:59 PM »
Well the clock is ticking....literally. One of the guys I mentioned said to stop by and see his home shop and he could at least look at it. Works out of his basement and has been fixing clocks and gauges for 25 years. Had about a dozen clocks under testing when I showed up. He took the cover off, took the three screws off to remove the coil and one point. Tried to get the balance wheel to swing and noticed that lever(?) must have popped off when I sprayed it. Popped it back on, cleaned a point, reassembled, hooked it on the test stand and adjusted it within a second of real running time. I stood around for an hour while he tested and adjusted talking about t-birds, mercs, etc. Once satisfied he Popped on the cover and said $20 bucks. Back in business. He strongly recommended the quartz but said give it a go mechanically for now. Cluster goes back in tomorrow. By the way the four numbers on the back of the case are decoded as such. First 3 numbers are the day of the year and last number is year. So 3457 is 345th day of 67.

Offline 68 S Code

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Re: Testing a dash clock
« Reply #35 on: December 15, 2011, 07:09:07 PM »
Clock installed in cluster. Cluster installed in car. Battery connected and clock was ticking away. Thanks for all the help.