Topic: Finally

[68 S Code]

Well after being apart for the past 26 years I finally got a chance to take the 68 GT convertible for a short drive. Although a nagging vacuum leak persists making the brake pedal non power assisted at low rpm's they work great once up and running. Still need to finish up some details but at this point, to the average person, it looks like a done car. We in the hobby know there is always something else we need to get looking just right. Some small bits and pieces to locate and refinish and some bigger ones to install (if I ever remember where I put those NOS rocker moldings) but it was good to finally get a little seat time. Looking to get it finally washed and polished so I can drive it home to show the rest of the family what I've been working on diligently for the past 16 months. Wife happy that most of the car is out of the basement. Older son will be shocked to see that the pool table can be used for it's intended purpose and not a work bench.

[ruppstang]

Congrats, I thought you had been quiet this week. Marty

[68 S Code]

There were some undercarriage touchups to get done before I lowered her off jack stands and engine bay details to take care of before firing it up and dialing her in. My biggest fear were the brakes as I didn't know why they just didn't feel right. To check the system we verified that we had vacuum from motor to booster. We then ran a smoke test to see if there were any leaks. Found a small one. Wasn't easily fixable yesterday but we knew we had vacuum just not at low rpm's so we went for broke and took her out. We found brakes were very good but the vacuum leak made them manual brakes at low revs.

Need to try to touchup the steering column tonight and install the original steering wheel. Then I'll put on the good wiper arm and search for another better one. Install final air cleaner and then wash and polish.

[TLea]

Ummmmmmmmmmmm, pictures?

[68 S Code]

Not cleaned up yet and wrong tires and wheels. Marty sending me the missing wiper arm and still looking for my rocker moldings. Thought I had a Boss 302 PVC valve that I wanted to trade. Turns out I had the right Valve for a big block all along per Bob Perkins.  Painting the block, valve and hose tomorrow. Spring clamp soaking in evaporust now. By the way how is it that the block and valve get painted blue but the plastic coated ring looks like it doesnt get even a hint of overspray. Tim I'll try to get some pics posted in the next week.

[Bob Gaines]

Not cleaned up yet and wrong tires and wheels. Marty sending me the missing wiper arm and still looking for my rocker moldings. Thought I had a Boss 302 PVC valve that I wanted to trade. Turns out I had the right Valve for a big block all along per Bob Perkins.  Painting the block, valve and hose tomorrow. Spring clamp soaking in evaporust now. By the way how is it that the block and valve get painted blue but the plastic coated ring looks like it doesnt get even a hint of overspray. Tim I'll try to get some pics posted in the next week.

Typically the paint didn't get sprayed much passed the block on the pcv. I don't normally see the valve itself painted. Bob

[68 S Code]

That's what I would have thought but after looking at Bob P's two 69 CJs both low milage originals the block looked painted solid.  The PVC was free of any paint. I would think overspray on the block and maybe dusting on PVC.

[68 S Code]

Went and installed the PVC valve and hose after paint dried. Popped the S tube into place and went to install the detailed air cleaner assembly. Problem...... snorkle and S tube dont want to line up. Hmmmmm. Everything lined up when the motor was on the test stand. Think......whats different? HEATER hoses. I routed one of the heater hoses high. Up and over the PVC hose. Guess what? Causes interference with air cleaner assembly.  Now I have to drain some of the radiator to get the coolant level down so I dont spill coolant all over the engine, maybe remove the smog canister and hoses and who knows what else. One step forward two steps back is the motto of this project. Ugh!

[68 S Code]

Drained a gallon + out of the radiator and went for broke on the heater hose which connects to the manifold fitting. Had rags ready for the imminent coolant spill. Pulled of the hose and raised it as quickly as I could. No spill. In fact I had a small container within reach and figured I'd get any fluid out of the hose before I threaded it under the PCV lines and hoses and the choke stove lines. Not even a drop came out. Seems I have an air pocket in the system maybe at the heater core. How so I eliminate this? The shop manual says something about pulling line off the heater core but that's not foxing to happen at this point so what do you guys suggest. Cooling system was dry when I filled it. Shop manual stated 20 quarts for a capacity but system only took 18. I think I now know why. Heater core empty. How do I fill it? Turn the heater on?

[midlife]

There's always going to be an air pocket when you first fill up the radiator and cooling system starting with a dry engine.  Take the radiator cap off, run the engine until the thermostat opens (you'll see water passing through the top tank or the water drops).  Fill the radiator up again and wait for the radiator to settle (may have to add water again): water moves but no more air bubbles.  With continued running of the car, the water will expand and pop out of the tank with the cap off.

[68 S Code]

Midlife thanks for the suggestion. Sent you a PM about a wiring issue.