GENERAL FAQ’s that apply across categories and sections.
Question 1 - What does “restored” mean?
Like many other words in the hobby it can be used in many different ways by owners and observers. In its strictest form it means returning a car to the same form as how it was first delivered. This means that the car is painted the same color, same interior style and color, and so on. Most judging organizations have different rules so educate yourself to those particular issues and requirements. For example, some may require that the car be restored to the way it was delivered to the dealership (and will have access to resources that will show this) while others will allow you to show the car as was delivered to the original owner or even with period correct options added by the owner.
Question 2 - I’m restoring my car. Where can I find information about how I should finish (paint, plate, natural) specific parts?
First suggestion would be to obtain a set of MCA Judging Rules for your particular car. This will answer many but not all of your finish question. Another source is original car, magazine articles with similar show cars and Osborn Assembly Manuals. Each of these may contain some inconsistencies and errors so we suggest you double or triple check sources. Finally, the Classic Mustang sites/forums can serve as a variable source to check with judges and other restorers who should be able to share the most up to date information related to your particular vehicle.
Question 3 - What does NOS really mean?
Like the word “rebuilt” NOS (New Old Stock) means many different things to different people. In its strictest terms it means parts that were cast or made around the same time as the car it was meant for was built. Parts made in the years to follow by Ford are often referred to as NOSR (New Old Stock Replacement). In most cases NOS parts will serve the same purpose as original parts they replace but may look slightly or very different from the original. Make sure you understand these differences before you spend allot of money for these parts, often restoring the original part will be a better choice, in the long run, than using a NOS or reproduction part.
Question 4 - I want to restore my Mustang but don’t know where to start. Do I do the suspension, engine, body or interior first?
It really depends on your situation, ability and resources. For an all out restoration many will follow the following outline.
1. Research and obtaining needed parts
2. Disassembly – taking care to label & document parts and findings
3. Repair of any unibody damage
4. Body work and paint (often if this is farmed out owners will use this time to refinish individual parts and the drive train, packaging each for protection.
(The following steps can be completed in many different orders based on the situation and your choice.)
5. If the undercarriage and engine compartment have been correctly painted install the electrical next
6. Suspension
7. Drive train
8. Interior
9. Exterior
Question 5 - What color should I use for door and trunk weather strip adhesive?
Originally your car would have been build with yellow brushed on weather strip adhesive.
Question 6 - What color should I paint my undercarriage/floors?
Factories differed from one another and from year to year. Early cars tended to use straight epoxy primer sealer and as the years went by Ford added surplus exterior colors (mixed with the primer sealer) to reduce cost and to improve the sealing properties. We suggest that you first look to your own car for clues. Typically a spot high in the driveline tunnel will yield a sample. Lacking that you should search out another Mustang built at the same factory at approximately the same time period.
Question 7 - I’ve seen power steering pumps (66-73) painted semi-gloss black or a teal blue. Which is correct for my car?
During the production of the classic Mustang production years Ford used/installed power steering pumps made by one of two suppliers. Multiple suppliers were a common practice for Ford during this period. The following chart will allow you to determine what pump your car has and what the original color was.
Supplier Identification Pump Color
TRW On tag – “W” 2nd digit in bottom line Black
Ford Thompson On tag – “F” in center line Teal/Blue
Question 8 – I know that part of the body was assembled when it was painted with body color. What parts do I need to have on the uni-body and which panels were painted off the car?
You are correct; some of the body parts were installed prior to painting the cars body color and because of that retaining parts such as hinges and bolts were also painted. Both doors, trunk lid and the rear valance (number of mounting screws installed at the time of painting differs from plant to plant) at the time the body was painted. The rear valance was allow to hang from the taillight panel this let overspray wrap around the ends and pass through the back up light mounting holes onto the panels behind them in a limited way.
Rear bumper guard mounting brackets were also installed behind the valance and end caps/quarter panel extensions were loosely installed on but slightly away from the body.
Question 9 – I see restored cars with undercarriages painted different colors. Some are a red oxide while others are all black or an odd looking color that does not seem to match anything. What is original?
Thanks for asking. Too often owners simply copy someone else’s efforts without finding out what they did or didn’t do something. In this case the answer depends on when the car was build and what factory. Each factory had different practices and methods. Some due to suppliers, some due to the way the plant or that particular station was laid out.
Bottom line is that you need to look at when your car was built and where. From there you need to look at original cars built at the same plant and at the same time as the color(s) used under the car can change from week to week. Specific discussions of a particular period of time can be started in the related section of this forum – we’ll be happy to help.
Question 10 – I see lots of show cars with writing in the wheel wells or on the rear ends. Also see some cars with lots of paint daubs and others with nothing. What are these, do I need them on my car and where do you find information about what goes where?
These marks, stamps and writing had many purposes and were applied by many different people. Basically these marks either identified a part from another, identified who assembled, worked on the part or car or the person that inspected the part of work.
It is important that you do not copy marks from another car without allot of research and reflecting. It is always better not to add a mark or daub that you are not 100% comfortable with than to add one and find out it was not correct for the application.
Where to find the correct marks and daubs that belong on your specific car is a difficult question. Through study it appears that many/some are specific to that one car while others are more general and are somewhat common. At least within similar cars, built around the same time and assembly plant. Your particular car and its build sheet are the best sources for any paint marks and daubs. In 67-up build sheets many of the marking colors are identified on the sheet and finding them on your car will help with placement as well as size and shape.
Question 11 – What is the recommended paint code and products for Ford Corporate Blue engine paint?
This is covered in a multitude of threads but here are the products and code as of the date of this writing. Check your paint provider for product updates and changes.
- Ditzler DAR 13358 acrylic enamel
- Mix it with some DXR 80 Delthane Ultra Urethane Hardener
- Add Ditzler DX 265 All Purpose Flatting Base (have seen anywhere from 15-30% suggested)
- Use DTR-601 Reducer as needed
Question 12- I see allot of acronyms, shorthand & abbreviations used by members in their responses. What do they all mean?
Commonly used Acronyms, Shorthand & Abbreviations on CMF
Below is a short list of abbreviations that are often used and seen on this site. Some of the usage can differ based on the context of the post. Example might be PS. In a discussion about front suspension PS will likely be shorthand for Power Steering while in a context about the vehicles body PS could refer to Passenger Side. We hope this list will assist members in understanding the helpful posts and information shared here at ConcoursMustang.com
AC or A/C - Air Conditioning
AHJ - Assistant Head Judge
Auto - Automatic Transmission
B2 - Boss 302
B351 - Boss 351
B9 - Boss 429
BB -Big Block
BTW - By The Way
CJ - Cobra Jet
CMF - ConcoursMustang-Forum
CV - Convertible
DAP - Dearborn Assembly Plant
DS - Driver Side
DSO - District Sales Order or Domestic Special Order
FB - Fastback or for later years Sportroof
GT/CS - California Special. But not necessarily a "GT" optioned car
HCS - High Country Special
HJ - Head Judge
HT - Hardtop or Coupe
IMCO - IMproved CObustion
IMO - In My Opinion
IMHO - In My Humble Opinion
LCA - Lower Control Arm
MCA - Mustang Club of America
MPC - Master Parts Catalog. This can be single year or multiple year printings. Complete set includes part number and illustrated parts sections.
NOS - New Old Stock. What does that mean - check the threads as there is plenty of discussions about the subject.
NJ - New Jersey / Metuchen Assembly Plant
OP - Original Poster
P & O - Phosphate and Oil
PCV - Positive Crankcase Ventilation
PO - Past Owner
PS - Power Steering or Passenger Side
P/S - Power Steering
PVS - Ported Vacuum Switch / Distributor Vacuum Control Valve
SAAC - Shelby American Auto Club
SB - Small Block
SCJ - Super Cobra Jet
SGB - Semi-Gloss Black
SJ - San Jose / Milpitas Ford Assembly Plant
TDC - Top Dead Center
TSB - Technical Service Bulletin
UCA - Upper Control Arm
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SPECIFIC FAQ’s RELATED TO 70 BOSS CARS
Note: Be sure to check the related Mustang sections for more FAQ that may have not be included here.
More will be added as time passes - Thanks
