Author Topic: Restoring a 1968 1/2 428CJ water pump  (Read 7378 times)

Offline RoyceP

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Re: Restoring a 1968 1/2 428CJ water pump
« Reply #15 on: January 11, 2021, 06:41:22 PM »
Last pictures - I smeared gasket sealer on the water nipple, then used the plastic faced hammer to install it. Not shown - I need to wipe the whole thing down with lacquer thinner before priming because I got grease and sealant all over the outside.
1968 W code 427 Cougar XR-7 GTE Feb 23 Dearborn C6 / 3.50 open
1968 R code 428CJ Cougar XR-7 May 13 Dearborn C6 / 3.91 T - Lock

Offline Bob Gaines

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Re: Restoring a 1968 1/2 428CJ water pump
« Reply #16 on: January 11, 2021, 09:37:34 PM »
Thank you for your effort of showing your step by step process. I appreciate knowing.
« Last Edit: January 12, 2021, 12:45:24 AM by Bob Gaines »
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Offline midlife

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Re: Restoring a 1968 1/2 428CJ water pump
« Reply #17 on: January 11, 2021, 10:04:21 PM »
Nicely done, including the photo documentation!
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Offline RoyceP

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Re: Restoring a 1968 1/2 428CJ water pump
« Reply #18 on: January 12, 2021, 11:17:51 AM »
Thanks just trying to make it easier on the next guy. I did not find anything specific to rebuilding an FE water pump in several Google searches or from searching here.
1968 W code 427 Cougar XR-7 GTE Feb 23 Dearborn C6 / 3.50 open
1968 R code 428CJ Cougar XR-7 May 13 Dearborn C6 / 3.91 T - Lock

Offline jmlay

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Re: Restoring a 1968 1/2 428CJ water pump
« Reply #19 on: January 15, 2021, 05:12:38 PM »
Any reason you chose to not use the original impellers vs the replacements?
Mike

1969 Mach1 428 CJ Ram Air
San Jose
Scheduled Build: 1/2/1969
Actual Build: 1/3/1969
Released: 1/8/1969

Offline RoyceP

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Re: Restoring a 1968 1/2 428CJ water pump
« Reply #20 on: January 15, 2021, 07:23:10 PM »
I used the DNO impeller to replace the small OEM one. I rebuilt the second pump using the larger (same diameter as the DNO impeller) OEM impeller.

Any reason you chose to not use the original impellers vs the replacements?
1968 W code 427 Cougar XR-7 GTE Feb 23 Dearborn C6 / 3.50 open
1968 R code 428CJ Cougar XR-7 May 13 Dearborn C6 / 3.91 T - Lock

Offline 67350#1242

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Re: Restoring a 1968 1/2 428CJ water pump
« Reply #21 on: January 16, 2021, 09:54:14 PM »
Thanks for the pictures - I would think one could follow along and do any of our pumps big or small block.  How did you go about removing the nipple?
67 Coupe SJ 11/16/66
67 GT350 SJ 2/01/67

Offline RoyceP

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Re: Restoring a 1968 1/2 428CJ water pump
« Reply #22 on: January 16, 2021, 10:26:38 PM »
The nipple came out when I grabbed it with some vice grip pliers. I just squeezed and pulled.
1968 W code 427 Cougar XR-7 GTE Feb 23 Dearborn C6 / 3.50 open
1968 R code 428CJ Cougar XR-7 May 13 Dearborn C6 / 3.91 T - Lock

Offline Bossbill

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Re: Restoring a 1968 1/2 428CJ water pump
« Reply #23 on: January 17, 2021, 02:26:51 PM »
Interesting read. The photos are great. Thanks.

My tubes were very, very stuck. I used an old non-OEM pump to try out a method for removing them prior to doing the "real" pump.

Find a bolt or other solid steel shaft that fits very tightly inside the tube, but don't insert it yet.  Heat up the housing. I had to resort to an Oxy-Acy torch to heat the housing as my tubes would not come out under normal propane torch heat.
Insert the bolt or shaft and then grab the tube and twist it out. The insert prevents the tube from collapsing.
Too much heat could damage the seal/brg so do this on an empty housing or before the rebuild.
Bill
Concours  Actual Ford Build 3/2/67 GT350 01375
Driven      6/6/70 0T02G160xxx Boss 302
Modified   5/18/65 5F09A728xxx Boss 347 Terminator-X 8-Stack
Race        65 2+2 Coupe conversion

Offline Anghelrestorations

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Re: Restoring a 1968 1/2 428CJ water pump
« Reply #24 on: November 11, 2023, 01:28:21 AM »
Great write up and photos.  Came across this while I am in the middle of rebuilding some water pumps. 
Adding some photos here because I think one critical thing is missing.   Before you take anything apart you should measure the overall distance from the mounting surface of the pump to the flange where the drive pulley mounts.  This is a critical measurement because you want the pulley/fan to be in the same location.  You are not limited how far you can press that flange in the place so could be off quite a bit if not careful.
Worth the extra effort to check prior to disassembly. 

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