Author Topic: 1968 San Jose GT 390 Fastback A-Arm Restoration  (Read 4985 times)

Offline Bob Gaines

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Re: 1968 San Jose GT 390 Fastback A-Arm Restoration
« Reply #45 on: November 08, 2023, 11:57:19 PM »
That is one angle but what do they look like from the side. That is the angle that is most viewable when someone bends down to look from the front underneath.It is a expensive and time consuming proposing to restore a lower control arm so unless you have a new looking (show quality ) arm then it isn't worth the trouble IMO but that is just me. Of course that is if you are trying to make look like new or nearly new. A good core is not that hard to find IMO. If all else fails some of the better repros can be used as cores to modify and make better. 
« Last Edit: November 09, 2023, 12:01:11 AM by Bob Gaines »
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Offline dkknab

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Re: 1968 San Jose GT 390 Fastback A-Arm Restoration
« Reply #46 on: November 09, 2023, 08:16:38 AM »
.....It is a expensive and time consuming proposing to restore a lower control arm so unless you have a new looking (show quality ) arm then it isn't worth the trouble IMO but that is just me. Of course that is if you are trying to make look like new or nearly new. A good core is not that hard to find IMO. If all else fails some of the better repros can be used as cores to modify and make better.

Which core or repo do you recommend that is closest? It seems Scott Drake is the only game in town.

It appears the jacking points on new repos like Scott Drake are not exact so I'm guessing that would have to be modified unless that is not an issue.  The other piece is ensuring the dipped black look on the rear of the LCA and bare metal up front.  The other is the riveted ball joint.

Are there any other details that must be done to have a concours driven correct LCA?
David Knab

1968 Sunlit Gold Coupe Sprint B
289 2V, AT, PS
Nugget Gold Interior
April 5, 1968 Build Date, Metuchen Plant

2019 Bullitt Highland Green K7662

Offline Bob Gaines

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Re: 1968 San Jose GT 390 Fastback A-Arm Restoration
« Reply #47 on: November 09, 2023, 01:44:06 PM »
Which core or repo do you recommend that is closest? It seems Scott Drake is the only game in town.

It appears the jacking points on new repos like Scott Drake are not exact so I'm guessing that would have to be modified unless that is not an issue.  The other piece is ensuring the dipped black look on the rear of the LCA and bare metal up front.  The other is the riveted ball joint.

Are there any other details that must be done to have a concours driven correct LCA?
My first choice would be to buy a rust free used core .  You will have to do your research on sourcing there. LCA ball joint seldom if ever wears out. It is the upper that wears out. The repros you will have to modify but given they are new you will not have to deal with rust . Some repros already have original assemblyline looking boots others you will have to add. You will have to do your research there. Who does the re riveting pf the boot plate is another thing you will have to do your research on.I think all repros you have to add "correct looking jack tabs to.You will have to do your research there to identify. You can source jack tabs from used originals that might otherwise be too pitted or damaged to restore. You drill out the spot welds to take off and use the drilled hole to weld back. You can dress the weld to look like a spot weld and paint dip the arm to cover any dress up body work.You will have to do your research there. There are a number of people that sell a show quality restored arm which are the only ones people will want to buy given the price .You will have to do your research there. As you can tell this can get very involved. Sorry but typing and describing every possible aspect and detail is more typing then I care to do.
« Last Edit: November 09, 2023, 01:46:35 PM by Bob Gaines »
Bob Gaines,Shelby enthusiast, Shelby collector , Shelby concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

Offline bullitt68

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Re: 1968 San Jose GT 390 Fastback A-Arm Restoration
« Reply #48 on: November 09, 2023, 02:40:59 PM »
Which core or repo do you recommend that is closest? It seems Scott Drake is the only game in town.

It appears the jacking points on new repos like Scott Drake are not exact so I'm guessing that would have to be modified unless that is not an issue.  The other piece is ensuring the dipped black look on the rear of the LCA and bare metal up front.  The other is the riveted ball joint.

Are there any other details that must be done to have a concours driven correct LCA?

FYI there is an article in the library I believe on restoring control arms. Also in my build thread I showed how I restored mine and also Boss Bill has a similar post if you decide to restore your own. As Bob pointed out there are several vendors who make replacement control arms, some looking more correct than others. Also note that while we are talking concourse restoration, please bear in mind that different sometimes people interpret that differently. In true concourse the emphasis is purely on appearance and factory correctness. However some built concourse cars that will be driven or are in tended to be driven, so you have to take that in account. If you are building strictly car a show vehicle then the choices should be clear. But if you are planning to drive the car, then you need to make decisions that allow for the car to be driven and safe, which can affect the approach to the project and subsequent parts. I am not sure what your intentions are with the car, but if you are building the car to be judged, then you need to make sure everything is perfect or stand the chance of significant disappoint when the car gets judged.
Mike
1968 Mustang Fastback GT 390 Raven Black, 4 speed
8R02S162374, San Jose, June 5, 1968

Offline bullitt68

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Re: 1968 San Jose GT 390 Fastback A-Arm Restoration
« Reply #49 on: November 09, 2023, 02:45:02 PM »
That is one angle but what do they look like from the side. That is the angle that is most viewable when someone bends down to look from the front underneath.It is a expensive and time consuming proposing to restore a lower control arm so unless you have a new looking (show quality ) arm then it isn't worth the trouble IMO but that is just me. Of course that is if you are trying to make look like new or nearly new. A good core is not that hard to find IMO. If all else fails some of the better repros can be used as cores to modify and make better. 

I am not sure what we are looking at in this photo, but there appears to be a lot of pitting and corrosion on the parts in this photo. Looks more like a driver quality car to me than a concourse restoration. Not criticizing it, just a general observation IMO. If the control arms are a concern, then I would also be concerned about several other parts as well
Mike
1968 Mustang Fastback GT 390 Raven Black, 4 speed
8R02S162374, San Jose, June 5, 1968

Offline dkknab

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Re: 1968 San Jose GT 390 Fastback A-Arm Restoration
« Reply #50 on: November 09, 2023, 03:42:31 PM »
I am not sure what we are looking at in this photo, but there appears to be a lot of pitting and corrosion on the parts in this photo. Looks more like a driver quality car to me than a concourse restoration. Not criticizing it, just a general observation IMO. If the control arms are a concern, then I would also be concerned about several other parts as well

Thanks Mike for the comments.  I'd be curious any details you can provide.  This is/ was a driven car that I'm moving toward concours driven without taking it completely apart and off line.  You should have seen the underside a couple of years ago. I'm trying to make incremental progress.  I'm guessing I'll get to a point where I'll have to pull the engine and transmission but I'm not there yet.

Thanks again

David
David Knab

1968 Sunlit Gold Coupe Sprint B
289 2V, AT, PS
Nugget Gold Interior
April 5, 1968 Build Date, Metuchen Plant

2019 Bullitt Highland Green K7662

Offline bullitt68

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Re: 1968 San Jose GT 390 Fastback A-Arm Restoration
« Reply #51 on: November 09, 2023, 04:16:09 PM »
Thanks Mike for the comments.  I'd be curious any details you can provide.  This is/ was a driven car that I'm moving toward concours driven without taking it completely apart and off line.  You should have seen the underside a couple of years ago. I'm trying to make incremental progress.  I'm guessing I'll get to a point where I'll have to pull the engine and transmission but I'm not there yet.

Thanks again

David

Thanks for clarification. A lot of times these builds are full frame off endeavours which is why I was curious about your car as it did not appear to be that type of project. Are you still driving the car while doing the work?

Since your car will be a driven class car you may want to get a copy of the MCA judging class manual and use that as a guide to your restoration and adjust accordingly. IMO if that is the class you will be judged in, then build it specifically for that class and not for a thoroughbred class. The judging guide outlines what is judged in each class. Then focus on the judged items and continue to enjoy your car. In a lot of cases the cars discussed here are thoroughbred class cars, and the level of detail generally requires a full rotisserie restoration to achieve a high scoring car imo.

OCCASIONAL DRIVEN & DAILY DRIVEN MUSTANG RULES

Cars in these classes will be judged for workmanship, cleanliness and condition only. Cars in
these classes will NOT be judged on authenticity.
Undercarriages will be inspected at Classification. Occasional Driven Class and Daily
Driven Class undercarriage MAY be detailed to or near Concours Standards, so as to
encourage owners to eventually move to the Concours or Modified classes.
Engine compartments and undercarriages will be judged only on Occasional Driven cars.
Undercarriage may be clean but must show evidence of street use.
Daily Driven Class MUST have engine compartments closed. Undercarriages will NOT be
judged.

Replacement parts should be stock, OEM or similar aftermarket. Cars in these classes are
expected to have aftermarket parts. For Daily Driver Class: Tires MUST show evidence of
street use or owner must present proof of recent purchase within the last six (6) months.

Modifications: Cars with modifications will be evaluated during classification to determine if
they will be eligible for occasional / daily driven classes. Good workmanship applies when
replacing tires, hub caps, etc., Occasional Driven Class and Daily Driven Class - Spare
tire and rim are not required to match.

For Daily Driven Class only, interior must show evidence of daily use. A car with a newly
installed interior will not be disqualified from the Daily Driver Class if the rest of the
requirements are met.

For Daily Driven Class only: Exterior paint must show daily driving wear and tear (minor
chips, dings, scratches, etc.). A range of wear in the Occasional Driven Class would be to
near flawless to minimal wear; for Daily Driven Class, minimal wear to well enjoyed. A
freshly painted car will be accepted in Daily Driven Class if the rest of the requirements are
met.

Daily Driven Class classMUST be the owners primary transportation to qualify for
this class.
Mike
1968 Mustang Fastback GT 390 Raven Black, 4 speed
8R02S162374, San Jose, June 5, 1968

Offline dkknab

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Re: 1968 San Jose GT 390 Fastback A-Arm Restoration
« Reply #52 on: November 09, 2023, 04:36:42 PM »
Thanks for the info Mike.  I've been showing my car,  most recently at Melbourne this past September,  in Concours Driven.  My first show was Florence a couple of years ago when I first realized the extent of work I had to do.  What a huge wake-up call that was. At Melbourne I'm happy to report I earned a Silver but the more important piece is I got another set of judging eyes to pour over my car and give me places to attack that were incorrect.   Of course, I'm making changes as time and money are available.  Next up for my car is the 60th Anniversary show next April. On my list is the rear end, specifically the springs and related hardware.

Thanks again.

David
David Knab

1968 Sunlit Gold Coupe Sprint B
289 2V, AT, PS
Nugget Gold Interior
April 5, 1968 Build Date, Metuchen Plant

2019 Bullitt Highland Green K7662

Offline dkknab

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Re: 1968 San Jose GT 390 Fastback A-Arm Restoration
« Reply #53 on: November 09, 2023, 05:56:27 PM »
I'm curious,  can the boot be replaced without removing the rivets and the plate from the LCA?
David Knab

1968 Sunlit Gold Coupe Sprint B
289 2V, AT, PS
Nugget Gold Interior
April 5, 1968 Build Date, Metuchen Plant

2019 Bullitt Highland Green K7662

Offline bullitt68

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Re: 1968 San Jose GT 390 Fastback A-Arm Restoration
« Reply #54 on: November 09, 2023, 06:03:44 PM »
I'm curious,  can the boot be replaced without removing the rivets and the plate from the LCA?

No the plate is what holds the boot in place
Mike
1968 Mustang Fastback GT 390 Raven Black, 4 speed
8R02S162374, San Jose, June 5, 1968