Author Topic: Correct 1966 SJ 6 cylinder PS control valve finish.  (Read 1436 times)

Offline dsielke

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Re: Correct 1966 SJ 6 cylinder PS control valve finish.
« Reply #15 on: January 06, 2023, 02:00:04 PM »
I just cleaned up the original clamp and it was really pitted and I couldn?t get it all out. I was looking at some NOS one available and the all appear to be cad or dichromate gold. Is that not assembly correct? I don?t think the original is serviceable.
6R09A138419: 1966 GT Fastback, Springtime Yellow
6R08T138429: 1966 Convertible, Tahoe Turquoise

Offline Bossbill

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Re: Correct 1966 SJ 6 cylinder PS control valve finish.
« Reply #16 on: January 06, 2023, 02:54:58 PM »
Go to the box store and buy some muriatic acid (aka concrete cleaner). Dip object until all the bubbles go away.
Then either flush the object in a lot of water or get another container and mix up a solution of baking soda and water and dip in there afterwards.
Bill
Concours  Actual Ford Build 3/2/67 GT350 01375
Driven      6/6/70 0T02G160xxx Boss 302
Modified   5/18/65 5F09A728xxx 347 Terminator-X 8-Stack
Race        65 2+2 Coupe conversion

Offline dsielke

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Re: Correct 1966 SJ 6 cylinder PS control valve finish.
« Reply #17 on: January 06, 2023, 03:04:03 PM »
Go to the box store and buy some muriatic acid (aka concrete cleaner). Dip object until all the bubbles go away.
Then either flush the object in a lot of water or get another container and mix up a solution of baking soda and water and dip in there afterwards.

Will that get rid of the pitting? I soaked it in evaporust so it doesn?t have any rust left, just a lot of deep pitting.
6R09A138419: 1966 GT Fastback, Springtime Yellow
6R08T138429: 1966 Convertible, Tahoe Turquoise

Offline carlite65

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Re: Correct 1966 SJ 6 cylinder PS control valve finish.
« Reply #18 on: January 06, 2023, 03:07:15 PM »
no that won't fix the pitting. is is there for all time. you need a better part.
5F09C331248

Offline dsielke

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Re: Correct 1966 SJ 6 cylinder PS control valve finish.
« Reply #19 on: January 06, 2023, 03:18:54 PM »
no that won't fix the pitting. is is there for all time. you need a better part.


That what I figured, I guess I need to order one of the NOS kits I saw, thanks.
6R09A138419: 1966 GT Fastback, Springtime Yellow
6R08T138429: 1966 Convertible, Tahoe Turquoise

Offline J_Speegle

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Re: Correct 1966 SJ 6 cylinder PS control valve finish.
« Reply #20 on: January 06, 2023, 07:39:17 PM »

That what I figured, I guess I need to order one of the NOS kits I saw, thanks.

Compare the "NOS" one to your originals. Not all NOS parts are designed or fashioned like assembly line pieces so don't assume they are. ;)
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)

Offline dsielke

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Re: Correct 1966 SJ 6 cylinder PS control valve finish.
« Reply #21 on: January 06, 2023, 07:59:41 PM »
Absolutely. In the pictures it looks right but I will compare before I use it.
6R09A138419: 1966 GT Fastback, Springtime Yellow
6R08T138429: 1966 Convertible, Tahoe Turquoise

Offline Bossbill

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Re: Correct 1966 SJ 6 cylinder PS control valve finish.
« Reply #22 on: January 06, 2023, 08:46:05 PM »
Go to the box store and buy some muriatic acid (aka concrete cleaner). Dip object until all the bubbles go away.
Then either flush the object in a lot of water or get another container and mix up a solution of baking soda and water and dip in there afterwards.

Will that get rid of the pitting? I soaked it in evaporust so it doesn?t have any rust left, just a lot of deep pitting.

It appears you have followed none of the plating threads. A lot of NOS parts are cad or dichromate finished for long term storage.

The method above removes cad and zinc dichromate finishes and leaves bare steel, as original.
Do it outside as the fumes are hazardous.
Bill
Concours  Actual Ford Build 3/2/67 GT350 01375
Driven      6/6/70 0T02G160xxx Boss 302
Modified   5/18/65 5F09A728xxx 347 Terminator-X 8-Stack
Race        65 2+2 Coupe conversion

Offline Bossbill

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Re: Correct 1966 SJ 6 cylinder PS control valve finish.
« Reply #23 on: January 06, 2023, 09:15:10 PM »
no that won't fix the pitting. is is there for all time. you need a better part.

Or you can improve the part by removing the metal around the pits and finally the pits themselves. It does make the part thinner and if you aren't used to metal finishing on small rounded parts, appears to be impossible. If the part needs to be plated you must do that too.
In the case of bare metal you follow up with glass ball media blasting.

Here are some tough to find clips on which I used a 2" high speed Roloc flapper followed by Caswell Copy Cad plating. No more rust pits.
Bill
Concours  Actual Ford Build 3/2/67 GT350 01375
Driven      6/6/70 0T02G160xxx Boss 302
Modified   5/18/65 5F09A728xxx 347 Terminator-X 8-Stack
Race        65 2+2 Coupe conversion

Offline dsielke

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Re: Correct 1966 SJ 6 cylinder PS control valve finish.
« Reply #24 on: January 06, 2023, 09:28:51 PM »
I have been looking into plating solutions to do some parts
Myself but haven?t tackled that yet myself. Something I need to learn to do. Looking at casswell kits.

I did try sanding the part down but it really is too thin to get the pits out and remain usable sadly.
6R09A138419: 1966 GT Fastback, Springtime Yellow
6R08T138429: 1966 Convertible, Tahoe Turquoise

Offline dkknab

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Re: Correct 1966 SJ 6 cylinder PS control valve finish.
« Reply #25 on: January 07, 2023, 11:53:11 AM »
I can vouch for the ease and low cost of plating.  I used ingredients readily found at home and even pool products to clean,  etch,  and plate a variety of small parts.  I highly recommend it.  Plus the satisfaction of doing this yourself and cost savings because you don't need to send the parts out,  is a bonus.
David Knab

1968 Sunlit Gold Coupe Sprint B
289 2V, AT, PS
Nugget Gold Interior
April 5, 1968 Build Date, Metuchen Plant

2019 Bullitt Highland Green K7662