Topic: P & O finish

[BigB427]

Is there a paint or method that replicates the phosphate & oil finish that provides good lasting results?

[J_Speegle]

As always there are tradeoffs no matter which route you choose. Paint may cost less but often chip, yellow or lift over time. Doing the real thing will take more effort to maintain.

I haven't found a good paint product that will reproduce the flat gray finish of zinc phosphate and have found the East wood rattle cans much closer to magnesium phosphate


Maybe someone else has found a product they can recommend.


BTW - just so your aware, Judging organizations appear to be moving away from allowing painted reproduction of finishes on all concours cars. Not that you still can't do it  - but if they can tell you will loose points if and when the rules change.

[cobrajetchris]

I had several small parts (hood hinges, springs, shock tower brackets phosphated on my 70 BOSS 302 about 15 years ago and realy have had no problem with up keep or rust. The car is not daily driven or washed a lot. The rattle can is OK for some parts but you can always tell and like the other comment pointed out, if the build up of paint is too much on the hood springs it will not only chip but make the hinges bind up. The problem with phospate coating is finding someone willing to do that small amount of plating as the comapnies that do this are generaly set up for commercial accounts only, however I was lucky to find someone in my area that worked at one of the plants that does that and he did small parts on the side. I am sure this is true all over the country, so I would do some checking and you may also find they do other plating you will need like yellow cad plating used on different parts like tailight housings, etc..,. Remember before you send your parts to get plated they need to be completly clean and prefereably sand blasted. hope this helps......

[CharlesTurner]

I think if the phosphate is done properly, it should last a long time under normal conditions.  They key thing that I have learned and most skip is to make sure to submerge the parts for 24 hours in oil before using.  This allows the oil to penetrate into the phosphate.

[J_Speegle]

Would agree with prepping the parts before you send them in for plating. The blasting I would only do if the part was badly rusted since the process will change the look of the final plated part

[CharlesTurner]

Yep, agree with Jeff.  If blasting is necessary, 40psi with fine to medium grade glass bead will prevent the surface from being etched.  Most any other media will create a rough surface on the parts, which can lead to "frosty" looking results.