Topic: Refinishing surface of botched distributor restoration/rebuild

[Christine_208]

I have a distributor for my 68 that I've been trying to bring back to having all its proper parts. One of the last ones was to find a proper part-numbered, and date-coded distributor. I thought I found a rebuilder I could trust with the one I had found but when I got it back in addition to replacing the original vacuum advance and tossing the original without asking me, he pretty much polished the hell out of the body of the distributor.

I'm not looking to do a concours-level restoration as this is more of a sentimental project than anything else (it is a one-family car). But I would like to have the distributor look correct with a finish that one would expect for a well-maintained, and well-cleaned 55 y.o. car. In other words, if it looks good from 3 feet I'll be happy.

Any suggestions for how I can bring back the surface to look close to original?

Thanks!!

Pictures attached. (And yes, it is that shiny.)

P.S. I'm new here and was not able to figure out how to insert pictures into the text. I'll be working on learning how to do that.   

[jwc66k]

About the best I could suggest is a lite bead blasting to "rough up" the surface, or try a rough grade sandpaper, 100 grit. Try it first.
I use a desk top computer with a lot of software to "enhance" a picture, save it to a directory and then I copy it via the "Attachments and other options" feature at the bottom of a post, including this one, to a thread. If you are using a phone to post a picture, I can't help you.
In answer to your first post from December, 2021, try this Forum's library, topic - Mustang Distributors".
Jim

[Bob Gaines]

I have a distributor for my 68 that I've been trying to bring back to having all its proper parts. One of the last ones was to find a proper part-numbered, and date-coded distributor. I thought I found a rebuilder I could trust with the one I had found but when I got it back in addition to replacing the original vacuum advance and tossing the original without asking me, he pretty much polished the hell out of the body of the distributor.

I'm not looking to do a concours-level restoration as this is more of a sentimental project than anything else (it is a one-family car). But I would like to have the distributor look correct with a finish that one would expect for a well-maintained, and well-cleaned 55 y.o. car. In other words, if it looks good from 3 feet I'll be happy.

Any suggestions for how I can bring back the surface to look close to original?

Thanks!!

Pictures attached. (And yes, it is that shiny.)

P.S. I'm new here and was not able to figure out how to insert pictures into the text. I'll be working on learning how to do that.   

The original finish was smooth but with a specific look when new .  If you do not want to take it apart to bead blast and tumble for a authentic finish then I have a suggestion to try.  In the past I have knocked down the shine of a over polished piece of aluminum or diecast by spraying with Eagle One chrome wheel cleaner. A quick look on amazon and this comes up . https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-Chrome-Cleaner-Bundle-Microfiber/dp/B01N7J5CFL/ref=sr_1_4    . Napa sells it along with a lot of other auto parts stores. Spray it on for 20 to 30 seconds and rinse off . It is important to spray it on all over quickly otherwise you will not get a uniform finish and it will look splotchy. Rinse off with water and dry. See if that is the level of sheen looks better. You may have to play with the timing some.   The longer it stays on the duller it will get. This will not be the perfect solution but it should look closer to original then it is now.

[J_Speegle]

The original finish would be a mat but uneven look with freshly machined surfaces in other areas. I made a hardwood "lath" for lack of a better term where I can spin the housing on the shaft using a Dremel tool to add the machined surfaces after the rest of the surface is where I want it to be. I've used a Pine-sol soak followed by the wheel cleaner as Bob G mentions above

Earlier thread on the same subject. New examples are 67 and 68 versions

https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=13109.msg127671#msg127671

[Bossbill]

I agree on glass ball media -- not the crap from HF -- at  a very low pressure (25 psi or so). I use -AD size.
Do NOT get 100 grit anywhere near this!

[Christine_208]

Thanks guys!

Getting several answers so quick is great and much appreciated.

I'll keep you all posted with what I try and I'll be sure to report back on how it all goes.

BTW, what a great site. I've already had lots of fun exploring all the pages.

[Countrysquire]

I have vapor blasted a couple distributors (and several diecast valve covers) that have been polished and the finish comes out pretty good, though not quite as good as an unmolested piece.

[Christine_208]

That's not bad looking. For my purposes, that could be perfect.

Now I get to learn about vapor blasting. 

[Bossbill]

If you have have a media blaster replace the media with glass ball media, -AD or finer, and you can get a result close to vapor blasting. Start at 25 psi.

[jwc66k]

If you have have a media blaster replace the media with glass ball media, -AD or finer, and you can get a result close to vapor blasting. Start at 25 psi.

And AFTER you have removed everything, including bushings, from the housing. Do a test on the lower part of the housing.
Jim

[Bob Gaines]

And AFTER you have removed everything, including bushings, from the housing. Do a test on the lower part of the housing.
Jim

+1 .any kind of bead or vapor blasting is problematic on a distributor that is fully assembled. 

[rockhouse66]

I agree it needs to be disassembled, but I seal off the interior of the housing when I bead blast.  No real reason to remove the bushing(s) IMO.

[Countrysquire]

Yep, must be disassembled before blasting. I never pull the bushings unless they need to be replaced. I do put a rubber plug in each end to keep from accidentally hitting the bushings with media and flush the body thoroughly after blasting because the media WILL get in there. Plus, this gives you an opportunity to clean out the spiral oiling groove, which is almost always completely full of hard, baked oil residue.