Jeff,
I'm referencing your article in the library titled "Restoration Support 66 San Jose Unibody (undercarriage). I have several questions as I prepare my self for the details I'll need to pass along to my paint/body guy.
Q1: To reproduce the body dolly marks, can I rent a set of your attachments (8 total) from you?
Don't know where they are hidden away at the moment. Let me see if I can find them before discussing that first
Likely would cost the same to make up a set as pay even postage for the ones I made. Plans are in the Library
Q2: Seam Sealer applied to seams: Can you direct me to the light tan/off white self leveling sealer used on trunk lip, drip rail, A pillars, cowl pinch weld, door jamb areas?
Everyone is going to have their favorite for drip rails and such I've used 3M Firm and Fast in the past. Firewall to cowl pinch weld could be done with any of the chalking gun products also since there is additional thickness and pooling there and have seen many crack with age and big changes in temp
Q3: When you mention on page 2 "seams sprayed and sound deadener applied in the interior area of the car", are you referring to the product "Spectrum Sludge" referenced in your other article on page 2 of Concours How to's: Reproducing or Repairing of Factory Sound Deadener and Spray-on Sealer? Essentially what I'm asking is is "Spectrum Sludge" the today standard for sound deadener and seam sealer?
Everyone has their favorite. The Sludge has worked for many while other prefer the Lord Fusor and other products
Q4: Page 2, Section 2-Exterior body primed with red oxide: What is the difference (other than slight color change) between red epoxy primer sealer sprayed on the undercarriage vs red oxide primer? Your work makes a distinction here where you later mention "visible differences that can be seen on original paint cars".
Believe the exterior that would later be coated with paint was more of a primer than a primer sealer and it was normally a different shade or tint as well as it was a flatter (non-glossy) finish. For a 66 San Jose car it would typically be lighter in tone than some undercarriage red oxides and not a muddy brown like any original examples. More the Rustoleum look if I had to pick something that you might be familiar with
Q5: What are fastback simulated scoop fingers? Referenced on page 3, section 4.
See page #17 bottom right hand of the page
Q6: Does this document, specifically dealing with processes at San Jose plant, differ enough from the Metuchen and Dearborn plants that it couldn't be all encompassing?
Believe it would add to the confusion to mix all three plants. So that is the reason I choose to focus on one year and plant at a time since at each we can have three undercarriage colors from the firewall rearward, two from the firewall forward and two different typical sealant patterns at a since plant for a single year. Times that by all three plants you may be up to five different undercarriage colors, ........ you get the idea. Plus as this would mean an increased file size which slows up down load time and makes it more difficult to update and correct (some of these are in their 9th or greater version)
Just trying to keep it as simple as I can, specific as I can and neat as I can
Q7: Page 15 shows pictures of a sprayed adhesive on the firewall. What product/application currently on the market today would replicate this?
There is nothing I've found yet that reproduces the original look for that year and plant. Once I get a new shop up and start playing I've been talking about trying spray headliner/vinyl top adhesive with dry graphite added. But we'll have to wait and see
Q8: Page 17, top left picture shows an inner door masked off with white/light gray and blue paint. Is the white/light gray area of this door the same paint that was the "light gray surface primer" referenced earlier in the document when detailing the exterior body that was primed?