Author Topic: 1967 GT500 front disc, rear drum issues still  (Read 3579 times)

Offline 67350#1242

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Re: 1967 GT500 front disc, rear drum issues still
« Reply #15 on: April 08, 2021, 09:52:16 AM »
If it were my car I would measure the bore size of your master.  If anything other than one inch I would find the proper one inch bore master.   Whether concourse style or not is up to you, the most important would be proper size to work with the factory spec parts of your system. 

67 Coupe SJ 11/16/66
67 GT350 SJ 2/01/67

Offline kkupec02

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Re: 1967 GT500 front disc, rear drum issues still
« Reply #16 on: April 08, 2021, 11:32:38 AM »
ok. Thanks for the clarification. I thought that the Boss master cylinder that I have, since it had a part number on it, was a factory original for the Boss not a factory replacement. 
1967 GT500 Built 1/26/67 #817
1967 Corvette Roadster

Offline Bob Gaines

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Re: 1967 GT500 front disc, rear drum issues still
« Reply #17 on: April 08, 2021, 12:26:33 PM »
ok. Thanks for the clarification. I thought that the Boss master cylinder that I have, since it had a part number on it, was a factory original for the Boss not a factory replacement.
It is not a factory replacement . It did not go through the Ford factory or service department. The facts that your core does not have the details and look the same as original and since it does not have the Bendix trademark cast into the housing like all of the Ford assemblyline masters or even later Ford service replacement indicates it is not a Factory replacement. It is a aftermarket auto parts store type generic replacement.I hope that clarifies what it is and what it isn't.
Bob Gaines,Shelby enthusiast, Shelby collector , Shelby concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

Offline RoyceP

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1968 W code 427 Cougar XR-7 GTE Feb 23 Dearborn C6 / 3.50 open
1968 R code 428CJ Cougar XR-7 May 13 Dearborn C6 / 3.91 T - Lock

Offline kkupec02

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Re: 1967 GT500 front disc, rear drum issues still
« Reply #19 on: April 16, 2021, 04:19:13 PM »
I ordered the master cylinder from deadnutson as recommended. Since I have to take the hood and left hinge off, I should run a line to bypass the rebuilt distribution block and make sure that it is good as well. Is there a recommended 1967 GT500 distribution block like the original that I have? Also, I have a loose hinge. What should I look for to ascertain if it's original and worth fixing vs repro? Thanks. 
1967 GT500 Built 1/26/67 #817
1967 Corvette Roadster

Offline RoyceP

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Re: 1967 GT500 front disc, rear drum issues still
« Reply #20 on: April 16, 2021, 07:31:51 PM »
All of the repro hood hinges are really bad. There are folks who specialize in rebuilding and phosphating originals, I recommend that you go that route or find a better original. You will surely be disappointed in any of the repops.



I ordered the master cylinder from deadnutson as recommended. Since I have to take the hood and left hinge off, I should run a line to bypass the rebuilt distribution block and make sure that it is good as well. Is there a recommended 1967 GT500 distribution block like the original that I have? Also, I have a loose hinge. What should I look for to ascertain if it's original and worth fixing vs repro? Thanks.
1968 W code 427 Cougar XR-7 GTE Feb 23 Dearborn C6 / 3.50 open
1968 R code 428CJ Cougar XR-7 May 13 Dearborn C6 / 3.91 T - Lock

Offline Bob Gaines

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Re: 1967 GT500 front disc, rear drum issues still
« Reply #21 on: April 17, 2021, 12:47:18 AM »
I ordered the master cylinder from deadnutson as recommended. Since I have to take the hood and left hinge off, I should run a line to bypass the rebuilt distribution block and make sure that it is good as well. Is there a recommended 1967 GT500 distribution block like the original that I have? Also, I have a loose hinge. What should I look for to ascertain if it's original and worth fixing vs repro? Thanks.
NPD used to sell the distribution blocks and may have them still but now they say call instead of showing a price in the catalog. If buy other used ones or rebuild the ones you have confirm you have the right ones . There is a difference between 67 and most 68's and all of 69 and 70 .You can try penning the rivets used to hold the pieces together .I used a air hammer with a made up blunt attachment . I have never tried a hydraulic press but have heard of others that did .Those methods will sometimes tighten them up .When they rebuild them my understanding is all they do is re rivet them.
Bob Gaines,Shelby enthusiast, Shelby collector , Shelby concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby