Topic: exhaust manifold repair or replace

[fmr187]

The studs on my manifolds are in rough shape due to rust/corrosion. Should I try to replace the studs or just order replacements? How involved would it be to remove the old studs?

[Bob Gaines]

Frozen studs can be hard to extract. There are any number of you tube videos on how to successfully do it.

[J_Speegle]

Not sure what you mean by "ordering replacements"  To stick with being original you would want to find another that has the same engineering number and if you choose the same or close date code. I would give give replacing a stud a try because what do you have to loss  at this point

[jwc66k]

The studs on my manifolds are in rough shape due to rust/corrosion. Should I try to replace the studs or just order replacements? How involved would it be to remove the old studs?

Studs are available at AMK Products https://www.amkproducts.com/ B-12616 2 for $3.00, Ford P/N 380345-S2. There are other "stud" part numbers, but are difficult to find.
Get in the habit of listing your engine type, transmission type, accessories and other pertinent indoctrination when making a parts request.
An acetylene torch gets hot enough to remove frozen studs. Propane won't get hot enough. Use a couple of nuts, locked together, with an appropriate wrench, or a pair of vice grips to remove the studs when the manifold is very red and it's real hot.
Jim

[bgp429]

If using heat doesn't work drill them out. Have done it many times at work. Cut the stud off flush. Trick is using very sharp high quality bits and starting a pilot hole dead center. Continue increasing the bit size to the size required for a tap. Then carefully run a tap into the hole, it should peel the remaining stud material out.  A small pick can sometimes be used to peel some of the metal out. Don't force the tap, go in and out 1/4 turn or less. Use lots of lubricant on the drills and tap.

[CharlesTurner]

If using heat doesn't work drill them out. Have done it many times at work. Cut the stud off flush. Trick is using very sharp high quality bits and starting a pilot hole dead center. Continue increasing the bit size to the size required for a tap. Then carefully run a tap into the hole, it should peel the remaining stud material out.  A small pick can sometimes be used to peel some of the metal out. Don't force the tap, go in and out 1/4 turn or less. Use lots of lubricant on the drills and tap.

+1

Try heat first (use a stud extractor or double nut with a lock washer if no extractor).  If it won't budge, then I would do as mentioned above.  The key being to make the pilot hole perfectly in the middle.

[kb65]

if you do heat it be sure to warm the whole manifold and as soon as you are done bury it in some sand , speedy dry or cat litter cover it good so it cools slow. If it cools too fast the cast iron could crack. once buried walk awaw come back in an hour. if you did not here a pop you are good to go.

ken

[jwc66k]

If we're getting into details:
- do outside.
- clamp the manifold down with a couple of big "C" clamps to something solid. I used an outside workbench and kept the exhaust port about 8 inches from the bench top edge.
- you don't need to heat the entire manifold, about 2 to 3 inches around the stud should get cherry red.
- let it cool where it is.
- have a fire extinguisher and a bucket of water handy, but DO NOT use the water to cool the manifold. The water is for you. If you get burnt, get the burn wet, and keep it wet.
- wear welding gloves, welding goggles, long pants, shoes.
- be careful (that goes without saying)
I've done over a dozen small block sets in this method.
Jim

[fmr187]

Thanks for the suggestions. 50% success rate with the heat. 2 came out and 2 broke. Now to try drilling.