Author Topic: 1970 CJ starter cable routing  (Read 12700 times)

Offline Bob Gaines

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Re: 1970 CJ starter cable routing
« Reply #60 on: May 22, 2020, 11:52:45 AM »
Bob, yes I know the start is supposed to be all black except for the aluminum nose piece. I had the two shields and long bolts chemically cleaned and zinc plated as they had some rust, I painted the dome one, and was going to paint the ring shield after install because of the paper gasket under it and get all that at once. I just have not got around to it and it is temporarily installed now for mockup and the engine cam break-in and test run. The starter, smog tubing and other will be removed for final detailing and then re-installed before going into the car.
After reviewing your post I thought I should mention that the unit was painted as assembly and so the nose will have a overspray area around it's perimeter of the barrel and nose joining edge from the spray process of the back portion.
Bob Gaines,Shelby enthusiast, Shelby collector , Shelby concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

Offline 1970 Snake

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Re: 1970 CJ starter cable routing
« Reply #61 on: May 22, 2020, 01:04:41 PM »
Thanks Bob, yes I have seen that comment before also and as much as its correct I am not trying to build a 100% concours correct trailer queen, as my intent has always been to build a really nice show and shine "driver", that looks pretty much correct but will withstand the rigors of driving and reduce my cleaning maintenance.

Example, the bellhousing plate the starter is mounted to and the motor mount brackets are powder coated to look like bare metal. The bolts, washers and nuts holding the motor mount brackets and NOS motor mounts are ceramic coated to replicate phosphate and oil, as are many other parts on the car that are supposed to be phosphate and oil. This is my first and last mustang and will this car ever see more than 5000 miles after completion or be driven in the rain intentionally, probably not, but this is how am building it.

Regarding the starter, I glass beaded the barrel, end cover and nose housing then painted it aluminum colour and replicated the red dot paint marking on the nose which will never be seen. The internals of the starter where in excellent condition as it was rebuilt just before I got the car in the late 80's. I painted both the mating faces of the barrel and the end cover so they where not bare metal and prone to rusting before I assembled them. The Bendix spring and cover, the band cover and long bolts where all zinc plated to remove any rust and coat the inside facing of those parts to help prevent rusting in the future. I did all this rather than just assembling and painting the outside semi-gloss black and having the bare metal faces and other exposed to the driving elements.

So as I have indicated I will be painting the starters black exterior again before final engine installation but will I put some overspray on the nicely painted aluminum nose, we'll see, thanks again for you continue support and comments they are much appreciated, as I hope my input is also.

« Last Edit: May 22, 2020, 01:09:55 PM by 1970 Snake »
Dearborn Built Sept 4, 1969
1970 Mach1 428 CJ R-Code C6
Calypso Coral, White Deluxe Interior
dash tach, front bumperettes
Marti report one of one with delay wipers

Offline Bob Gaines

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Re: 1970 CJ starter cable routing
« Reply #62 on: May 22, 2020, 01:14:21 PM »
Thanks Bob, yes I have seen that comment before also and as much as its correct I am not trying to build a 100% concours correct trailer queen, as my intent has always been to build a really nice show and shine "driver", that looks pretty much correct but will withstand the rigors of driving and reduce my cleaning maintenance.

Example, the bellhousing plate the starter is mounted to and the motor mount brackets are powder coated to look like bare metal. The bolts, washers and nuts holding the motor mount brackets and NOS motor mounts are ceramic coated to replicate phosphate and oil, as are many other parts on the car that are supposed to be phosphate and oil. This is my first and last mustang and will this car ever see more than 5000 miles after completion or be driven in the rain intentionally, probably not, but this is how am building it.

Regarding the starter, I glass beaded the barrel, end cover and nose housing then painted it aluminum colour and replicated the red dot paint marking on the nose which will never be seen. The internals of the starter where in excellent condition as it was rebuilt just before I got the car in the late 80's. I painted both the mating faces of the barrel and the end cover so they where not bare metal and prone to rusting before I assembled them. The Bendix spring and cover, the band cover and long bolts where all zinc plated to remove any rust and coat the inside facing of those parts to help prevent rusting in the future. I did all this rather than just assembling and painting the outside semi-gloss black and having the bare metal faces and other exposed to the driving elements.

So as I have indicated I will be painting the starters black exterior again before final engine installation but will I put some overspray on the nicely painted aluminum nose, we'll see, thanks again for you continue support and comments they are much appreciated, as I hope my input is also.
Just in case you care given the other concours aspects on your engine build, FYI the oilpan plug and gasket were typically painted because they were installed prior to engine paint.
Bob Gaines,Shelby enthusiast, Shelby collector , Shelby concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

Offline 1970 Snake

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Re: 1970 CJ starter cable routing
« Reply #63 on: May 22, 2020, 01:27:16 PM »
Yes thanks Bob, I intentionally left the plug out and just put a fine thread bolt in during engine painting so I would get paint under the gasket area (NO bare metal), and had the plug zinc plated. I will may not paint them, but will definitely not do that until after all the engine break-in, test running and oil changes are completed.
Dearborn Built Sept 4, 1969
1970 Mach1 428 CJ R-Code C6
Calypso Coral, White Deluxe Interior
dash tach, front bumperettes
Marti report one of one with delay wipers

Offline Bob Gaines

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Re: 1970 CJ starter cable routing
« Reply #64 on: May 22, 2020, 01:36:43 PM »
Yes thanks Bob, I intentionally left the plug out and just put a fine thread bolt in during engine painting so I would get paint under the gasket area (NO bare metal), and had the plug zinc plated. I will may not paint them, but will definitely not do that until after all the engine break-in, test running and oil changes are completed.
Maybe you are not aware but the plating will degrade much faster then the paint to the elements in this instance given your mandate of "looks pretty much correct but will withstand the rigors of driving and reduce my cleaning maintenance." . ;)
Bob Gaines,Shelby enthusiast, Shelby collector , Shelby concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

Offline 1970 Snake

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Re: 1970 CJ starter cable routing
« Reply #65 on: May 22, 2020, 01:46:55 PM »
Yes probably correct, but paint does chip easily on bolts and is much more work to repair where the plug can be easily re-plated if needed. I will probably paint it though. thanks
« Last Edit: May 22, 2020, 02:13:37 PM by 1970 Snake »
Dearborn Built Sept 4, 1969
1970 Mach1 428 CJ R-Code C6
Calypso Coral, White Deluxe Interior
dash tach, front bumperettes
Marti report one of one with delay wipers

Offline Bob Gaines

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Re: 1970 CJ starter cable routing
« Reply #66 on: May 22, 2020, 03:17:10 PM »
Yes probably correct, but paint does chip easily on bolts and is much more work to repair where the plug can be easily re-plated if needed. I will probably paint it though. thanks
A chipped oil pan bolt can be prepared and painted in place without removing oil. This can be done in a very narrow time frame . A oilpan bolt that is plated on the other hand needs more attention and has to have the oil pan drained ,bolt taken out ,stripped of finish and plated before being returned to service in the oilpan in a much more extended and labor intensive time frame. Regardless if you choose to paint your bolt be sure to rough up /scuff surface
 of the plated bolt prior to painting as paint does not stick well to a smooth shiny plated surface and will chip easily if painted over plating with no other preparation.Original oil pan bolts are bare steel because they were typically painted.
Bob Gaines,Shelby enthusiast, Shelby collector , Shelby concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

Offline 1970 Snake

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Re: 1970 CJ starter cable routing
« Reply #67 on: May 22, 2020, 05:15:05 PM »
Some good points Thanks
Dearborn Built Sept 4, 1969
1970 Mach1 428 CJ R-Code C6
Calypso Coral, White Deluxe Interior
dash tach, front bumperettes
Marti report one of one with delay wipers

Offline Bob Gaines

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Re: 1970 CJ starter cable routing
« Reply #68 on: May 22, 2020, 05:17:29 PM »
Some good points Thanks
Your welcome just trying to help.
Bob Gaines,Shelby enthusiast, Shelby collector , Shelby concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

Offline 1970 Snake

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Re: 1970 CJ starter cable routing
« Reply #69 on: May 22, 2020, 05:34:41 PM »
Yes I know, and don't get me wrong I appreciated it.
Dearborn Built Sept 4, 1969
1970 Mach1 428 CJ R-Code C6
Calypso Coral, White Deluxe Interior
dash tach, front bumperettes
Marti report one of one with delay wipers