Topic: Roof Nightmare Decision

[tobkob]

Sorry, My bad

TOB

[cobrajet_carl]

Just out of curiosity, why do the coupes have a center roof brace but the fastbacks do not? I have seen a lot of oil canning on fastbacks but I can't recall it ever on a coupe.

[J_Speegle]

Just out of curiosity, why do the coupes have a center roof brace but the fastbacks do not?.....................

Likely due to the shorter run distance between the windshield opening and the rear window opening. 

[djburton]

Dressen's Body Shop,Tyler Mn  shop 507 247 3918    Jack   507 530 6725
 These guys have an unbelievable Mustang salvage yard.  Jack is the real deal. Specializing in 64 1/2-73 Mustangs. I have bought a lot of parts from them. He will help you. Haven't been there in a while but definitely worth a shot.

[Coralsnake]

Does anyone know if the C5ZZ roof is 65/66 only?

Ihave an NOS one

[67gtasanjose]

Just out of curiosity, why do the coupes have a center roof brace but the fastbacks do not? I have seen a lot of oil canning on fastbacks but I can't recall it ever on a coupe.

Likely due to the shorter run distance between the windshield opening and the rear window opening. 

-AND/OR-
To mount the dome light.

[Angela]

UPDATE:
I made a template for the front and rear roof edges using 1/8" hardi-board. I then measured, measured again, photographed and video recorded these measurements on the car. Next, I drilled out ~140 spot welds thus far. More work to go, yet I have questions:

(1) Can I save the drip rails or must they be removed with the original roof skin? I drilled out the spot welds from the top of the drip rails, hoping to remove the roof skin from the rails and leave the rails welded to the roof braces. However, the more I stare at this, the less convinced I am that leaving the original rails is possible.

(2) Measuring the roof skin in several different places (with calipers), I see 0.033" - 0.038", which appears to be 20 gauge steel. Is this what you guys would expect for 1970?

(3) According to the email I received from Dynacorn, their roof skin is 16 gauge (0.059").  According to the tech I spoke with at NPD, their "APX Auto" brand roof skin is 18 Gauge (0.048"). Which one do you guys recommend? Both appear to be thicker than the original (which surprises me). I have a lot of experience with NPD and know that if it arrives damaged, they'll take care of it. However, I've never heard of "APX Auto"...


djburton: Thanks for the tip about the salvage yard in Tyler.... I'll give them a call as well.
Thanks guys

[jwc66k]

(1) Can I save the drip rails or must they be removed with the original roof skin?

Do you have a copy of the "1970 Mustang Weld and Sealant Assembly Manual"? My 64-65 Manual shows the individual component parts as assembled at the factory. I assume the 70 Manual will show the same.
Jim

[Angela]

I do have the weld manual and I'll spend some time studying that..... good advice, thanks!

FYI, I now have caliper measurements of both Dynacorn and NPD roof skins:
Dynacorn = 0.051" (measured after removing weld-thru-primer)
NPD = 0.037" (includes EDP primer)

I'm still making calls looking for an OEM roof, yet haven't decided which path I'll pursue.

If anyone has more advice regarding leaving or removing the drip rails, I'd appreciate it. Thank you!

[1969 Cale II]

Where in Mn?, I live near St. Paul. If close, need help?

[Angela]

Hey guys, what product do you recommend as seam sealer between the roof panel and the roof bracing directly beneath the roof panel? 

I found two medium sized globs of some sort of sealer on each side of the car, above the door glass area. The sealer was placed outside of the area which was spot welded.

I assume I should be putting some sort of sealer in this area, but don't know what I should use. I typically use 3M products.

[1967 eight barrel]

3M fast n firm?

[Angela]

Thanks for the input! It looks like 3M fast-n-firm adheres only to primed surfaces, which means I'd have to mix and apply some epoxy primer to these areas. I'd have to mask off the areas where I'd be spot welding.
Is there a similar sealant which also applies to bare metal, which you guys would recommend? It looks like 3M's "FlexiClear" seam sealer will adhere to bare metal, yet I don't think it's best suited for this application.
Suggestions?