Topic: Installing freeze plug while engine in Mustang

[9TO2Hknot4cell]

Has anyone decided to just knock out an "easy to access" freeze plug to flush the engine block then replace the freeze plug? 

Seems that would work better flushing the block besides going through all the mess of flush and fill.

Any help and information is appreciated.

[J_Speegle]

Has anyone decided to just knock out an "easy to access" freeze plug to flush the engine block then replace the freeze plug? 

Not I

Then you get the fun of trying to get a good angle to drive them back in and touch up the paint so it looks untouched.

Just some considerations

[bgp429]

Believe it or not there is a tool made to install freeze plugs. Tool works slightly better than a socket and extension.  Seems like excessive work for just a flush. Freeze plugs can be installed in the car if there is access, however buy 2 or 3 for each plug removed. The first one will likely be ruined.

https://www.autozone.com/cutting-drilling-scraping-and-splitting-hand-tools/freeze-plug-tool/oem-master-freeze-plug-installation-tool-kit/965837_0_0

[Brian Conway]

Why not just remove the thermostat housing and lower radiator hose.  Stick a garden hose in the hole of your choice and flush away.  Brian

[9TO2Hknot4cell]

Yes, I've already removed the t-stat. And I even thought of the flush with engine off?  Is that what you're talking about Brian? 

With engine off? lol, I'd say since you're saying stick in the hole of my choice.  Will that get all corners of the block?

I have the Prestone flush T installed in the heater hose.  Ready to flush with engine running if necessary, just concerned that will mess up my water pump.

Any help appreciated !!

[Brian Conway]

I have flushed my engine, not running, the way described.    Brian.

[9TO2Hknot4cell]

Sorry, don't get on here that much.

Do I need to somehow use a silicon/marvel mystery oil , or something to make sure water pump bearings don't seize up?  Maybe mix it with water as its running through block??

The engine was rebuilt back in 2009 and I haven't flushed it yet.  It's drove at least 700-800 miles a year. I Drive it to work quite a bit.

[J_Speegle]

If you feel a need to add a lubricant for the water pump there are specific products that are made just for that and often sold under the titles/label of water pump lubricant they are compatible with antifreeze and water unlike some of the shade tree products

[bgp429]

Do not use any type of oil based "additive", as said above there are products for that. Petroleum [or in other words oil] will destroy all the rubber hoses from the inside. Once the oil is in there it is nearly impossible to get out.

Something to consider is PH test strips. Many times a flush isn't necessary.

http://www.radstrips.com/


A quick test is using a digital volt meter.  Put one end in the coolant at the radiator and ground the other lead on the block. Engine not running. If there is less than .4 volt and the coolant appears clean the additive package is still working.

[9TO2Hknot4cell]

No, the color of my coolant is dark, almost black. Yea, it's time for a flush.

I was trying to figure out how to keep the water pump from grinding to a halt by flushing plain water through the motor. I have seen/heard this happening before with motors just having a few thousand miles on it with new water pumps.

I'll see what the parts house has in water pump lube to keep the water pump functioning.

[67350#1242]

Water or antifreeze doesn't reach the bearings of a properly working water pump.  There is an inner seal that prevents this.  Antifreeze acts as a lubricant for the seal to prevent premature wear.  At any rate the small amount of time you will be flushing at idle wouldn't likely cause a problem here, with fresh antifreeze added afterwards.

[bgp429]

Agree, I have been a line tech for 30 years. Never had a water pump failure from flushing. Have literally done hundreds of flushes. If you heard of a pump failure from this operation my first thought is the pump was bad before the work started.